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Technical / Re: 69 AS beetle sending smoke signals...
« Last post by LaLa69 on Today at 20:51 »
Holy dollar signs, Batman!  Those aren't cheap!.  I was able to get all of the passages cleared, repaired the return atf hose, and installed a new transfer seal from evwparts.  I also put a freshly welded flex plate on as well.  Put it all together, drove around a bit and it was good.  No leaks and shifted like it should.

So, we decided to take it to a friend's wedding that evening.  Did OK but I noticed an atf trail when we went slowly.  Not cool.  Later, on the way home, I checked the atf fluid and it was low.  Filled, drove a ways and it started sending smoke signals.  Pulled into a wally, bought a 5qt jug of atf, filled it again, and be rely made the 11 miles home. (Smoking on and off all the way).  Parked it an this am it looked like murder had taken place.  Most, if not all the atf was on the ground and in the gutter. 

So, it's been in and out at least 5 times in the last year.  The seal was new a year ago and didn't last.  Now this "new" seal has failed also.  This is the gold and black one from  I'm so mad at this thing, I'm ready to sell it or change it to a manual.  Any suggestions, comments or insights are welcome.

Technical / Re: 69 AS beetle sending smoke signals...
« Last post by sb001 on 20 September 2017, 23:21  »
There is no check valve I am aware of in that top hose fitting, just a banjo style fitting connecting it to the bell housing "tunnel" where the ATF goes through. But I could be wrong.

I pulled my old torque converter seal awhile back without any special tools, I believe I just used a small flathead screwdriver tapping very lightly around the edge of the seal to start it loose. If yours is peened around the edge though you would probably have to flatten those peen marks back out.

I am sure there are places around that can supply a good quality replacement hose but I am unsure of the size, actual material etc. If you want actual original vw ATF hose you can find good used here ( a little pricey though):

Good luck let us know how it goes.
Technical / Re: CAN'T GET ANY GEAR.
« Last post by daveyh on 20 September 2017, 17:23  »
In answer to Lee's post of 16/05/17, I did fix the car! After a lot of tweaking and adjustment to no effect I obtained a Control valve. I bolted it on, fitted the wires and pipes. The VW fired up and shifted into gear without hesitation. The new control valve solved everything. I don't know whether the old solenoid or the the old control valve itself was faulty. Thanks for the advice.
Technical / Re: 69 AS beetle sending smoke signals...
« Last post by LaLa69 on 17 September 2017, 15:05  »
We pulled the engine (again) and the torque converter/flexplate bolts gave me a fit.  Three of the flexplate nuts decided to free themselves, so the bolt would just spin.  After some cutting and grinding, the bolts let go and we could see what was going on with the trans. 

I pulled the tc and noticed immediately that there was no gush of fluid.  Then, when I satin on the bench, I noticed no fluid in the impeller intake.  Bad scene for sure.  Inspection of the tc seal showed it was toast...crunchy and not flexible.  That was a new seal! 

Inspection of the hoses revealed deterioration of the soft hoses.  I blew out all the lines with air and blew the passages going to the tc on the trans.  The lower passage blew through to the tc but the upper one did nothing.  Is there a check valve in the top orafice?  Meanwhile, the lines felt spongy, so I gave them a little flex test and snap.  Now I need new hoses.  Yea!  The fittings are different, so is there a place to get new or should a place that makes hoses be able to reuse the ends?

So, looks like another flexplate, tc seal, tc bolts and and soft hoses are needed to get the beast rolling again.  I have an extra flex plate, so I tack welded the nuts so they won't spin. 

I did find another handful of black pellets.  I hope that it's cleared out now. 

The last time I replaced the seal, the ran was out and apart.  Should I use a gear puller with it in the car? 

Parts / Whole autostick assembly for sale - converting to manual
« Last post by Black69Auto on 16 September 2017, 15:36  »
I have decided to convert my car to a manual and am selling everything. It has always run great but I have always wanted a manual and love the car. I have owned it since 1989, so I know it prety well. All parts are available at this point except for the script. It is posted on the Samba at this link.....

Or please contact me at with any questions or for more info. I can remove switches etc from trans if needed. I just want to make sure it all goes to good use.

Lee I am sad to hear that you are thinking of selling your AS. I wish you were in Turkey. ı would buy your car with no hesitation,,, ı hope somebody dedicated to 2 pedals buys
best wishes,
I do remember driving early beetles in strong winds and it was a job to keep them going straight, so when there are strong winds [which we have had now for many weeks - up to 50 kmh] but My Beetle handles and rides very good.... It would be perfect in strong gusty winds once I put the anti roll bar back on the front.... lol..
I had a steel pipe in the ground to hold one of My double gates open, but drove over it many years ago, breaking the anti roll bar.... I replaced the steel pipe with a large rock.... and i bought new rubber mounts for the anti roll bar plus stainless steel clamps with allen key bolts {I think?] but I haven't been able to fit the new clamps on.... maybe I will have to use the original type of roll bar clamps...??  My Wife drove My Beetle yesterday 30 klms and return, with a large crack in the windshield from a stone.... I fitted a new laminated windscreen in 2005 as I don't like the shatter type safety glass that was originally fitted...  I Can remember having a few of those break and the total windshield glass going all over Me.... When driving about 100KMH and the windshield breaking from a stone usually from another vehicle going in the opposite direction,  the wind blows the Glass all over the driver and passenger, which resulted in a lot of tiny glass cuts on My face and forehead and a bit of blood tickling down.... Actually, it was worse when the windshield shattered as You could SEE Nothing until you were covered in glass... Back then our highways were narrow two lanes and very windy with lots of corners....
Laminated windscreens were a godsend.... but only legal with seat belts...

LEE  in Australia
Technical / Re: 69 AS beetle sending smoke signals...
« Last post by sb001 on 09 September 2017, 01:52  »
This one is tough to diagnose.
Skimming through the Bentley autostick troubleshooting chart, one thing that caught my eye was the "clutch slips at full throttle, not just after shifting" symptom. if this sounds like what is going on with your car, a possible cause is oil or ATF on the flex plate due to leak or leaks. So I am wondering, with the sluggish response, and now the smoke coming out, if either:

a) your main seal has blown a leak and has gotten on the clutch facings of the drive plate, causing it to slip, or

b) one of your ATF lines has developed a crack causing it to leak, or oyur torque converter somehow developed a crack or leak.

One or both of these fluids being on the clutch facings on the drive plate may explain the slippage and sluggish response. There is another item in the troubleshooting chart (#11) that describes the symptom of "poor acceleration despite good engine output." In this case it says the torque converter is faulty and should be replaced.

In either case I'm afraid you may be due for an engine pull to fully check everything.

P.S. I have the Bentley autostick section (with the troubleshooting chart) in PDF format on my computer, if you would like me to send it to you just message me your email address- it may help for you to read it to help solve the issue.
Technical / 69 AS beetle sending smoke signals...
« Last post by LaLa69 on 08 September 2017, 05:18  »
We were taking our 69 AS for a ride yesterday and we noticed a smell after a few miles.  It was a petroleum burning smell but not too strong.  We pulled over and looked around but found no leaks, so we continued on.  A few more miles up the road, white smoke started rolling out from under.  We pulled over and it looked like there was a leak near the torque converter.  There was also fluid on the shelf under the ATF fill.  The oil and atf levels were good.  We shut her off, called AAA and towed her home.  She has sat there since last night.

Some things to note:  We took her out Sunday and she ran great.  Shifted well, decent acceleration, and was a great ride.  Monday evening, we took her out "Pokemon hunting" and I noticed that she was a little sluggish.  I would accelerate, the engine revs would go up, and then if I lifted a bit to cruise, the rpms would go down, as if something was slipping.  It tested this a few times in all gears.  Same result was noted, so a quick check of the ATF and it was good.  I also noted the same "slipping" before we sent our smoke signals.  When I went to move her to a safer place, she didnt want to move much, even in low. 

Could something have caused a pluggage in the ATF system making the ATF spew out of the cap and starving the TC?  Is there a good fluid to flush the atf system with to remove deposits other than more ATF and would be safe for the pump and seals? 

She starts and runs, but I havent tried to move her since we got her home last night.  Any suggestions or comments are appreciated.

Thank you!


Parts / Re: Neutral Safety Switch
« Last post by 67vetteal on 08 September 2017, 04:26  »
I hear you Kyle. I happen to really like my Auto Stick and have no fear of any repair that may come along. I am stocking various parts for anything that may come along. My car is a Cabriolet and that makes it even more unique. Thanks for the reply.  Al W.
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