Hiya Goth,
Welcome to the group! Before we go any further, do know that this is THE site for AutoStick info. There are a lot of good folks here who have tinkered their way into a lot of AS knowledge. There are also good technical "lifts" of info that can temporarily take the place of a Bentley, although you do need to get your hands on a Bentley ASAP. By the way, go to Amazon.com for the best Bentley prices - should be around $28.00US.
Your questions...........
"does my theory that a higher than normal idle make the car think it's unsafe to switch into gear hold true?"
No. The car does not have the ability to think in the sense that we use that term with modern cars. The driver can shift into another range with no regard to RPM. Of course, the driver will wind up paying the consequences if he does so injudiciously.
"is there a site that has a bunch of pictures of maintenance procedures?"
Not that I've seen. Again, this site will be your best source for additional (to your soon to be purchased Bentley) AS info.
"just don't totally know what it could be if it isn't the idle or that contact."
Well, do know this............shifting in an AutoStick is electrical function with the assist of a vacuum system. Consequently, almost all shifting problems (one rarely needs to break open the actual transmission case in an AS) can be found in the electrical system [shift lever through control valve solenoid] and/or in the vacuum system [intake manifold through control valve to clutch servo and including the vacuum reservoir tank]. My bet would be that your problem can be solved/fixed by attending to these two systems.
And........definitely change out that ATF. And smell it while you're at it. From your description, it sounds as if it might be burnt. If so, it will have a burnt smell to it. That could be a indicator of bad things to come, but keep your fingers crossed, these AutoSticks are really pretty hardy.
In the meantime, check out this article I wrote a few years back for another website....................
Trouble Shooting an Auto-Stick
A Little Background
Prior to the Auto-Stick, Volkswagen had marketed a wholly mechanical semi-automatic transmission in Europe called the Sax-o-matic (also referred to simply as a Saxomat). Encouraged by the response of customers in Europe and with an eye on the increasingly upscale market in the United States, VW began development of an improved semi-automatic transmission in the mid sixties. VW introduced its Automatic Stickshift transmission in 1968. It was available in Standard Sedans, SuperBeetles, and Karmann Ghias throughout its production run (until 1975).
The Nature of the Beast
Basically, the Auto-Stick allows for driving without the necessity of shifting gears, as in a manual transmission. For that matter, many trips may be made without shifting of any kind. However, it is not an automatic transmission in the sense that term is used today. Technically, the Auto-Stick is a dry-clutch, three-speed, semi-automatic transmission which makes use of a torque converter.
The driver, unemcumbered by a clutch pedal, has the option of going through the gears as one would with a manual transmission; Low, First, and then Second. Shifting occurs by simply moving the shifter to the desired position while easing off the gas pedal. Or the driver could simply leave the shifter in First for around town driving. Although the start off the line is slow, the driver even has the option of setting the transmission in Second and leaving it that range as he drives.
The shifting pattern is in a typical three-speed "H" format. Upper left is Reverse, lower left is Low, upper right is First, and lower right is Second. Reverse, as with all VW transmissions of the day has to be depressed to engage.
VW refers to the AS shifter positions as "ranges". Low range is designed for starting off under a load or uphill. First range accommodates most around-town type of driving speeds up to approximately 45 MPH. Second range is the choice for highway driving speeds.
Checking Out the Auto-Stick
Shifting gears in an Auto-Stick is an electrical operation accomplished with the aid of a vacuum assist. There are many individual components to the vacuum assist system, such as the hoses, clutch servo, control valve, and vacuum tank. This being the case, it is almost always a good idea to troubleshoot the vacuum system first when something goes wrong.
The Vacuum System
Leaks anywhere in the vacuum system can result in symptoms such as poor (slow or jerky) shifts. Actually, the vacuum hoses and their clamps should be replaced on a regular basis (like every 10,000 miles). So, look the hoses over carefully for signs of wear or cracking. Also check to see that the hoses are keeping their natural shape; which is to say......not collapsing. Hoses in the vacuum system should be wire-reinforced. Replacement hosing can be obtained at a local hydraulics shop. Also while doing this inspect the clamps and be sure they are tight.
This is also a good time to thoroughly examine your vacuum tank (under the driver's side rear fender) for leaks. It is prone to gravel spray
from the rear tire. Lastly, in doing a "vacuum check" take a good look at the control valve and the clutch servo. The control valve is not likely to be leaking (although that is a possibility) but may need to be adjusted. See any good manual (Haynes or Bentley. Having at least one of these manuals is an absolute necessity.) for this procedure.
Be sure that the vacuum hose from the control valve to the carburetor is hooked up to the proper vacuum nipple on the carburetor. That nipple (and its source) should be above the butterfly for proper shifting action. This would be an excellent opportunity to remove the control valve air filter and clean it out. Another chore to do while you're back in this area is checking the Automatic Transmission Fluid level in the ATF reservoir. The ATF dipstick is built into the reservoir lid which can be found on the right hand side of the engine compartment. The fluid should be checked while warm, but the engine should not be running.
The Clutch Servo
The clutch servo may well be where you are experiencing any possible leaks. Check it carefully to see that it holds a vacuum. To check the servo for leaks, remove the vacuum hose from the control valve where it attaches (the vacuum opening) to the servo. Move the clutch arm toward the rear of the car so that the servo's internal bladder is pulled out of its resting position and fills the servo with air through the vacuum opening. Place your thumb over the vacuum opening and observe the bladder action through the holes on the side of the servo. If the bladder deflates, you have a leak. Replacing a clutch servo is rather common in an Auto-Stick with more than a few miles on it. Rebuild kits are readily available and of reasonable cost. The only real hassle involved with the clutch servo is its location, which is just above the left heat exchanger. To remove or adjust the servo, youšll likely have to remove that heat exchanger first.
If the servo bladder holds a vacuum in the test above, your servo is airtight, but may need to be adjusted. Actually, what is really adjusted is the clutch free play. This can be accomplished by following the directions (you'll have to make a gauge too - the directions for that are in the manuals also) in either Bentley or Haynes. Should you find that you cannot adjust the clutch free play "out" any more, you will have to remove the engine and replace the clutch. However, do know two important facts about the clutch before you go tearing into it. The clutch disc and pressure plate have a remarkably long lifespan in an AutoStick. I have pulled apart OEM clutch assemblies in cars with way more than 100,000 miles and thirty years and the components were still in very good working order. Can the clutch wear out or go bad? Certainly! But the odds against it are on your side. The other thing you should know about the clutch assembly is a bit more somber. The parts inside the bellhousing are extremely difficult to find. Impossible is more like it in certain cases. Bear that in mind as you get into the clutch assembly.
The Electrical End
So, let's say your vacuum checks out. Next, try the electrical end of all this. Your shifter has a set of points within it. Normally the action of moving the shifter will cause the contacts to touch and complete the circuit to the control valve. When these points make contact the Auto-Stick can do its job and the driver is able shift the transmission. Poor contact or no contact is going to result in gear gnashing and other assorted transmission horrors. So you'll need to check out the condition and the gap of your shifter points. Again, a good manual can instruct you in this procedure.
While you're down there adjusting the points, trace that blue wire coming out of the bottom of the shifter. It should lead back under the rear seat to a connector. Because this connection leads back to the control valve, it must have a solid contact at this point, so check that out. But you're not finished here. Back in the engine compartment (usually in the upper left hand corner near the coil) you'll find two in-line fuse holders. One of those fuse holders governs the back-up lights. The other one, which will have a lead connecting to the solenoid on the control valve, transmits power to the control valve. Check to be sure that this fuse is in good shape and its contacts are clean.
It would also be a good idea to get a continuity checker and check out the electrical switches (the neutral safety switch and the ATF temperature switch) on the transmission itself (they're over on the passenger side of the tranny behind the right heater box head).
Something Else
If everything mentioned so far checks out well for you, remember this; the better shape your engine is in (all things being equal) the better your Auto-Stick will perform. Due to its vacuum connections, the Auto-Stick is more sensitive to a well tuned engine than a manual.
Take a good hard look at your carburetor, especially around the area of your vacuum lead to the control valve. Look for any gas leaks; anything which might indicate a loss of vacuum at that point. Check your carburetor adjustment. Regap the points and plugs. Retime your engine. In short, make sure your engine is tuned up.
Do Know This
Although it adheres to the basic Volkswagen philosophy of good, sound transportation, the Auto-Stick transmission has been frowned upon by a number present-day VW fans. Changing Auto-Sticks over to manuals has spawned websites aimed at helping to accomplish this task. Yet the Auto-Stick itself is a reliable and functional transmission. Many of the parts, such as the case and gearing are actually built to the same high tolerances as the manual. If well maintained, the Auto-Stick will deliver many years of dependable and useful service. Most of the problems encountered by Auto-Stick owners can be handled by observing the procedures listed above in this article."
Good luck!
Mike
1970 AS Bug
