Recent Posts

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1
General / Re: 1969 Beetle Autostick Deluxe correct Speedometer
« Last post by Cutler on 16 November 2018, 21:32  »
That's quite a few speedo options. How do you even decide what to go with?
2
Parts / Re: any uk owners looking for parts
« Last post by ogripaul on 16 November 2018, 08:20  »
Hi Phil, I may be interested in 1 of your gearboxes, I am building a trike and looking for a complete set-up, cheers Paul
3
Technical / Re: Lets talk large vacuum hose
« Last post by autonewbie on 15 November 2018, 05:32  »
Not in an agricultural area but your idea is very interesting. I will see what I can learn about this type of hose.
Thanks!
4
Technical / Re: Lets talk large vacuum hose
« Last post by ebbingnl on 14 November 2018, 20:21  »
Hi,

Do you live in a bit agriculture area? Could try asking a milking equipment suplier, milking machines work on vacuŁm, and they use different diameters of hose.
Gerwin
5
Parts / any uk owners looking for parts
« Last post by philwheels on 14 November 2018, 13:41  »
i stripped my 1969 semi auto for a full rebuild a couple of years ago, unfortunately i suffered kidney failure and ive realised that i'll never be able to get it done, would rather sell as a complete package but i do have a couple of extra gearboxes.

you can contact me on here or philwheels@hotmail.com
6
Technical / Lets talk large vacuum hose
« Last post by autonewbie on 13 November 2018, 17:31  »
The large vacuum hose that connects to the control valve, vacuum tank, servo, and intake manifold seems to be impossible to buy in the USA. Yes there are proper diameter hoses available but they are not reinforced to prevent collapse. Belmetric use to sell wire reinforced braided hose but that hose has been discontinued.
Someone on here from down under mentioned they use a certain hose that works and is available there but I can't find it sold anywhere in the USA. (Even tho it is made in the USA)
Right now I don't actually need any of this hose but I am planning for the day that I do. Currently my thought is to buy any old hose of the correct diameter and slide a coil spring inside the hose to prevent collapse.  They do this on the lower radiator hoses of many cars to prevent collapse.
The problem is finding the right diameter spring and of sufficient length.
As I kid I worked in my Fathers hardware store and I recall long springs inside the core of window shades. I have no idea if they are still made that way but it is the only spring I can think of that might work.
Anyone on here have any ideas or a good source for large vacuum line that won't collapse?
Ken
7
Technical / Re: Driving around then car wouldnt go into any gear
« Last post by 68autobug on 13 November 2018, 07:25  »
The problem You have certainly sounds like a leaking vacuum hose, but if all the vacuum hoses including the small hose to the solenoid from the carburetor have been replaced....
My vacuum tank and clutch servo and Solenoid [original 1968] all work perfectly... After months, I can operate the clutch servo by moving the gear shifter slightly forwards or backwards about 10+++ times... so, I have NO Leaks anywhere...
Revving the engine should NOT be needed to obtain vacuum in the tank, it should be full all the time... if You have no leaks..
Having a nearly flat battery doesn't stop the solenoid from working, so, 11 volts or 14 volts it should still work..

You do have the ground strap at the nose of the gearbox??? otherwise the ground will vary with gear changes as the ground grounds out thru the gear selectors etc....
..
You can short out the neutral switch [at the nose of the gearbox] so, You can start it in gear...
I was always going to put a switch in so I could start in gear, but never did it....

You don't have a loose electrical connection at the solenoid??  You can put a voltage meter on the terminals to see what voltage is happening....   I soldered My electrical connections onto the solenoid....

Now, the small vacuum hose came off My carburetor once when driving on the highway, and as soon as I touched the gear shifter the solenoid activated and placed Me in neutral for about 4-5 seconds at a guess... Not good when You have just gone onto the highway traffic.... so, if that hose has a crack in it, that can happen. I replace that hose every couple of years.

Now, if you have voltage to the solenoid...[Mine is direct from the coil-fuel cutoff solenoid] plus a good ground and a good small vacuum hose , when You move the gear shifter, the Clutch servo SOLENOID MUST WORK....
and You should be able to engage any gear.

I almost forgot, make sure all electrical connections are bright & shiny & clean. Mine are, as I completely rewired My car...  Even if a connection looks good, it can be a bad connection if the copper is dirty and contaminated resulting in a poor connection...

Best of Luck

Lee in Australia

Summer and 40 C degrees not far away.... Christmas day usually 42C+ degrees with the bitumen surface of the roads melting....  some people love Christmas.... maybe great when it is cold... not so when it is[size=78%] HOT[/size]
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Technical / Re: Driving around then car wouldnt go into any gear
« Last post by autonewbie on 08 November 2018, 06:12  »
If I recall correctly, I sucked on the hose that is connected to the servo. I held my fat finger over the hose opening and watched if the servo slowly moved or if it held steady. Steady is good diaphram, moving is bad diapharm.

It is a pretty simple system: Shifter contacts turn on control valve solinoide, solinoide directs vacuum to the servo, servo operates the clutch.
Just check one piece at a time.  However if the system is still composed of 50 year old parts, and if you want a reliable car, then please do yourself a favor and replace everything you can.  All vacuum hoses, servo diaphram,
correctly adjusted shifter contacts, no loose wire connections, no shorted wires from shifter to the control valve.
( That was one of my issues, I had to run a new wire from the shifter to the control valve because mine was shorted to ground. )
Good luck!
9
Technical / Re: Driving around then car wouldnt go into any gear
« Last post by ctknecht on 07 November 2018, 19:55  »
Along with checking the vacuum level at multiple locations, I plan to check the peak current to the solenoid when actuated and when it is held in position both when it is cold and the vacuum tank is empty and again when warmed up and the vacuum tank has presumably been filled.

1) Does anyone know what the Amp range should be normally?
2) Is there a way to actuate it manually as an override (without the use of the electric solenoid)?
10
Technical / Re: Driving around then car wouldnt go into any gear
« Last post by sb001 on 07 November 2018, 19:45  »
Ken I think that would be a distinct possibility- something I did think of but due to the problem only occurring when engine has warmed up didn't think it was worth pursuing. It's certainly easy enough to check though.
This one is a real puzzler even to us familiar with the system... it's seems like something a bit out of the ordinary which is why one of my first suggestions was that it may be the voltage regulator.
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