Recent Posts

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1
Technical / Re: clutch plate dimensions
« Last post by Speedsterautoshift on 25 May 2019, 20:36  »
Guys, you are both right, I had a very quick look underneath before we left and could see that a little bit of room was left in the adjustment department and the locknut was not even anywhere near where it should have been in other words it wasn't locked at all. As I said to the garage owner, there is only a quarter of the thickness of a human hair in difference between the relined clutch and the one that another member of this forum so kindly measured for me. So I think I'll be able to move it a bit further away from the driven plate or whatever I want to call it.  As for the exact type of carb and the dizzy. I am 600 odd miles away from the problem right now so it will just have to lie fallow for the moment.

Will have to find this "Crasher" bloke. Knowing my luck he'll be at the opposite end of the country.

I am more or less resigned to doing this job myself in the end.  Hate it when I give a job to professionals and this is what happens, but sadly this has happened to me so many times.  You should see the mess a French bloke made of wallpapering our hall and stairs in our French house while we were away!

Will contact you all again when I get back.  thanks ever so for thinking of me and keeping me going.
2
Technical / Re: Engine/trans removal as one unit
« Last post by LaLa69 on 24 May 2019, 12:21  »
Lee,

Thank you for the information.  When I removed the old one, it was still pliable and in good condition.  I checked the TC surfaces and they are smooth.  I installed a new seal, peened it, and reinstalled the engine.  Filled the fluids and fired it up and lo and behold...a drip, drip, drip.

I am so frustrated with this.  Ive gone through 4 seals, three TCs (had one rebuilt), three flex plates, two sets of hoses and tons of gaskets, blood, sweat and cussin.  Im about ready to let someone else take "enjoy" this car.

Any possible suggestions?

Tim
3
Technical / Re: Clutch Arm Bushes source
« Last post by volkenstein on 16 May 2019, 05:36  »
Mate,
       Bad news, sorry - those bushes are on the trans itself, which I don't have anymore.
I have EKTA fiche somewhere (that'll take some finding) - so when I find them, hopefully they'll have sizes.

Regards
Volkenstein
4
Technical / Re: Aftermarket Shifter?
« Last post by 68autobug on 13 May 2019, 02:11  »
You cannot not have the top housing that holds the gearshifter in place....  from the previous post , someone did hive the reverse lockout plate missing.  the reverse lockout plate can be very difficult to find, as if the car is changed to manual, most times the reverse lockout plate and the autostick shifter are used with the manual.  you can tell by the autostick shifter rod, which I believe they would just tighten up so it didn't move in the points...


Lee



5
Technical / Re: Aftermarket Shifter?
« Last post by sb001 on 12 May 2019, 03:14  »
I know, this is an old topic, but nobody mentioned some people 3d print the manual quick shift adapters.

So, theoretically, it would be possible.

This is a relevant topic for me.  Recently, I discovered that herbie is totally missing his shifter plate after issues shifting and also missing range 1.

He now misses range 2, but not range 1 or l or R.

I checked under the seat, and that looked ok.

Kyle

Kyle,
are you missing the actual reverse lockout plate, or the UPPER shift plate, or both?
I was missing Range 1 a few weeks back and discovered my UPPER shift plate (red arrow below) was loose while my reverse lockout plate (lower down) was fine:



So if you have your lockout plate but are still missing the upper plate or if it is out of position this could cause your issue.
6
Technical / Re: The weirdest autostick issue ever encountered....
« Last post by 68autobug on 11 May 2019, 09:02  »

Yes, it can be as simple as cleaning contacts... I have resoldered Mine on the control valve...plus I do not use a fuse in the engine compartment..I use a fuse under the bonnet... it is much cleaner under there.... I used to clean all My fuses all the time in the fusebox along with the tabs in the fusebox until I installed circuit breakers...  I did install a new narva fusebox but just connected everything thru the circuit breakers....

LEE
7
Technical / Re: Aftermarket Shifter?
« Last post by 68autobug on 11 May 2019, 08:57  »

The autostick reverse lockout plate is different to the manual version...  I have never heard of anyone not having a lock out plate at all.... or of anyone using an aftermarket shifter or a short shifter...

LEE

8
Technical / Re: Aftermarket Shifter?
« Last post by itskyle on 11 May 2019, 05:50  »
I know, this is an old topic, but nobody mentioned some people 3d print the manual quick shift adapters.

So, theoretically, it would be possible.

This is a relevant topic for me.  Recently, I discovered that herbie is totally missing his shifter plate after issues shifting and also missing range 1.

He now misses range 2, but not range 1 or l or R.

I checked under the seat, and that looked ok.

Kyle
9
Technical / Re: Engine/trans removal as one unit
« Last post by 68autobug on 11 May 2019, 04:06  »
The torque converter seal MUST be renewed every time  the torque converter is moved... as when the engine is taken out..
If You have only just recently fitted a new torque converter seal, then this doesn't apply.  I believe what happens is the lip of the seal goes hard and is no longer flexible so when the torque converter is moved only slightly, the seal lip is moved... and because it has gone hard, it is no longer flexible.... and leaks.... and always pein the seal in 3-4 spots so it cannot come off... and don't forget to lubricate the new seal with a bit of ATF [on Your finger] a couple of drops will do, so it isn't a dry seal lip and a dry shaft rubbing together....

LEE in Australia

10
Technical / Re: Engine/trans removal as one unit
« Last post by LaLa69 on 10 May 2019, 13:38  »
The reason I ask is the fact that I have had so many issue with the transmission/torque converter seal leaking after installation. 

My thought was to connect them out of the vehicle, start it up and check for leaks.  Then, it would be easier to repair without going through the machinations of removing the engine again (but by this time, Ive become an expert).


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