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Technical / Re: Modifications to an autostick
« Last post by Eviloval on 20 November 2017, 07:34  »
I've been searching for 75 FI autostick pics or information/manuals whatever I can dig up.  I did find one that appears alot different than what I've seen so far.  The control valve had a T on one of the lines (I can post it if needed).  But I didn't see a small line to get the vacuum signal....just 3 vacuum lines.  It would be great if there was a resource for the FI autosticks.  The pic I found almost looks like a 75 had a whole different control valve similar to the Porsche sportomatic.  The problem being that I don't want it to draw vacuum and mess up FI's map.  Its something I'll research and try to see if there is a way to make it work.  Its something that exists...just rare, I just got to keep looking to find that information.

In regards to the shifter....I've been messing with designs using my Scat dragfast as the backbone.  So, far I've got 2 different designs and one sort of outside the box idea.  One has the stock contact towards the shift knob.  The contact with the wire would stay on the shifter, the other side of it would be a cut off section of an autostick top contact and would be threaded to the shift knob.  I'd create an aluminum sleeve to hide it all that would allow some adjustment.  The shifter body would have to be hollow to allow for the wire to pass thru.  I'm thinking for the prototype as a 2pc body with the later one being a single pc unit with a hole from top to bottom.  The other idea has it at the bottom (like the standard autostick shifter) but compacted.  Obviously there would be less adjustment, but how much adjustment do you really need with the stock setup?  Anyways, since most shifters have a wider base than the top this could hide the contact a hell of alot better (especially under a leather boot).  I don't want to go with a switch since it takes away from how an autostick shifter works.  I've also been researching the Porsche sportomatic shifter since it has a set of contacts that wrap around the shifter.  The way it works is that the shifter appears to be slightly hinged at a point and when you change gears it activates the set of contacts.  Once you take your hand off the shifter it pushes away from the contacts and the clutch engages.  If I went this route then you could technically use any shifter but you would have to cut it at a point and have it hinged (look up a sportomatic shifter to see what I'm talking about).  Obviously this is a design exercise since I don't want this to be a hack job.  I'm looking at pretty much making a custom shifter using the stock contact.  And while I've got the preliminary design I just have to put it in CAD and get a metal guy (I've got one lined up) to machine the new shifter and sleeve.  My design so far takes from a black mamba shifter since it has a bit of substance to it.  Hopefully in the next week or 2 I'll be doing just that.

You do realize this whole thing is part of the major turn off about an autostick.  No one has really spent the time making these cars work with all the standard mods for 4-speed cars.  I can't tell you how many topics I've run into about someone asking about running dual carbs and being told its not worth it.  Or, trying to get more power out of an autostick...just to be told once again its not worth it.  This is why people convert these cars to 4-speed setups...for the sake of simplicity.  10 years ago I would of converted mine without even driving it.  But, after driving it....even though its not perfect (very far from it), its got potential to be a great car that's perfect for cruising.  Its not a rocketship but I'm ok with that since I've got one of those and its no fun to drive in bumper to bumper traffic.  But I digress, I definitely haven't seen anyone try to FI an autostick car.  Now, just to make a point the Porsche sportomatic not only had dual carbs...but it also had fuel injection.  If you look up a sportomatic you will see 2 things that strike you as something similar or that you want to do.  1st one being that it has a similar setup with our cars.  It has a control valve almost identical to ours, vac tank, ATF tank, clutch and a torque converter.  The ATF pump is belt driven instead of piggie backed to the oil pump.  But it also has a 905 4-speed transmission which looks identical (short of the vacuum servo...which BTW looks just like ours) to the standard 901 5 speed transmission.  And, a 901 5-speed transmission can be shoehorned into our cars either with custom parts if your good at welding or with a kit that bug@5speed produces that allows it to be a bolt in.  This transmission can handle 150 horses (I'm sure they could handle more) if you get the early ones and up to 200 for the later ones (but those are the 925 series transmissions and they're only 3 speeds).  Point being, if you want these cars to stay an autostick someone has to think outside of the box on somethings and make it interesting for someone to want to keep it an autostick.
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Technical / Re: 69 AS beetle sending smoke signals...
« Last post by 68autobug on 20 November 2017, 06:09  »
The only down side I can see with the ATF seals is that they run in the same spot so the shaft may be slightly worn.  The black one runs in a different place to the red ones. They measure just about the same Internal diameter.  I just used a metal screw driver to peen the seal in 4-5 places... tapped with a small steel hammer...  I've always be able to remove the seals when replacing them without damaging them...  I've heard of the seals popping off if NOT peened... but can't remember any popping off if peened..  Don't forget to replace the two small seals inside the dual oil pump...


LEE in Australia
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Technical / Re: Modifications to an autostick
« Last post by 68autobug on 20 November 2017, 06:02  »
Yes, the later autosticks had a different front gearbox mount.  Just what the difference is i don't know. Late model gearboxes [transaxles] are very rare in Australia. I've only heard of one late autostick beetle in Australia. As far as i know, autostick Karmann ghias weren't sold in Australia, but I have seen a few that have been imported in later years and converted to manual, but still had the autostick shifter rubber boot... and maybe the gear shifter lever too.  ??
I did see where a US autostick owner had placed something attached to the gear shifter so he could change gears.. I can't remember what it was. It was functional but didn't look too good and was probably only used to shift from neutral into a forward or reverse gear...  I think it was some sort of trigger device...??
Once You have upgraded all the vacuum hoses and maybe automatic transmission fluid hoses, and adjusted everything, the autostick should last for another 10-20 years....  Just remember how old these cars are...
You need a good carburetor and distributor [best with an electronic ignition]....


Lee in Australia



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Technical / Re: Modifications to an autostick
« Last post by itskyle on 20 November 2017, 03:17  »
1st post and hopefully I can get more input than over at thesamba.  I've got a 70 beetle autostick (my very 1st).  In the past I would of converted this car the second it touched my driveway.  But, after getting it to run and driving it (needs fine tuning...but I enjoyed it) its going to stay an AS car.  So, here's a list of questions hopefully anyone can help with:

-The car has a 1600dp engine and 34pict carb.  Originally the carb was not AS "ready", but after searching these forums I found that I could make it an AS carb ((thank you)).  I have all the fixings to change this engine over to fuel injection by using the following:  German FI center section, throttle body, CB FI end casings with injectors, EDIS crank trigger setup and Megasquirt as the brains of all this.  I know that VW did have a 75 autostick beetle that used FI.  Does anyone know where the control valve connections would take place on the throttle body/center section?  I have not been able to find any information or a clear pic of this.  Also, while this is close to the stock setup I suspect the control valve will need to move due to the injectors being taller than the stock setup.  BTW...i'm not trying to build a rocketship.  Just something easier to tune and adjust...since I'm pretty much on my own when it comes to working on this car.  The shops in my area say to convert it to a 4 speed and not deal with a lousy setup.

-Has anyone used a custom shifter?  I have never been a fan of the stock shifter whether it was a 4 speed or an autostick.  While my shifter is beyond sloppy (I'm changing the bushing and coupler this weekend) I want something more decorative.  I have a scat dragfast but I do like the vintage speed shifter as well.  Originally I was looking into modifying the scat shifter using the bottom section of a Porsche sportomatic shifter with the microswitch.  This way it still retains the same function and no push button.  Anyways, if anyone has any input on this I'd be interested in hearing options here.

-My last question happens to be in regards to later transmissions.  I have a chance to trade some parts for a later transmission with the "park" function.  Is there anything I have to modify to get this transmission installed in my car?

Not sure about switching carby to fuel injected...  I've seen it done the other way a time or two in the magazines or the interwebs.  If you do this, I might be interested in your 34  as modified carby.

Re swapping out stock shifter.  Autostick shifter is a special beastie, as is mentioned by others around here.  If its customization you want, what about switching out just the gearshift knob?

Re:  early autostick to late autostick swap.  Should be fine, but later autostick trannies had slightly different mounts.  I've been thinking about that mod myself.

Kyle

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Technical / Re: 69 AS beetle sending smoke signals...
« Last post by LaLa69 on 17 November 2017, 02:34  »
So, today the seals from CIP1 came.  The picture showed the orange one, but I found the black one instead. 

Tomorrow, I will visit a friend and see of he has the orange seals.

If he doesnt, then I will try the black B seal ie more time, peen it 6 or 7 times and drench it in ATF.  This has gotten old quickly. 
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Technical / Re: 69 AS beetle sending smoke signals...
« Last post by 68autobug on 15 November 2017, 12:16  »
I have seen 4 different types of torque converter seals that do fit and do work.  If the early black seal didn't work as good as the later orange seal with two lips which are partially filled with ATF Automatic Transmission Fluid, so the lips are lubricated from start up.... So the lips do not get HOT and wear down....
I also prefer the Orange seal later model...  I am presuming that You do knock the seal into place correctly using a piece of PVC pipe [or similar]  and when seated it has been peined in 3-4-5 placed so it cannot move or leak. Now, the pressure used to pein the seal may not be correct.. it is something  that cannot be measured!!!
I'm no mechanic so I knock the seal in until it bottoms out, and then I Pein the seal around downwards.  Maybe if the metal part of the seal has been damaged enough for the seal to loose tenson.....

One other thing , the copper/bronze bushing must be in excellent order...

Lee in Australia
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Technical / Re: 69 AS beetle sending smoke signals...
« Last post by LaLa69 on 14 November 2017, 23:36  »
After more research, it seems that the orange seals are better than the black.  I have ordered these and will try one more time.
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Technical / Re: Have you ever tried to push-start your autostick?
« Last post by 68autobug on 14 November 2017, 10:43  »

I actually had the chance to push start My beetle about 2 months ago, when the battery was dead. It was on concrete and there was a downward slope onto the road plus a few workers... [like Homemart] and it may have started, but it might not have seeing the battery was dead, but after I walked about 3 miles home and drove back, it started straight away?????  but the started motor was only just turning...!!

LEE in Australia

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Technical / Re: Modifications to an autostick
« Last post by 68autobug on 14 November 2017, 10:13  »

I don't think We had any fuel injected beetles in Australia. They all had carburetors. Once You have everything sorted, the autostick is excellent to drive and although they are a bit slower in acceleration than a manual, they certainly don't seem to drive slower. If You start off in LOW gear You can really get moving... great at traffic lights - Yes, many VW mechanics in Australia used to tell people to have them changed over to a manual, as they were too troublesome., but if maintained correctly, they are No trouble at all, it's just that no one knows anything about them. Mechanics who now work on manual beetles were never taught anything about the autostick.  You just need to remember that these cars weren't designed to last this long, so they would have been trouble free for many many years for the original owner.  The gear shifter has a special lock out plate where it bolts to the floor, plus the gear shifter rod itself has a switch inside it, so  when You move the gear shifter knob forwards or backwards , with the ignition on, [and everything else is as it's supposed to be - in working order] You will hear the vacuum operated clutch operating. Now the gear shifter has to be tight so it all works, and the gearshifter stick switch adjusted correctly plus there should be a spring connected to the long shaft from the gear shifter to the gearbox which is visible under the oval plate located under the back seat. If the spring is missing, when You move the gear knob to the LEFT and then take Your hand off it, the knob should go back to the Right... So to select LOW gear or reverse You need to push the knob to the Left, so normally it is Forward = Drive ONE .... Backwards= Drive TWO  [vw call the 3 forward gears LOW Drive 1 & Drive 2]  If You can get a Good Single vacuum dual advance Distributor SVDA and a good working [or new] carburetor, and get them to work as new, then these cars are just magic to drive.  You can buy an electronic ignition to replace the points so You don't have to keep adjusting and renewing the points...  Well worth the money...  I actually have a Pertronix kit in My New Distributor. I am running a Brazillian WEBER carby that was made for beetles... no one seems to know anything about these and all I could find on the internet was in Portuguese language... they look more like a solex than a weber?? I ran one for years without a choke, but I found one with an auto choke.  You need to check all the vacuum hoses for leaks - all hoses need to be replaced if they are original..

cheers from Australia  - LEE

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Technical / Re: 69 AS beetle sending smoke signals...
« Last post by LaLa69 on 14 November 2017, 06:06  »
I am so frustrated now. 

Reassembled the 69 today with a rebuilt torque converter, balanced flexplate, new tc seal and it was leaking again from the tc seal within seconds of the test firing.  I used the B tc seal, as has been used before.  The as is a late model version, so the B seal should should be correct.  Peened it, lubed, set the rebuilt tc in after filling it on the bench.  I'm at a loss.  Nothing about this has been easy, but I feel like Im doing something wrong or just missing something.  I'm hoping for any assistance and/or advice.  Thanks
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