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replaceing a clutch

Started by inzgary, February 17, 2007, 09:08:35 PM

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inzgary

hi i have a 73' auto super bug that needs a clutch and torque converter seal replaced the problem is finding the parts

im trying to find:

-clutch disk
-pressure plate
-throw out bearing

- torque converter seal
- torque converter bushing

while im at it i might as well replace the rear main engine seal and O ring- is this the same on standard and automatic? and where can i find one?

also while the engines out im replacing the muffler ive been able to locate an autostick muffler but hevent been able to find:

- clamps for between muffler and heater boxes
- replacement cables that open and close the heater boxes from the lever inside the car
- heaterbox levers and springs

if anyone can send me a website that deals any of these parts it would be greatly appreciated because these parts are hard to find i have been hunting around alot

thank you

inzgary

ps - looking for a shift point too thanks

volkenstein

inzgary,
          A search would have revealed most of the answers, but to spare you time :

Check out www.evwparts.com for seal and bushing and it's also a stockist of the contact point for the gearstick and other autostick parts.

Unless you go to swap meets you will probably never get a throwout bearing. They have been NLA for years.

Exedy/Daikin make a pressure plate and clutch plate. You may pick up a Sachs unit somewhere.

Rear main and O-ring are the same as a manual, getting the flexplate off/on will be a major job without good tools, like a big rattle gun for instance that will drive a 36mm socket.

www.thesamba.com for second hand parts in the classifieds.

www.wolfsburgwest.com , www.empius.com , www.bfyobsoleteparts.com (? think that's it..). For places like your clamps, heaterbox repair kits blah blah.

www.cip1.com is another source.

In the UK try street style and power. Haven't got a link for them at the moment.

Muffler installation kit is sold by any VW shop. Leistritz is a good brand if you can get it.

I'm from Australia but I still buy parts from these places.

Enjoy
Volkenstein
1 Super RHD Semi-Auto "Klaus"

inzgary

thank you very much for the links, i found some more of what im looking for im planning on pulling the motor in a few weeks and this is my daily driver so i want to have everything done at once so that motor wont have to come out again ive been working around the clutch problem by starting off in low

68AutoBug

Hi,
I just used a standard VW muffler {made in Denmark]
and the clamp kits are the same as the manuals, although I have flanges fitted to My heater boxes and muffler...

Just wondering why You need to start in Low gear??
I do use it when starting off at traffic lights...
Have you adjusted the clutch servo arm??

Have You checked the vacuum hoses??

cheers

Lee Noonan - 68Autobug -- Australia --

http://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug

ttp://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug
--- 68AutoBug  ---  Lee  ---  Australia ---
-- helping keep Air Cooled Volkswagen Automatics on the road -  Around the World --

Cobey

Hey there!

If you're in the states, I may be able to hook you up with some parts.  I hav a spare clutch disk(used), TC seal (new), and maybe the throw bearing (used).

Cheers!

Cobey
url=http://tinyurl.com/fa227](0)(=|=)(0)[/url] 68 Ghia Vert - Gina
(O\U|U/O) 72 Super AS Vert - Edel
(O\U|U/O) 71 Super - Herman

inzgary

im trying to find all new parts so i wouldnt put a used clutch disk in i would just rebuild mine if i cant find new thanks anyway cobey. as for the servo the servo needs adjusting because the car slams into gear when i put it in low or reverse but im certain the clutch is slipping when i start in 1st so i put    it in low for fast starting off or starting off going uphill. i have a new servo just sitting around should i replace it with this or save it because it has a working servo that just may need adjusting. when the engine is taken out i want to get everything done at once. i am looking for a shifter point also. what i am concerned about now is i have a new speedo from a standard the previous owner installed - no atf warning light , and after checking the atf fluid - went for a ride then checked it - it was over the top with atf there is way too much in there which was probably why the t/c seal blew - im still driving it like this as my only car but its coming along

68AutoBug

Hi,
If it slams into gear, that means You have too much vacuum from the carby...
as the carby I am using has too much vacuum and slams into gear..
I adjusted the control valve, but it just slowed the time the control valve opens...  so that didn't fix the problem..
adjust the clutch servo arm so You can get into reverse without grinding..
I adjusted my arm, [as i had taken it off??]  so it crunched going into reverse then slowly adjusted the arm until I can get into reverse without crunching... if I try reverse too fast it will still crunch ...
but slowly, no crunching...
You can have the original clutch plate relined..

Lee Noonan   68Autobug

http://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug
ttp://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug
--- 68AutoBug  ---  Lee  ---  Australia ---
-- helping keep Air Cooled Volkswagen Automatics on the road -  Around the World --

bookwus

Hiya inz,

To be perfectly honest, you are looking for some of the hardest to find of AutoStick parts.  And when you combine the difficulty of that task with a deadline ("planning on pulling the motor in a few weeks") you have set yourself an impossible task.
You basically have two alternatives in this situation.  You can (1) delay the pulling of your engine so that you can round up the parts you want in the condition you want them, or (2) you can lower your standards on the quality of the parts so that you can pull your engine on schedule.
Inz, it took me better than six months to find all the clutch components in order to redo my clutch.  And I have to tell you that I have a bunch of AutoStick related contacts.  When I did locate the parts, they were expensive - the throwout bearing alone cost $125.
But there is a bright side to all this....................  As has been mentioned previously in this thread - are you really sure you NEED to replace some or all of these parts?  You see, due to the effect of the torque converter these parts last darn near to forever.  When I pulled my original clutch disc (after over 100,000 miles) it still had better than 70% wear left.  I now keep it as a replacement.  Be absolutely sure you really need to have these parts before you spend a lot of time looking for them.
And finally, know this.............a well shifting AutoStick is really dependent on three separate things which need to work together.  The clutch freeplay must properly adjusted, the control valve needs to be properly adjusted, and the engine must be in tune.  If all three are spot-on (and assuming that your electrical and vacuum systems are in working order AND you have your small vacuum hose from the control valve hooked up to the correct vacuum port on your carburetor) you will have smooth shifting.
ike

70 AS Bug

inzgary

Unless the atf leak becomes a serious problem there is no deadline for pulling the engine. Ill wait until i have everything togethor before I pull the motor. May indeed be a few months. But i am willing to pay whatever it costs to find these parts in new condition, or the best possible condition. As for the system i think it works pretty darn well. It engages into gear instantly and shifts very smoothly - the only problem is it slams into gear for low or reverse and if i start in first i can feel it slipping especially starting uphill. When climbing a hill in second i have to floor it yet i still end up slowing down- im thinking thats just how it is though being a volkswagen so i shift down when i can.

68AutoBug

Hi Inzgary,
check Your engine oil, as if the two seals in the ATF-engine oil dual pump leaks, engine oil can go into the ATF system..

although its usually the other way round...
ATF fluid into the engine oil as the pressure in the ATF syatem is 52.6 PSI and the engine oil pressure is 26.5 PSI...

I pulled My imported German KMH speedo apart and I drilled out the hole for the ATF light and glued red clear plastic over the hole..
so now I have the ATF light...
You just need to be careful when drilling the hole...
as the metal is very thin...

if You pull a wire off the oil temp sender and touch it onto the gearbox, the light should work with the ignition on...
You just need to plug a light into the holder already on the rear of the speedo...   not sure whether all speedos had these extra lamp holders on the rear....

cheers

Lee Noonan - 68AutoBug - Australia -

http://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug
ttp://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug
--- 68AutoBug  ---  Lee  ---  Australia ---
-- helping keep Air Cooled Volkswagen Automatics on the road -  Around the World --

inzgary

i am losing oil slowly i keep checking it when i get gas and adding oil as needed. occasionally when starting it lets out a big puff of blue smoke but i dont see it as a big deal.