Recent Posts

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10
Vehicles / Re: 1974 Beetle for sale in NYC Photos
« Last post by 74vbug on 17 November 2019, 16:23  »
I tried but cannot get photos to upload.
Vehicles / 1974 Beetle for sale in NYC Photos
« Last post by 74vbug on 17 November 2019, 16:20  »
Attached are photos for 1974 Beetle Autostick for sale in NYC.
Vehicles / 1974 Beetle Autostick For Sale in New York City
« Last post by 74vbug on 17 November 2019, 05:57  »
1974 Autostick Beetle. I bought the Bug in May 0f 1999 for my daughter and completed body off restoration in Spring of 2004 with new heater channels and pan floors.
Last week the head plate & Napoleon hat was replaced (by VW only shop in New Jersey).

Daughter is now living five hours away from us,married with two children, and the car has been rarely used.  I believe there is less that 4000 miles on the Brazilian built engine block that I installed in Spring of 2004 along with a new clutch in the three speed transmission.

Other items:
All transmission vacuum hoses replaced withe proper wire core hoses.
Optima Absorbed Glass Mat battery so it won't rot out the floor.
Ford starter solenoid so no "hot start" problems
Canadian manufactured heavy duty Spectra Premium gas tank
Pertronix D182504 Ignitor II Distributor and Coil
Ceramic coated muffler
Crutchfield radio installed, proper fit for this dash

In 2011 all window glass handles, signal lights, etc. and fenders pulled for $3000 modern clear coat paint job.

Included is a used, spare Autostick Transmission.

What it needs:
Electric washer reservoir and pump included needs to be installed.
Original dash cover with small tare but not horrible looking.
Spare tire is dry rotted
Radio needs new better speakers

    Asking $12,700. Have invested much more.  Will consider all offers.  Prefer not to sell vehicle by photos only, prefer buyer who will come and inspect the Bug or have it inspected. I have found it impossible to upload photos so if you are interested I will email pics.  It is light blue color and looks like new.

Also have For Sale separately used 4-speed manual transmission conversion for this car: clutch and brake pedal set,   shift rod, clutch, pressure plate, clutch cable and shifter, regular non-autostick oil pump.

Technical Information / Re: Choke Heating Element Configuration
« Last post by volkenstein on 14 November 2019, 02:43  »
           Pretty much working as designed. You will notice (*should* :) ) that when cold, if you cycle the throttle, the throttle positioner is actually riding on one of the cam steps. As the car warm's up - you can blip the throttle and  the TP will move according to the cars heat/throttle element etc. What you are experiencing would be considered "normal" - the car will run faster as you HAVE NOT blipped the throttle to reposition the cam. When you DO may/may not hit another step on that cam....what I recommend you have a look at it is when the beast is fully are OFF the cam steps, and the choke is FULLY open - ditto  your flaps - fully OPEN (assumng you have a working standard thermostat). I'll have a hunt round the interweb to see what a 30 Pict 3 has fitted as most of my experience is 34 Pict 3 based..

Technical / Re: Gear shift rod
« Last post by Willyb on 13 November 2019, 01:11  »
The bolt and nut was laying in the tunnel as well. Guess someone didnít put it back on and just left it laying in tunnel.
Technical / Re: Gear shift rod
« Last post by Willyb on 13 November 2019, 01:09  »
It is the coupler that holds the spring. I was thinking it held the shift rod together. Thanks.
Technical / Re: Gear shift rod
« Last post by volkenstein on 12 November 2019, 04:53  »
        All VW's could be classified as two piece rods. Main Rod + coupler. A/S Main Rods (IIRC) are.......shorter?. There is also supposed to be a spring
which keeps it pulled over to one side. Now..theoretically - you undo the coupler and it is supposed to stay on the GB shaft. Sounds like someone got overeager or undid the wrong thing. So - in your hand (assuming Main Rod removal has been done) you have a Main Rod, and lying in the tunnel you should have the shift coupler. The gearbox should just have it's 12mm ish rod exposed....? Unless things have gotten out of hand and you have half a coupler in the tunnel and the other half on the GB.......where is the bolt & nut that links them together:)....

I love blind diagnosis :-X....

Technical / Gear shift rod
« Last post by Willyb on 12 November 2019, 02:51  »
Hello. Does anyone know if an autostick gearshift rod is in 2 pieces. I have a coupler with a big screw through it lying at the back of tunnel. Thanks
    You have to fix both the outer shell and internal impellor to prevent a certain amount of "touching" as they are fairly close machined. So, onto the first q. Yeah - just keep your ATF topped up. Check it regularly. With a half or less full converter - expect aeration and subsequent "bleeding" off of air bubbles for a while at least.

Technical Information / Choke Heating Element Configuration
« Last post by Achilles on 07 November 2019, 16:30  »
Shot in the dark here.
Is there any difference in config of the choke heating element on Auto vs. Manual cars?
My rig is 1970 bone stock single port autostick Ghia with the original Solex 30 PICT 3. I overhauled that carb, and think I got it right but mmm y'know first time and all.

When rebuilding got a good quality replacement choke heating element from they have been good to us. Reason for replacement....later.
There is no option for an 'auto stick' version of element, as far as I can tell. So mushed on.

On this new element, the location of the coil hook relative to (+)ve terminal on the housing is a bit different than on the original. The alignment mark on the element housing is therefore in a different location. When installing the element, though, all is well. Aligned the mark on the element with the middle mark on the carb, or as per Rob & Dave's. This gets the choke butterfly to just closed position. So, the hook on the coil element is engaging the arm on the choke butterfly / cam shaft just fine.

The real reason for asking is that I seem to have done something quite wrong, that's why I got a replacement choke element. When the car warms up (which it does smoothly) the choke butterfly never seems to open of its' own accord, thereby dropping engine RPMs as it should. I have to kick down on the accelerator to get the cam to 'release' and drop the RPMs. From there it's smooth sailing, all things considered. This is the case regardless of whether the original or the new choke element is installed.

Any help is appreciated.
Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10