News:

This forum is opened for archival purpose, users will be able to search for old information but not post.

Main Menu

Auto stick shift problems

Started by buggofast, October 12, 2006, 01:06:44 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

buggofast

I have a 72 AS super. I just bought it and started driving it today, it was engaging gears from a stop really hard w/ no delay at all, also the idle would pick up so I thought I had a leak in the servo hose, I changed it out for new hose and now the thing won't release, if I play w/ it I can get it to release and finally get it in gear but it then takes about a minute or two for it to finally let the clutch out I hear the solenoid click every time I touch the shifter so thats working and I know the servo is good cause it will hold vaccuum that long I tried messing w/ the adjustment screw but it changed nothing, I need help

volkenstein

Buggofast,
             Is there a small vacuum line from the carb to the control valve?
The clutch not releasing (or after a long time) is indicative that your reducer isn't working.

Have a look in the "Stock 34 Pict 3" topic further down the Tech section for the proper location of the hose. It goes to a brass spigot on the larger body section, and would appear to the right (and closer) of that rusty circular thing you see.

Next check. On top of the Control Valve should be an adjusting screw (it may have a clear (yellowed by now!) cap on it. Pull it off and check that you have two full threads (discount the first 1/2 of the starting thread) exposed. That is the "baseline" for further adjustment.

If it doesn't budge (or has calcification corrosion) don't lean into it!!!!
It'll be stiff, but not locked.


Let us know what you find
Volkenstein
1 Super RHD Semi-Auto "Klaus"

buggofast

the small vaccuum line is in place and attached where it should be, just over and left of the large plug, the adjustment screw is about half way out, I have had it almost all the way out w/ no change at all

volkenstein

Buggofast,
              Large plug? On the carb? On the left that's a vacuum retard port. The hose should be on a fitting on the right of the carby plug (as you look at the engine). If you don't have a fitting in that spot, you'll have to drill/fab.

That would go a long way to explain why nothing much happens at the CV.

Post a pic if you can of the carby.

Another test that would be worthwhile:

Pull off the small hose at the CV. Reach underneath the CV's large squarish head, you'll feel a hole. With one hand, press up on the screw head you feel, then put another finger over the brass spigot and release the first one (on that screw head). You should feel some suction in the brass spigot.
It could also be blocked. There's a tiny hole in that brass piece. You could take it off and make sure it's not blocked. Careful of the rubber mounts if you do this "in situ".

Let us know how you get on.

PS. Look at the "Your Control Valve, Unplugged" topic. Lot's of pics of the innards of the CV.

Volkenstein
1 Super RHD Semi-Auto "Klaus"

buggofast

I think I may have it figured out, I believe your right about the retard port, that would explain the hard shift I started w/ . now I remembered tonight that the hose I used to replace the old one although it was booster hose I cut the last 3 inches off because there was a ring of what appeared to be mud around the inside of it, I think it may have a mud wasp nest in it. stranger things have happened I'm gonna check it out tomorrow also now I have a contact problem, should the cv ground side go straight to the contacts I can't find a diagram.

volkenstein

Buggofast,
              Don't you love it when little nasties sprint out of their hidey holes? My donor bug's trans was home to several redback spiders and a fat wasp nest!.

You can use brake booster hose on the short ones (manifold to CV, CV to reservoir) but I'd recommend you get the 12mm ID reinforced stuff from Ralph at belmetric for the CV to clutch servo.
www.belmetric.com part No RH12W.

The black lead via the coil & 8 amp fuse generally on the left, brown wire (or grey)  goes to the neutral safety switch, exit wire to a connector under the rear seat, and from there to the gearstick. That is how VW did it but who knows what abominations have been committed in the name of expediency!

Go here for the '72 supplement showing A-S wiring:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/wiring/bug_72_supplement.jpg

Regards
Volkenstein
1 Super RHD Semi-Auto "Klaus"

buggofast

pulled it apart this morning, definitely a mud wasp in the hose, got that fixed for now figured out the wiring, all works again but it still shift into gears pretty hard, I teed the small hose into the dist. advance line until I can alter the carb.

Crasher

Christ, and I thought living in England was bad what with the violent crime and a government of champagne socialist do good open toe sandal wearing wankers running the place, at least I don't get sodding great insects blocking up my heater channels. Cancel my application to emigrate as of now!
ormally known as 1302LS auto

conradk


volkenstein

Conrad,
          Did you bung that link into the "Stock 34 Pict 3" thread?

Regards
Sean
1 Super RHD Semi-Auto "Klaus"