Author Topic: Engine removal / reinstall procedure PART DEUX  (Read 260 times)

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Offline bowlingbrad

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Engine removal / reinstall procedure PART DEUX
« on: 26 June 2018, 16:45 »
It was a mere nine years ago that I was inquiring about removing my engine for an overhaul http://vwar.org/forum/index.php?topic=936.0.
Everyone on vwar was extremely cordial and helpful.

My wife and I chose to tighten some bolts and seal up some leaks and delay the inevitable.  Well, the inevitable has come.  The engine is almost ready to be removed.  All I have left is to drain the ATF and disconnect the ATF hoses.

Nine years is a long time and I would like to reach out and ask if Mike's (Bookwus) suggestions still apply.

Thanks!

Quote
1.  The Bentley manual has an 18 or twenty step procedure for removing the engine.  And they do include AutoStick specific steps.  It's easier to point you that way than to try to rewrite the whole procedure based on my experience.  However, let me say this.............the removal of an AutoStick engine is really not all that different than pulling a manual engine.  There are some extra wires, vacuum hoses, and ATF lines to cope with.  Along that line, make some provision for dripping ATF.  That stuff will continue to "bleed" almost as long as you have your engine out.  I cut golf tees and placed them in the hose ends and then taped them in place. 
If you should run into problems during the engine removal be sure to post up here with questions.

2.  Not that I'm aware.  But then again, I've not done a Ghia.

3.  Well, that sure wouldn't hurt but I don't think it's absolutely necessary.  It's more important in my opinion that they make very careful notes about EXACTLY how things come apart so that they can be reassembled correctly.  Be sure that YOU handle getting the flexplate off.  It's too easy to warp if done incorrectly.

4.  OK, in an engine overhaul I'd be gearing up to replace pistons and cylinders, regrind or replace the crankshaft, regrind or replace the camshaft and the lifters, have the heads checked out/worked over by a good machine shop, and, of course, all new engine seals.  With respect to AutoStick specific equipment, I can think only of two areas that I'd consider absolutely necessary........the oil/ATF pump should be disassembled and cleaned with new internal seals (there's two of 'em) installed.  And you'll need a new torque converter seal if you remove your torque converter.  And other parts needed will depend on the current condition of your engine and tranny.

5.  You might give some serious consideration to removing the clutch servo before you have your buddies over.  It's a tough little job to pull that thing with the tranny in place but it makes tranny removal quite a bit easier.  I'd also recommend that you remove as much "stuff" from the engine as is reasonably possible before you drop it.  Carburetor, distributor...........anything you can get out of the engine compartment will make life easier during the actual engine removal.  Also give some thought to pulling off your rear wheels and removing the engine through the wheel wells.  It will mean that you'll not have to get your car so high on blocks.

Offline bowlingbrad

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Re: Engine removal / reinstall procedure PART DEUX
« Reply #1 on: 30 June 2018, 23:32 »
Boy did I get lucky.
My friend has a coworker that worked on VWs all his life in Puerto Rico.  He came over last night and helped me get the engine out.  Those top bolts on the auto-stick in a Ghia are tough but we got them.

Packing a bunch of questions, I went to my local vw parts shop - Sparomobile http://www.fornparts.com/index.html- for those of you in the Chicago Area.

Mike Armbruster was tremendously helpful.  I was more than willing to do all of the seals myself but once I asked him if there was anyone that could look at my block, he gave me the name of an old school VW guy who rebuilds engines.  I called him and he couldn't be nicer and I'm bringing my engine to him tonight.  Updates to come...

Offline 68autobug

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Re: Engine removal / reinstall procedure PART
« Reply #2 on: 17 July 2018, 10:01 »

I've had My engine out probably 8 times...m  The engine was overhauled by a local mechanic who had owned beetles over the years./  After I had bought My car in 1997... I have one very large advantage... My rear valance is made of fiberglass and can be unbolted and taken off, so the engine can be pulled straight out without lifting the car high in the air.... I have virtually every technical manual made for My car, which I have read many times, including the Robert Bentley manual that VW of America used in their workshops..
You need to replace the Torque converter SEAL, the two Engine oil/ATF dual pump SEALS, and the main crankshaft SEAL, apart from other engine overhaul parts. If You still have points in Your distributor, I would recommend replacing them with electronic ignition, so You never need to replace points again. 

Lee in Australia
-- Helping keep Autostick beetles on the road --
   -1968 Silver metallic 1600 single port Beetle - with BOSCH  SVDA and new BROSOL H30/31 carburetor with GENIE Extractor exhaust system with a quiet thunderbird muffler

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