Author Topic: D-I-Y A/S Performance Nose Cone Mount  (Read 1319 times)

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Offline singlecab61

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D-I-Y A/S Performance Nose Cone Mount
« on: 24 November 2009, 07:15 »
Hello everyone out there is Auto-Stick land!

Well, I decided it was finally time to swap the old shot tranny in my A/S to the later one I picked up several months ago.

I went out and bought an early Split Window Bus nosecone tranny mount for my A/S tranny. The early Split Bus nose cone mounts are built flat on the chassis side and are almost as strong as a urethane mount. The stock T1 style mount has the little ovaled out section on the chassis side allowing for much more movement. Definitely a major source for wheel hop and hard shifts due to the amount of movement in the nose of the tranny.  

I finished reassembling the clutch and bell housing and finally went to install the early Split Bus nose cone mount. Just one problem. The Auto-Stick nose cone mounts are DIFFERENT!!!!! Instead of the mounting studs being offset like any other VW mount, the mount studs for the A/S are straight across! Very annoying in my honest opinion. I have to reuse the old mount. Don't get me wrong, the old mount is still good, but I wanted a stiffer mount.

Knowing that a urethane nosecone mount for and Auto-Stick would pretty much be made of Unobtanium, I decided to try modifying the stock mount. After staring at the mount for almost an hour it hit me....shove a couple of metal plates in the ovaled section to prevent excess movement!!!

Here is what I came up with.

First, the early Split Window Bus nose cone mount, see no ovaled section:


Now a stock Bug/Ghia mount, see the ovaled section (It is not an A/S mount, I just took a pic of it to show the before shot of the actual A/S mount):


Here is the final modified mount, the shiny white pieces are the stiffening plates I installed in the ovaled section (This is the A/S mount):


To do this, all you need is a:
-DRILL
-3/16" DRILL BIT
-2" 10-32 PAN HEAD SCREW
-10-32 HEX NUT
-3" OF PLATE ALUMINUM 1 1/4" WIDE, 1/8" THICK
-MEDIUM SIZE HAMMER
-SOME SPRAY LUBE
-SCREWDRIVER
-WRENCH
-HACKSAW

-Insert the drill bit as far out of the drill chuck as possible, you will need every last bit of it. Drill through the dead center of the ovaled section.
-Spray the aluminum plate and mount crevice with the spray lube and hammer the plate into either to the top or bottom mount crevice (you will feel it bottom out).
-Hold the plate in the mount and drill through it.
-Insert the screw halfway into the mount to secure the plate.
-With the saw, cut off the excess plate flush with the mount.
-Spray the opposite mount crevice and the remaining plate with the spray lube and hammer it into the opposite side of the mount crevice (again, you will feel it bottom out).
-Again, hold the plate and drill through it.
-Push the screw all the way through the mount.
-With the saw again, cut off the excess plate flush with the mount.
-Install and tighten the nut.
-Cut the screw end flush with the nut with the saw.

Now if you want a fully performance stiff mounted tranny/engine, install a set of RHINO urethane bell housing mounts and modify the stock nose cone mount like above. You will notice a difference, especially when shifting! (You may have to notch a section of the pan mount to allow the screw and nut to fit, I had to.)
« Last Edit: 27 November 2009, 22:53 by singlecab61 »
1956 Rag Top Oval (Dad's)
1961 Single Cab (Mine)
1961 Single Cab (Lil Bro's)
1969 Auto-Stick Bug (Mine)

"If it has wheels or a motor, IT NEEDS MORE POWER!"-Tim Allen.