Author Topic: Control valve & Servo  (Read 875 times)

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Offline sb001

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Re: Control valve & Servo
« Reply #15 on: 04 April 2018, 19:13 »
Today I installed the new shifter wire into the engine compartment. Before I hooked both wires to the cv, I hooked my 12 buzzer to the shifter wire in the engine compartment. I then reassembled the shifter and used the buzzer to indicate correct shifter adjustment. It was very easy to set it perfectly just by listening to the buzzer.
Next I removed the buzzer and hooked the wires to the cv. Started the car, shifted into all gears, and all is well.
My baby is back in running condition.
Thank you all for your input.
Ken

So am I correct in assuming you ran the new wire directly from the connector under the rear seat straight to the control valve (bypassing the neutral safety switch?)

Offline autonewbie

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Re: Control valve & Servo
« Reply #16 on: 04 April 2018, 22:55 »
Yes Steve that is exactly what I did. Works great now.

How are you getting along with your flex plate bolt?  I used allen head bolts when I replaced my clutch.  They worked out well.
Been 9 years with this car and it has run well.
Good luck getting that broken bolt out. I can't imagine how it could be done without taking the engine out. I hope you find a way.
Ken
When I  was 15 I wanted a Ghia....It only took me 47 years to get one!   1970 Karmann Ghia Autostick.

Offline sb001

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Re: Control valve & Servo
« Reply #17 on: 04 April 2018, 23:03 »
Thanks, I don't know if I can use an extractor tool like what I posted in the other thread-- never tried it before. It looks fairly simple-- drill a pilot hole with a very small bit, then drill one of those extractor bits into the broken stud (it would have to be a small extractor bit!) and try to back it out. I think more than anything the trick is getting the drill up in that tight spot!
I guess the car would probably be just fine with only 3 bolts holding TC to flex plate, but I would at least like to try getting that broken stud out.

Offline autonewbie

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Re: Control valve & Servo
« Reply #18 on: 05 April 2018, 00:20 »
Do you have a right angle attachment for your drill?  Harbour Freight has them cheap.

I  would not drive with only 3 bolts. The plate actually does flex and the additional stress may crack it.
Years ago I bought a spare flex plate from ew parts for around $100.  It was refurbished.
Good luck,
Ken


When I  was 15 I wanted a Ghia....It only took me 47 years to get one!   1970 Karmann Ghia Autostick.

Offline 68autobug

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Re: Control valve & Servo
« Reply #19 on: 05 April 2018, 01:44 »
Thanks, I don't know if I can use an extractor tool like what I posted in the other thread-- never tried it before. It looks fairly simple-- drill a pilot hole with a very small bit, then drill one of those extractor bits into the broken stud (it would have to be a small extractor bit!) and try to back it out. I think more than anything the trick is getting the drill up in that tight spot!
I guess the car would probably be just fine with only 3 bolts holding TC to flex plate, but I would at least like to try getting that broken stud out.

I don't know how long the car would go before breaking another flexplate bolt.. NOT GOOD...
I had never used a screw extractor before, and when I did, it broke off... as I have found that You should drill the largest hole in the broken off bolt/stud and use a screw extractor that size, so You are only unscrewing a small part of the broken off bolt... I have used hexagon headed grade 8.8 hi tensile bolts and I believe I had to grind a spanner or socket to do them up or undo them... I have also used high tensile allen headed bolts, and now I have the original type screws back in place...  as I am 69 years old I don't really want to lay under My beetle either... lol...  You need to be careful with that broken bolt/screw as I had a nut on the back of the flexplate come loose... Now it can be brazed back on, but the FLEXPLATE needs to be completely balanced..  Best of LUCK...

Lee in Australia
-- Helping keep Autostick beetles on the road --
   -1968 Silver metallic 1600 single port Beetle - with BOSCH  SVDA and new BROSOL H30/31 carburetor with GENIE Extractor exhaust system with a quiet thunderbird muffler

http://photobucket.com/68autobug

Offline 68autobug

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Re: Control valve & Servo
« Reply #20 on: 05 April 2018, 03:09 »
Today I installed the new shifter wire into the engine compartment. Before I hooked both wires to the cv, I hooked my 12 buzzer to the shifter wire in the engine compartment. I then reassembled the shifter and used the buzzer to indicate correct shifter adjustment. It was very easy to set it perfectly just by listening to the buzzer.
Next I removed the buzzer and hooked the wires to the cv. Started the car, shifted into all gears, and all is well.
My baby is back in running condition.
Thank you all for your input.
Ken



Check if Your Gear shifter works correctly, With the ignition turned on, The Control valve should only work when pushing the gear shifter knob forwards or backwards, moving it sideways should do nothing.
and You should only be able to start Your engine when in Neutral....   that is how it left the factory.... if it doesn't do all those things.... You can probably still drive it OK...

cheers

Lee from Australia







-- Helping keep Autostick beetles on the road --
   -1968 Silver metallic 1600 single port Beetle - with BOSCH  SVDA and new BROSOL H30/31 carburetor with GENIE Extractor exhaust system with a quiet thunderbird muffler

http://photobucket.com/68autobug

Offline sb001

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Re: Control valve & Servo
« Reply #21 on: 05 April 2018, 15:44 »
Do you have a right angle attachment for your drill?  Harbour Freight has them cheap.

I  would not drive with only 3 bolts. The plate actually does flex and the additional stress may crack it.
Years ago I bought a spare flex plate from ew parts for around $100.  It was refurbished.
Good luck,
Ken

Well crap, I didn't think about that - guess I'll try to get the broken bolt out, if no luck then I'll have no choice but to pull the engine.  >:(

Offline sb001

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Re: Control valve & Servo
« Reply #22 on: 05 April 2018, 15:47 »

I don't know how long the car would go before breaking another flexplate bolt.. NOT GOOD...
I had never used a screw extractor before, and when I did, it broke off... as I have found that You should drill the largest hole in the broken off bolt/stud and use a screw extractor that size, so You are only unscrewing a small part of the broken off bolt... I have used hexagon headed grade 8.8 hi tensile bolts and I believe I had to grind a spanner or socket to do them up or undo them... I have also used high tensile allen headed bolts, and now I have the original type screws back in place...  as I am 69 years old I don't really want to lay under My beetle either... lol...  You need to be careful with that broken bolt/screw as I had a nut on the back of the flexplate come loose... Now it can be brazed back on, but the FLEXPLATE needs to be completely balanced..  Best of LUCK...

Lee in Australia

Thanks for the advice- I'll give it my best shot. I guess worst that happens is that I ruin the bolt to the point where there's no way I can get it out-- and have to pull the engine and replace the flex plate.  >:( I sure hope it doesn't come to that although won't be the first time... it's just unbelievable the domino effect that just trying to remove the clutch canister has had...  :P

Anyway I'll keep any further posts about this issue to my thread on the topic- don't want to hijack this thread.

Offline 68autobug

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Re: Control valve & Servo
« Reply #23 on: 12 April 2018, 05:52 »
If the broken screw undid the brazed on nut on the flexplete - I suppose You could have the nut rebrazed onto the flexplate [I have one to be re brazed back on] then to have the flexplate balanced maybe tricky , but not impossible,...

Lee in Australia

-- Helping keep Autostick beetles on the road --
   -1968 Silver metallic 1600 single port Beetle - with BOSCH  SVDA and new BROSOL H30/31 carburetor with GENIE Extractor exhaust system with a quiet thunderbird muffler

http://photobucket.com/68autobug