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Technical / Re: Cainít shift
« Last post by Willyb on 20 May 2018, 03:34  »
Thank you very much. The radio power was tied into the number 11 Spot. Thanks
Technical / Re: Cainít shift
« Last post by sb001 on 20 May 2018, 01:24  »
If stock wiring, then your autostick control valve's power lead wire comes off #11 fuse up at the fuse block. (Earlier models were tied into the ignition coil in the engine bay for a power source, but starting in 1971-- i think-- VW moved that wire to fuse #11 on the fuse block up front.)
If your control valve is indeed connected at #11 fuse, it will be a black wire coming off the fused side of that fuse. You can disconnect wires from that fuse (if more than 1) and then reconnect, and listen for the control valve to click in the engine bay, to determine which wire it is. If your radio's power lead is connected there as well, and is shorting out somehow (which is what it sounds like) then it might affect the control valve in that instant as well as that circuit will be grounding out before power reaches the control valve.
Technical / Cainít shift
« Last post by Willyb on 19 May 2018, 17:46  »
My 1973 has a aftermarket radio some one installed many years ago. My problem is sometimes while driving the radio will just cut off and I can not shift in any gear. Sounds like some wire is tied into another wire that should not be and is a little loose. I have no idea where to start to find the problem. Any suggestions appreciated. Thanks.
More than a week? I'd hope it would hold vacuum for years!
Of course it's important to make sure your control valve and servo aren't leaking-- that said, you don't see an advantage in an added measure of prevention?
Iím going to look into Carlís point about the Porsche system. Doesnít make sense to me because: engine Oil runs considerably hotter than ATF in these systems; running combustion contaminated oil through the ATF system makes even less sense and, even more importantly in the stock setup with standard or dog house oil cooler, adding extra oil capacity is not effective. The rate of cooling is fixed by the surface area of the cooler and volume of air and oil driven through it. In the VW system (Porsche not dissimilar) the relationship between oil capacity, cooler heat transfer capacity and volume of oil driven through the cooler are pretty well balanced. That is why many who bolt on those extra sumps below the engine are frustrated to see their engine run hotter. The added oil capacity is retaining more heat than the cooler can transfer out of the system. Thermodynamics.. I am certain that it would work in theory but the added fluid would quickly overwhelm the stock cooling system in the VW.
Technical / Re: Does anyone use any type of sealant on their vacuum hoses?
« Last post by tmea on 15 May 2018, 19:58  »
Not me. My system holds vacuum for more than a week. Donít see an advantage. I think it more important to make certain your VCV which has the majority of leak points in the system is leak proof. The servo too.

Technical / Does anyone use any type of sealant on their vacuum hoses?
« Last post by sb001 on 13 May 2018, 04:32  »
I'm wondering if it wouldn't be a bad idea to help the hose connections at the intake manifold, control valve, etc by using a thin film of some sort of sealant material. Just a thought I had, but I wouldn't know what to use.
Technical / Re: Cant shift out of reverse
« Last post by 68autobug on 09 May 2018, 04:13  »

Now that is really strange.... Cannot get out of reverse when parking after a run...  it doesn't crunch going into reverse????
The only thing I can think of is the contact points, not working when You try to go OUT of REVERSE....
which would mean the points are burnt on one place, which is where You try to go out of reverse... VERY ODD though...
The worst case would be something in the gearbox or the selector...
I wonder if the cause could be the nylon bush on the gear shaft under the gear shifter??? it is worn enough to stop the points being selected to go OUT of reverse, remembering that reverse is in a completely different position... DOWN & forwards....?????
or the only other thing could be a worn reverse lock out plate under the gearshifter....


Technical / Re: Cant shift out of reverse
« Last post by sb001 on 08 May 2018, 22:54  »
Does it help if you rev the gas when trying to shift out of reverse?
I am thinking two things here- #1, the idle speed in gear is too low and causing problems trying to shift out but it is OK in neutral trying to shift INTO gear. However I would think this would affect the other gears as well.
#2, it's possible that the contacts at the base of the shifter are out of alignment such that it allows you to shift into reverse but has trouble shifting out of it (i.e. pulling the gear stick back does not make the contacts touch to activate the control valve and disengage the clutch.) And it doesn't affect the other gears.
Other than those two options I;m out of ideas- if it was having trouble shifting into reverse as well as out, or if the other gears were being affected, I might have a few more options. I CAN tell you that when my clutch diaphragm developed a small tear in it, it seemed to affect reverse more than the other gears BUT it did make it extremely difficult to shift INTO gear as well as out, AND it affected the other gears, so I don't think it's that. I'm eager to hear the diagnosis!!
Technical / Re: ATF Temp Warning Light
« Last post by tmea on 08 May 2018, 17:23  »
Interesting. Bentley says the sending units activate at around 300F. In normal driving on the highway in the hot summer.  I have checked my ATF temp (with IR gun) on the reservoir tank and never seen in anythning hotter than 170F. That is quite a margin.

I know thermodynamics but do not know anything about the heat curve on TCs. Iím sure it is an interesting load to heat dynamic. It has to be for VW to have put two sensors then, one on the tranny to monitor it. They never spent a dime on anything that wasnít absolutely necessary.

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