auto stick problem

Started by cisco3609, 18 July 2007, 05:43

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

cisco3609

 I had a blown servo and patched it. It worked till the patch gave way. So i got a used one of the net,tested it and installed.But now it will not shift.I replaced hoses and points in stick shift. It still will not go into gear >:( What else could be the problem? I checked the blue wire running under my rear seat, still good.I had my wife try and shift it into gear and I can see the servo working.Do I need to adjust my clutch freeplay? If so,how? ???

volkenstein

Cisco,
       I'll leave freeplay adjustment to Bookwus (Mike), but some questions to start with first.

Contacts adjusted in the gearstick to spec?  The electrics sound OK since you can see the servo being actuated.

Stop plate/gearstick relationship set properly (re-assembled it all properly)?  Finicky POS, you have to make sure all gears can be selected.

Shift rod bushing OK?
Shift rod coupler OK?
Will the car shift whilst turned off?
Did you compare the new servo rod length with your old one?
How many miles on the clutch?
Was it sitting for a long time?
Does it grind when attempting to shift with the engine going? Did it do that before?

Sorry, more than a few ;D, but every little bit of info helps..

Volkenstein

PS. I have an autostick section of the Bentley scanned in PDF format. 6Mb. If you want a copy, shoot me an email.
'71 RHD A-S Super - "Klaus"

Bookwus

Hiya cisco,

You certainly could have a problem with the freeplay adjustment.  But as Sean points out, there is a bunch we don't know and you did do work in other areas.  The long and the short of it is that, at this point, it could be any number of things.  Rather than zap you a procedure for adjusting the freeplay (and possibly send you off on a dead-end) give us some more info.  Sean supplied you with a good list of questions to answer.
Mike

1970 AS Bug

cisco3609

When I touch my stick shift ,even a little, I can hear the pump move.When I replace the servo I also replaced the points and the plate that holds the stick shift in place was loose. I have a feeling I have more than one problem. :-[ I am still pretty lost under that tranny so I'm sure its my error.So if I may ask, how do you adjust the points in the stick shift and how do you adjust the stick shift placement. I've seen those symbols (/) (\) but I havent a clue as to what they stand for.

Bookwus

Hiya cisco,

Quote from: cisco3609 on 20 July 2007, 05:02
When I touch my stick shift ,even a little, I can hear the pump move.

Well, even when properly adjusted the gear shift lever is VERY sensitive to touch. 

QuoteWhen I replace the servo I also replaced the points and the plate that holds the stick shift in place was loose. I have a feeling I have more than one problem. :-[ I am still pretty lost under that tranny so I'm sure its my error.

Did you do anything when you replaced the points to gap them?  If you replaced the shift plate the same way it came out, you are most of the way home in that respect.  Whenever the shift plate is moved around it takes a little futzing around with it to get a proper "feel" in the shift action.  A wise course of action in the future is to mark the position of the shift plate if you have to remove it.

QuoteSo if I may ask, how do you adjust the points in the stick shift .........

Adjusting the gap in the shifter points is unlike gapping a set of ignition points.  You won't really be able to even see the actual gap you are setting.
Start by screwing the shifter sleeve gently down until it bottoms.  What you have actually done is to bring the two surfaces of the points into contact with another, so do this gently.  Now back off the sleeve about one half a turn.  That will be very close to the gap specification of .013 in.  (actually VW specifies a range from .010 to .016 so you have some slack to play with).  Check that with a feeler guage and when you are getting it close to .013 lock her up with the lock nut.
Mike

1970 AS Bug

68autobug

#5

Hi Cisco,
I agree with the others, its most probably the gearshift plate...

these are different to the standard gearshift plate found in manual cars...
the reverse lockout is different...[I presume]

even the standard manual plate is a real pain to adjust if you haven't done it before...   same with the autostick plate...

I'm guessing its that what is causing the problem...
and you probably can't get it into gear without the engine going...??

as the clutch servo is working etc...
so, its definately NOT that causing the problem...

thats why many mechanics won't touch an autostick
as if they don't know what they are doing, they can spend all day on a simple
task/ adjustment...

Lee - 68Autobug - Australia -

http://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug



-- Helping keep Autostick beetles on the road --
   -1968 Silver metallic 1600 single port Beetle - with BOSCH  SVDA and new BROSOL H30/31 carburetor with GENIE Extractor exhaust system with a quiet thunderbird muffler

http://photobucket.com/68autobug

volkenstein

#6
Cisco,
       Here's a photo showing the stop plate. As you see it is how it sit's in the car.

EDIT...The pic was wrong...I'll post a better (read correct) one later



There it is...correct this time...

What you are supposed to do is select "L" range. Make sure the gearstick is aligned with the centreline of the tunnel. It should be sitting 10 degrees back toward the rear seat. Now you are supposed to back off the two bolts holding the gearstick in, reach in with a wire or something from the drivers side (in the USA that is..) and move the stop plate until it you feel where it touches the small collar above the stick's ball. Naturally you can't see a thing!!
Tighten the two bolts (just nip them up), check shifting into all gears. If there's no nastiness or missed gears, tighten to spec. If you can't select a gear, try again. Cobey said it was an exercise in frustration..... :(

HTH
Volkenstein
'71 RHD A-S Super - "Klaus"

pod

( Cobey said it was an exercise in frustration..... Sad )
I agree ,my one I cant select L range unless i depress ,so i`ll have to start again as this dosent help with it sometimes crunching into reverse , as if its trying to go between gears  :(
mine  70 baja beetle veronica
daughters 69 A/S beetle  gerard

www.flatfour.org

68autobug

Hi,

I think if You have had experience with a manual gearshift lock out plate,
then this is similar....
I have adjusted many manuals because You could select reverse without
pushing the gearlever down...

the lockout plate looks correct for an autostick...

it only seems impossible to get the plate correctly positioned.... lol...
Once you master it... they aren't too difficult...
well not impossible.... :'( :'( ??? ???

I still remember when I undone the two bolts in My fathers new 60 model beetle
then I couldn't find reverse....  it took a few hours to get it right....
I was a nervous wreck after that....

Lee

http://community.wesbhots.com/user/vw68autobug







-- Helping keep Autostick beetles on the road --
   -1968 Silver metallic 1600 single port Beetle - with BOSCH  SVDA and new BROSOL H30/31 carburetor with GENIE Extractor exhaust system with a quiet thunderbird muffler

http://photobucket.com/68autobug

Bookwus

Hiya all,

In view of where this thread has been, the following might not need to be said, but I'm gonna say it so it's on the record.  Whenever one works on the shift lever and finds that they need to remove the shift lever, take the time to mark around the shift plate as it sits in its correct position.  That will make reinstallation a whole lot easier and a whole lot less frustrating.
Mike

1970 AS Bug

cisco3609

 I adjusted my points,plate and clutch freeplay. It finally shifts ;D I think it was my clutch arm.It had way too much play.Thank you guys for all the help.If not for this site I would've taken my car to a shop and probably payed a mechanic $300.00 to fix it.

cisco3609

I also need to know how to adjust my control valve so that it shifts smoother.thanks again

68autobug

Hi,
when you adjust the control valve,
You are just adjusting the time it takes for the carburetor vacuum
to work....
if You have a standard Autostick carburetor ,
You shouldn't have any worries...
if its not a standard carburetor, then you can have delayed
or mostly abrupt operating clutch...
it can also be noisy as it thumps into gear...

If the clutch is engaging too quickly, turn the adjusting screw on the top
of the control valve clockwise one quarter to one half turn..

If its operating too slowly turn the screw one quarter to one half turn anti clockwise...

if the small vacuum hose going to the carburetor comes off...
it will take 2-3-4 seconds for the control valve to work...
this happened to me once just after I had turned onto a major highway
in traffic....  those few seconds seemed like minutes...
and every time I touched the gearlever it started over again...
2 to 4 seconds approx....
screw is painted yellow... yours may still have the cap on the screw..

Lee Noonan  - 68Autobug

http://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug




-- Helping keep Autostick beetles on the road --
   -1968 Silver metallic 1600 single port Beetle - with BOSCH  SVDA and new BROSOL H30/31 carburetor with GENIE Extractor exhaust system with a quiet thunderbird muffler

http://photobucket.com/68autobug