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Technical / Re: high speed accel stumble
« Last post by Raymond73 on Today at 03:23 »
First off, I'm no expert. SB001 and 68autobug are much better sources. Hopefully they will be around checking the forum soon.

In the mean time I was thinking that

If all your vacuum lines to the control valve and clutch servo are in good shape, (and your ATF fluid is at the proper level,) your control valve might need to be adjusted. Try

Also check out this discussion on the Samba. It almost sounds like your problem is the opposite (clutch not engaging soon enough)
Technical / high speed accel stumble
« Last post by bhartwell59 on 24 May 2017, 02:58  »
Not sure if this is an autostick issue... at high speed, say 45mph-60, I find that if I hit the gas to make a pass, I get a stumble. Only for a sec and then things are fine. Car is at operating temp and idles/runs great... this issue is more annoying than a big deal.

Got a 34pict3 (with the carb hack as detailed/discussed on this site), 205 SVDA dizzy and recently did the intake manifold heat riser ream out.

Any ideas?
Technical / Re: Solenoid
« Last post by Raymond73 on 20 May 2017, 04:26  »
Parts / Re: Auto stick Parts For Sale
« Last post by Willyb on 19 May 2017, 20:14  »
Do you still have the actuator valve. I really need that. Thanks.
Technical / Solenoid
« Last post by Willyb on 19 May 2017, 19:35  »
Can anyone tell me what color wire it is that goes from shifter to solenoid?
Technical / Will not go into neutral
« Last post by Willyb on 19 May 2017, 19:27  »
My autostick shifts good between low and high while driving. When I come to a stop and going to turn engine off it will not go into neutral. I can turn the key off and it shifts into neutral very easy. Thanks for any response.
Technical / Re: CAN'T GET ANY GEAR.
« Last post by 68autobug on 16 May 2017, 20:26  »

Did You fix the problem or sell the car????

I have found that the vacuum hose sizes and type of hose doesn't seem to be critical, so long as it doesn't get sucked in by the vacuum, but the ATF hose and fittings does seem to be critical.  I remember one fellow in the USA getting all the ATF hoses made up complete with new fittings.
His car didn't go too well. I suggested He measure the inside diameter of the new fittings. He found they new fittings had very small inside diameters so it was restricting the flow of ATF. He drilled the new fittings out to the correct sizes and it worked correctly.

Lee in Australia
Technical / Re: Weak idle after driving in town for 30+ minutes
« Last post by 68autobug on 16 May 2017, 20:16  »
Great news guys.
I have always wondered if the correct top gasket on carburetors is the correct one as You do see where there is a hole in the bottom and You are not sure whether the hole or more should be covered over...
and as usually now a carburetor gasket kit contains lots of different gaskets..

Lee in Australia..
    A trick piece of wiring is the NSS. The Stick is always ready to go, it is just that to start the car - the stick shifter fork (gearbox) has a depression milled into it. The end point of the NSS rides on that gearbox rail. Only in neutral is the starter electrical connection able to pass current because it hit's (well drops into) that depression enabling the starter circuit to complete.

Funnily enough - you have to move the gearstick into neutral to activate the NSS starter connection.

If memory servers correctly - at the electrical connection to the NSS the brown shift wire "looks" like two wires. it's actually front (gearstick) & rear (CV) circuits going to a common point.

How's that?
Well, I completely rewired My beetle when I first bought it in 1996 so I have a few modifications!!!
and you are correct Sean about the wiring and common point. I have a wire to go to the Neutral safety switch and a lamp in the dash that will light up when the car is in neutral... but I have never connected it all together as yet!! seemed like a good thing to do at the time... My car is set up so that nothing happens if I push the gear shifter sideways, [like thr drivers or passengers knee hitting it.  it only goes into neutral when the gear shifter is pushed forwards or backwards. Also there is a spring under the oval plate that connects to the bottom of the shaft joiner and the left hand side of the chassis, so that the gearshift is always in the D1-D2 plane so You can go from Drive 1 to Drive 2 and back very easily.. You have to actually push the gearshifter over to the Left to engage reverse or LOW gear which can be used all the time for fast starts at traffic lights... it will go like a rocket and amaze the other drivers...  My driveway is made from small stones and I can dig a hole very easily by using LOW gear [or reverse]..
The neutral safety switch and the way it is wired and works is quite ingenious...
Lee in Australia
Technical / Re: Engine shakes when in gear -
« Last post by 68autobug on 16 May 2017, 19:46  »
My first guess is that the flex plate bolts have come loose. It can make a hell of a racket and really shakes the engine.
 I also had one captive nut on the flex plate come loose [normally brazed to the flex plate] which also shakes everything.
Maybe the engine/transaxle rear mounts have completely come apart so they are just sitting there not attached . The mounts can look OK until the gearbox is jacked slightly up, You can then see the cracks in the rubber well before the rubber seperates from the steel. I always fit new engine/gearbox mounts every time I take the engine out... Try to find good German or UK quality mounts.
 This is an autostick only question as You cannot stop a manual car in gear and clutch pedal out.... 
Of course the engine has to be perfectly tuned to not shake when idling in neutral.

Lee in Australia
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