Those of you who've taken apart a clutch servo canister....

Started by sb001, 30 March 2018, 22:51

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sb001

...how in the world did you get the metal band around the middle off????
This sucker is crimped on on both top and bottom sides, there is NO WAY I can get it off without ruining it!


sb001

Never mind- I just noticed that the rebuild kits for these come with a new metal band to go around the canister, they clamp in place with a screw. So I guess you're supposed to destroy this one getting it off.
I've never had to take a canister apart before in 30 years of driving this car... I wonder if I'd actually be better off finding a good used canister, reading on some other posts about comparing the quality of the old diaphragm to the new one...

68autobug

Yes, I have a repair kit which includes the new metal strap ... best to all Your repair kits now while You can still get them...

LEE in Australia
-- Helping keep Autostick beetles on the road --
   -1968 Silver metallic 1600 single port Beetle - with BOSCH  SVDA and new BROSOL H30/31 carburetor with GENIE Extractor exhaust system with a quiet thunderbird muffler

http://photobucket.com/68autobug

sb001

One more question - the original diaphragm is connected to a center metal plate, like it's glued to it-- but the new diaphragm in the kit does not have the metal center-- how do i get the metal center plate separated from the original diaphragm to install the new one?

volkenstein

sb001,
         It shouldn't be. Go down to members step by step. I have disassembled one there, from the old forum. The piccies work, INCLUDING - how to rip the original sealing ring off.

Regards
Volkenstein
'71 RHD A-S Super - "Klaus"

sb001

Thanks volkenstein!!
P.S. Here is the small tear I found in my diaphragm-- could this really cause enough of a vacuum leak for the car to have extreme difficulty shifting into gear??


68autobug

Hi Sean,
I haven't taken a diaphram off but it looks that the center part of the rubber diaphram is bolted between the two pieces of steel..
It doesn't take much of a hole to stop it working correctly...

LEE
-- Helping keep Autostick beetles on the road --
   -1968 Silver metallic 1600 single port Beetle - with BOSCH  SVDA and new BROSOL H30/31 carburetor with GENIE Extractor exhaust system with a quiet thunderbird muffler

http://photobucket.com/68autobug

sb001

Thx Lee- my name is Steve BTW  :D

Although that reminds me of one time in 3rd grade, when I was reading a story out loud in class and came to the name Sean, I correctly pronounced it "SHAUN", the teach er said I was wrong and it was "SEEN." I said "what? are you stupid?" And got immediately sent to the principal's office. The principal just laughed.

volkenstein

 ;D ,
      Gotcha both then...Stephen Sean is the start of my lunatic family tradition.
Anyway - yeah, that tear will definitely cause shifting issues.

Just remember - the vacuum is coming via a 12mm ID hose - it won't matter how big your vac can is. It'll lose vacuum straight away as air will enter via that tear and
attempt to equalise.

Re - the two halves...inner portions seal the inside, the outside diameter seals so effectively creating the vacuum seal. Sb's example looks like it has just been a typical victim
of age & vacuum & movement over time has caused the rubber to split.


HTH
Volkenstein
'71 RHD A-S Super - "Klaus"

sb001

Quote from: volkenstein on 04 April 2018, 09:32
;D ,
      Gotcha both then...Stephen Sean is the start of my lunatic family tradition.
Anyway - yeah, that tear will definitely cause shifting issues.

Just remember - the vacuum is coming via a 12mm ID hose - it won't matter how big your vac can is. It'll lose vacuum straight away as air will enter via that tear and
attempt to equalise.

Re - the two halves...inner portions seal the inside, the outside diameter seals so effectively creating the vacuum seal. Sb's example looks like it has just been a typical victim
of age & vacuum & movement over time has caused the rubber to split.


HTH
Volkenstein

Thanks tons Volkenstein! This is the first time in the entire life of this car I have ever had to replace the diaphragm inside the canister--that's almost 50 years with zero problems with the canister!  :o  It really does make me wonder if I should find another good used German one and bolt it on instead of going with one of those aftermarket rebuild kits. I know those are popular but come on- 50 years without a problem?? The proof is in the pudding- or the canister as would be the case here...

68autobug

Getting a good replacement used cannister [clutch servo] really depends on where it has been stored and how long was it used... Remember that no one really makes anything to last 50 years, it was just that Germans made many things as good as was possible.... with the best quality materials available back then...
replacing the diaphram with a new one should guarantee many more years of service.... maybe not 50 years though??


Lee in Australia

-- Helping keep Autostick beetles on the road --
   -1968 Silver metallic 1600 single port Beetle - with BOSCH  SVDA and new BROSOL H30/31 carburetor with GENIE Extractor exhaust system with a quiet thunderbird muffler

http://photobucket.com/68autobug

volkenstein

Sb,
    I have three (experimental subjects) additional ones. Those piccies came from the one on the car. Lee & myself & Bookwus (RIP) did some offline comparisons
and found differences relating to the adjustment centre stud. Also - I will state that the rubber quality of the replacement kits isn't as good as OG German (surprise, surprise).

BOT. Two of these cans had the crimped on rings, 1 had been previously rebuilt. I found (thanks to the Mityvac) that the large bore vac fitting on 1 had worked
itself loose - over time & abuse? Also found that on the one I rebuilt....a word to the wary I guess.

What I would try and do (and did) was to make sure once it was 90% assembled, with the new ring *just* snugged - was to make sure the diaphragm would butt up against the bottom of the can (vac side) and THEN tighten the crew clamping the two halves.

Another potential source of parts (IIRC with rotten memory now) is Truck Air Brakes. The OD is relatively standard. Something to take up later?

Sh ones - well - note what I said above. Here in Aus - more co$t effective to buy the rebuild kit than hunt for an unmolested one.


HTH
Volkenstein
'71 RHD A-S Super - "Klaus"

bhartwell59

I have no problem with the rebuild kit... the rubber bladder was supple and flexible.

The only issue is the new screw-down metal band/ring that compresses the two halves together is fairly thick. Oh well, easier to repair in 40 yrs.
1974 zambezi green Ghia vert

paulheger

I had quite a though time getting the new metal band in place. It seems to be designed to compress the two halves when its getting tighter, but the quality is not that good that it can hold the torque to do so. Be careful, the two plates that hold the srew can't handle that much force. I used some clamps and vise to hold the two halves together with a little push, then the metal band will slide on and can be tightened.
Btw. To get the original band of: make a little start, grap it with a Lineman's plier and start twisting/turning. Works really easy.
1969 type 1 - 1500 conv - semi automatic

autonewbie

I just replaced my servo diaphram yesterday. All was easy except getting the band on.  I had to use a longer bolt to get the band started and I also applied a very thin smear of grease on the INSIDE (back) side of the band. I had hoped it would make the band slide and conform easier. It was still tough but it is now on and all works well.
When I  was 15 I wanted a Ghia....It only took me 47 years to get one!   1970 Karmann Ghia Autostick.