Author Topic: Driving around then car wouldnt go into any gear  (Read 389 times)

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Offline autonewbie

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Re: Driving around then car wouldnt go into any gear
« Reply #15 on: 08 November 2018, 06:12 »
If I recall correctly, I sucked on the hose that is connected to the servo. I held my fat finger over the hose opening and watched if the servo slowly moved or if it held steady. Steady is good diaphram, moving is bad diapharm.

It is a pretty simple system: Shifter contacts turn on control valve solinoide, solinoide directs vacuum to the servo, servo operates the clutch.
Just check one piece at a time.  However if the system is still composed of 50 year old parts, and if you want a reliable car, then please do yourself a favor and replace everything you can.  All vacuum hoses, servo diaphram,
correctly adjusted shifter contacts, no loose wire connections, no shorted wires from shifter to the control valve.
( That was one of my issues, I had to run a new wire from the shifter to the control valve because mine was shorted to ground. )
Good luck!
When I  was 15 I wanted a Ghia....It only took me 47 years to get one!   1970 Karmann Ghia Autostick.

Offline 68autobug

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  • 68AutoBug - Lee in Australia
    • My 1968 Autostick Beetle
Re: Driving around then car wouldnt go into any gear
« Reply #16 on: 13 November 2018, 07:25 »
The problem You have certainly sounds like a leaking vacuum hose, but if all the vacuum hoses including the small hose to the solenoid from the carburetor have been replaced....
My vacuum tank and clutch servo and Solenoid [original 1968] all work perfectly... After months, I can operate the clutch servo by moving the gear shifter slightly forwards or backwards about 10+++ times... so, I have NO Leaks anywhere...
Revving the engine should NOT be needed to obtain vacuum in the tank, it should be full all the time... if You have no leaks..
Having a nearly flat battery doesn't stop the solenoid from working, so, 11 volts or 14 volts it should still work..

You do have the ground strap at the nose of the gearbox??? otherwise the ground will vary with gear changes as the ground grounds out thru the gear selectors etc....
..
You can short out the neutral switch [at the nose of the gearbox] so, You can start it in gear...
I was always going to put a switch in so I could start in gear, but never did it....

You don't have a loose electrical connection at the solenoid??  You can put a voltage meter on the terminals to see what voltage is happening....   I soldered My electrical connections onto the solenoid....

Now, the small vacuum hose came off My carburetor once when driving on the highway, and as soon as I touched the gear shifter the solenoid activated and placed Me in neutral for about 4-5 seconds at a guess... Not good when You have just gone onto the highway traffic.... so, if that hose has a crack in it, that can happen. I replace that hose every couple of years.

Now, if you have voltage to the solenoid...[Mine is direct from the coil-fuel cutoff solenoid] plus a good ground and a good small vacuum hose , when You move the gear shifter, the Clutch servo SOLENOID MUST WORK....
and You should be able to engage any gear.

I almost forgot, make sure all electrical connections are bright & shiny & clean. Mine are, as I completely rewired My car...  Even if a connection looks good, it can be a bad connection if the copper is dirty and contaminated resulting in a poor connection...

Best of Luck

Lee in Australia

Summer and 40 C degrees not far away.... Christmas day usually 42C+ degrees with the bitumen surface of the roads melting....  some people love Christmas.... maybe great when it is cold... not so when it is[size=78%] HOT[/size]
-- Helping keep Autostick beetles on the road --
   -1968 Silver metallic 1600 single port Beetle - with BOSCH  SVDA and new BROSOL H30/31 carburetor with GENIE Extractor exhaust system with a quiet thunderbird muffler

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