sometimes stalls when put into L

Started by bhartwell59, 26 May 2019, 22:46

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bhartwell59

car idles fine, works in all other gears fine.

but within the past two weeks, it's not consistent, when i start out in L (like at a light, or first thing in the morning) it'll crap out. Luckily it restarts quickly and i'm on my way... in L.

i adjusted the shifter contact points to no avail. replaced the servo bladder roughly 2 years ago.

what next?

thanks all!
1974 zambezi green Ghia vert

68autobug

Hi
it wouldn't be the points or the clutch servo,  can You go into reverse with out any problems?
Usually any problems like this are  in reverse gear, which can be fixed by adjusting the clutch servo adjuster about 1/4 a turn.
You could try adjusting the carburetor so the engine is idling a bit higher. If the problem is still there I would suggest adjusting the clutch servo about 1/4 of a turn, as it seems that the clutch is engaged and stops the engine.. An autostick engine idle speed is higher than a manual...   I use LOW gear most of the time, although all VW manuals say it is for driving up steep driveways or if the car is heavy loaded going up an incline... or parking... 


LEE in Australia

-- Helping keep Autostick beetles on the road --
   -1968 Silver metallic 1600 single port Beetle - with BOSCH  SVDA and new BROSOL H30/31 carburetor with GENIE Extractor exhaust system with a quiet thunderbird muffler

http://photobucket.com/68autobug

bhartwell59

i use L pretty much all the time just for it's quick acceleration (and it's fun).

the servo adjustment makes sense.
1974 zambezi green Ghia vert

bhartwell59

Well, for some reason the servo adjustment didn't seem to work. I would get grinding in R and sometimes couldn't even get the car into gear. Unless I'm doing something wrong (a turn or two toward the servo... and yes, righty loosey, lefty tighty).

Checked the hose from the CV to the servo and doesn't look like it has a leak in it.

Hmmm, the fun continues
1974 zambezi green Ghia vert

68autobug

#4
Hi,
to adjust the clutch servo, turn the adjuster until You can select reverse without grinding.  All the forward gears should work OK. then.  I have found. only turn the adjuster about 1/4 turn at a time until You can select reverse OK... then tighten the adjuster.... Now why selecting  LOW Gear turns the engine off, is a weird one....  also very odd that it is only LOW gear and not any of the other gears...  I presume You have checked all the electrical connections on the fuse box & engine. Coil wires etc.... wire going to carburetor fuel shut off.... look for a loose wire..... clean all electrical connections.....  Including the control valve connectors....  Now I would take the fuse in the engine compartment out all together.... If You want a fuse for the control valve place a complete NEW ONE under the back seat .... I don't use one at all.... You can try running Your engine idle at 850-900 rpm.... revving a bit at idle but see if it fixes the problem... as the clutch seems to be engaged & it stops the engine if the idle is too low.... only thing I can think of....  although it should do it every time unless the auto choke is working....
have You checked the wire coming out the bottom of the gear shifter? as I found the pvc insulation was falling off..... I can't see how that would affect the engine though.... anyway try out the high idle & servo adjustment and see what happens...   Have you checked the 3 wires coming off the neutral start switch at the nose of the gearbox.....??   could be loose connection... can't be too bad as You can still start the engine in neutral OK...??
Very Odd problem....

Another thing I just thought of.... does Your Gearbox have an earth or ground strap at the nose on the front gearbox mount???    it should have.....
Also, You don't have a lot of things hanging off Your key ring, as that can damage the key switch....




Best of Luck

Lee in Australia..



-- Helping keep Autostick beetles on the road --
   -1968 Silver metallic 1600 single port Beetle - with BOSCH  SVDA and new BROSOL H30/31 carburetor with GENIE Extractor exhaust system with a quiet thunderbird muffler

http://photobucket.com/68autobug

bhartwell59

the engine starts and idles okay, i readjusted the contact points under the shifter and looked for peeling insulation that might short something out. nothing. fuses look good. hoses are fine.

i adjusted the servo arm but got "grinding in R or couldn't even get it in gear" results... maybe i didn't do it enough.

i'll check the neutral safety switch. and make sure the servo has/holds vacuum... before i pull it to inspect.

Thanks!
1974 zambezi green Ghia vert

68autobug

#6
Yes, You need to adjust the clutch adjuster so You CAN select reverse without any crunching... then tighten the lock nut..  If You can select reverse OK then all the others should be OK....   
If the clutch vacuum tank has no vacuum then the clutch will NOT work at all.... so I don't believe You have any vacuum issues.... otherwise You wouldn't get into any gear.... just the adjustment.... just do 1/4 turn at a time until You can select reverse without grinding and it should be OK.... Normally..
there could be a bad connection at the neutral switch but if it was really bad, You wouldn't be able to start the engine at all.!!!! So I don't really think it is the neutral switch......  I'm trying to think of anything that could cause the problem...but because You can start the engine straight away...... The only thing I can think of are the clutch adjustment PLUS the engine being at too low at idle, so when You engage LOW gear, it is too much for the engine at LOW revs....
Have You tried upping the idle speed to see if it still stops when You select LOW ??? 
when You first start the engine, the automatic choke should have the engine running faster than it normally does, so does it cut out when put into LOW  with the choke working [engine revving]  just adjust the idle one half turn of the screw or one full turn so You can always go back to where it was....  but the only thing I can think of is too low an idle speed....
I have a tacho in My car and the idle is 900 rpm....  which is much higher than a manual car.... because of the torque converter and being in gear....

LEE in Australia

-- Helping keep Autostick beetles on the road --
   -1968 Silver metallic 1600 single port Beetle - with BOSCH  SVDA and new BROSOL H30/31 carburetor with GENIE Extractor exhaust system with a quiet thunderbird muffler

http://photobucket.com/68autobug

bhartwell59

Well, it was a torn servo diaphragm. Just a small hole.

So that last one was put on 2.5 yrs ago. Geez, at this rate I'll be an expert doing this type of repair!
1974 zambezi green Ghia vert

68autobug

Well, I didn't think of that at all... I am still using  my original clutch servo, plus I have a spare original one plus a repair kit...
You were very lucky to find that..  Great work...

Lee in Australia

-- Helping keep Autostick beetles on the road --
   -1968 Silver metallic 1600 single port Beetle - with BOSCH  SVDA and new BROSOL H30/31 carburetor with GENIE Extractor exhaust system with a quiet thunderbird muffler

http://photobucket.com/68autobug

bhartwell59

I'm sure I'll be doing this again (Chinese part?) : (

Do we know if there is a German-made diaphragm? Like Lee, my original lasted a good long time.
1974 zambezi green Ghia vert

68autobug


I'm NOT SURE WHERE THE CLUTCH SERVO DIAPHRAM ARE MADE.....
if they are Chinese are even Mexican, not good....  I bought mine from the USA  but that means nothing really...    Fingers crossed they were made in the USA or Europe somewhere....

Lee in Australia...
-- Helping keep Autostick beetles on the road --
   -1968 Silver metallic 1600 single port Beetle - with BOSCH  SVDA and new BROSOL H30/31 carburetor with GENIE Extractor exhaust system with a quiet thunderbird muffler

http://photobucket.com/68autobug