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Parts / Re: desperately seeking a clutch plate
« Last post by Speedsterautoshift on 02 December 2019, 17:40  »
Ferndown, East Dorset.

John
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Parts / Re: desperately seeking a clutch plate
« Last post by Airhead on 02 December 2019, 17:35  »
Hi Speedsterautoshift

Whereabouts are you in the UK

Airhead
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Parts / Re: desperately seeking a clutch plate
« Last post by Speedsterautoshift on 27 November 2019, 19:07  »
As I said in my last post, no I have no 4 or even 2 post lift.

I do have a mobile engine hoist and two engine hoists of the tradtitional variety.

Although I am used to taking conventional engines and gearboxes out and have done them working in an ordinary double or even single garage, I have never taken a VW beetle engine out.

Obviously I have read up on it and I do understand that it should be relatively easy as long as you know to basically support the engine from underneath then lift the rear of the body and chassis up in the air. Or lower the engine to the floor.
BUT being a Speedster, this isn't possible. 

Only with a 4 post lift, two or three guys who can take the weight and a ton of fiddling, as this is what the garage had to do as one bolt threw them and they couldn't see how to undo it. The bolt was on the top connecting the gearbox to the engine, more or less, could have been to the torque converter but whatever it was they had to take the whole engine-gearbox assembly out in one. Then they discovered the "bolt" was in fact just slid in there, nothing to undo at all.  They replaced it with a proper one.

From then on, they just put it the engine back in then the gearbox/torque converter assembly.  If I have to take the box off, I will have to raise the whole car on ramps and axle stands, big ones like I use for my Land Rovers, and take it from there.  But it is amazingly tight.  Also, to separate the clutch from the box I think I have to drain the oil and fiddle about inside the box. Not really sure.

I have given some real thought to getting the clutch to release and I have come up with a couple of ways of doing this.  It is obvious that the clutch plate is now the right thickness, or if not, can only be off by a couple of thou. So I am going to play with how the diaphragm can is mounted, to see if I can move it further away from the gearbox, this would automatically move the arm in the right direction.  If I cannot do that, I could separate the mechanism, i.e. the bottle screw and the parts it screws to, and saw off a couple of mmm here and a couple of mm there to enable the arm to pull just that bit further to free the clutch off.

What is really annoying is knowing I could do that without having to even move the car from where it is parked, outside on the gravel drive. But to shut the squeal up, whatever it is, I am more or less sure I am going to have to get the box, clutch, etc off.  And I cannot get either into the garage or even to the garage door as the garage is still full of stuff for the kitchen and utility room which I still have to finish, (I recently chipped a bone in my thumb and am not really supposed to do anything much in the DIY line for a few weeks). In front of the garage are 2 Land Rovers deliberately left there blocking it from intruders when we are in France. Now they are blocking me!  Neither will be easy to start, one hasn't started for 2 years at least!.

I also don't know anyone with experience on Beetles except the garage that fitted it originally and he was difficult when we asked him to do the clutch change at the beginning of the year. He didn't want to do the job as it would have blocked up his lift for a week or so and he no longer does the sort of work he used to do. So we got an offer to do it from the other garage and when they got stuck they rang the specialist and he started off awkward with "that was my job" type remarks , which none of us could understand. Although in the end he did become very helpful, emailing then digarams that I didn't have.

So now we have the clutch-plate, and especially if I can get it to release properly, the specialist might be more willing to take it on again and get the job finished, but having already paid 1500 to have it ferked up by the non-specialists neither I, nor the wife, whose car it is, want to have to spend yet more money to get it sorted. She is more willing to throw money at it than I am but then that is more me being bliddy stubborn and hating to let any car get the better of me.

Plus I also have to tune it back to how it was when I took it to the garage.  The bloke there thought it sounded awful so he employed, completely unknown to us, a tuning specialist who apparently works on Beetle specials all the time and does dragsters etc.  But the bloke didn't realise that the rattly engine, when warm, makes a lovely noise so didn't need touching at all, and the "tuner" tuned it cold, so it started and ran fine until it got warm and then it became a death trap as the usual flat spot just off tickover, (twin Webers) came in with a vengeance. In a manual car there are solutions to it but in an Autostick it really is deathly trying to pull onto a roundabout with a dying engine.

So watch this space!  Maybe after Xmas I'll be able to get back to it.
Have a lovely Christmas!
john
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Parts / Re: desperately seeking a clutch plate
« Last post by volkenstein on 27 November 2019, 01:41  »
Speedster,
                Not having come across a speedster replica - first thing is - can your engine come out without a four poster hoist? If it needs to - oh woe.

Regards
Volkenstein
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Parts / Re: desperately seeking a clutch plate
« Last post by Speedsterautoshift on 21 November 2019, 00:46  »
I've got plans for "outside the box" ways of fixing the clutch.

but what annoys me the most is that the screeching sound that occurs at tickover and just a bit above, is likely to be either  the thrust bearing or whatever it's called (forgotten) or another bearing someoen mentioned on another thread and I just KNOW that the gearbox and clutch are going to have to come off to fix it. And I am not sure U can do that on my own especially as I have no four post lift or anything.  doing it in a speedster is a whole different ballgame to doing it in an ordianry VW Beetle.
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Parts / Re: desperately seeking a clutch plate
« Last post by 68autobug on 20 November 2019, 15:06  »
Hi,
I see You are back from France and the problem is still there.... The main problem with autosticks is that NO ONE knows how to repair one or even know how they work.... I wouldn't let any Mechanic touch My car as I built it, and I know how easy it is to damage components etc....  You may have to get a used plate and use that.... The Clutch plates do not wear much as they are nearly instantly In or Out..... and I know You have spent a lot of money already and your car should be ready to drive for many many kilometres now....
I just hope they haven't damaged anything else....

Best of Luck

Lee in Australia....
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Parts / Re: desperately seeking a clutch plate
« Last post by Speedsterautoshift on 20 November 2019, 11:25  »
Hi Airhead,

Thanks for your kind offer.  The problem now is not one of getting a plate of the right thickness but of getting around the fact the garage just cannot seem to fit it. We had to move foreward with things as we were leaving to go to live in France for 6 months odd, as we normally do every year. So they told us they'd fixed it. We had to pay to get it out.

They haven't fixed it at all, there is an awful noise until revved a bit and it is impossible to change gear.  I had to start it in gear, then drive it home in "second" (middle one of the three). 

Barely made it home as they had also, without my agreement, had it "tuned" by an "expert on VWs" who didn't even get the engine warm. It suffers with the usual flatspot down to being twin Webers which although a pain can be got over in a manual car, but is dangerous in an Autoshift. 

So it sits on our drive wrapped up until I can attend to it, but I have a kitchen install to finish and I have recently chipped a bone in my thumb.  So this has cost us 1500, for more or less nothing.

See you on the forum, there is another thread all about the ins and out of this, can't remember where though.

Again thanks for the offer.

John
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Parts / Re: desperately seeking a clutch plate
« Last post by Airhead on 20 November 2019, 08:42  »
Hi John

I know this topic is old but I have 2 clutch plates, both used but plenty of wear left on them, open to reasonable offers, based in South Yorkshire

Cheers

Steve
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Parts / As parts for sale in the UK
« Last post by Airhead on 20 November 2019, 08:38  »
Hi All
I have the following A/S parts available open to any reasonable offers:

1 x working gearbox good condition
1 x incomplete gearbox
Flex plate
Torque converter
Control valve
Servo
ATF tank
Gear stick
Pedal assembly
Oil pump

Message me for pictures

Cheers

Steve
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Technical Information / Re: Choke Heating Element Configuration
« Last post by volkenstein on 14 November 2019, 02:43  »
Achilles,
           Pretty much working as designed. You will notice (*should* :) ) that when cold, if you cycle the throttle, the throttle positioner is actually riding on one of the cam steps. As the car warm's up - you can blip the throttle and  the TP will move according to the cars heat/throttle element etc. What you are experiencing would be considered "normal"....ie - the car will run faster as you HAVE NOT blipped the throttle to reposition the cam. When you DO this..it may/may not hit another step on that cam....what I recommend you have a look at it is when the beast is fully warmed...you are OFF the cam steps, and the choke is FULLY open - ditto  your flaps - fully OPEN (assumng you have a working standard thermostat). I'll have a hunt round the interweb to see what a 30 Pict 3 has fitted as most of my experience is 34 Pict 3 based..

HTH
Volkenstein
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