HELP: torque converter vibration-rattle..after installation.

[68AutoBug]

After having the engine ovrhauled, and just filling the automatic transmission tank with fluid to the correct level and starting the engine... there is a vibration/rattle from the torque converter,
Does the torque converter need bleeding to let out the AIR?
My Son tells Me He always fills a torque converter before installing it..
So what is MY Problem?? changes gear correctly etc... just this vibration rattle/knock... sounds a bit like a loose fan blade... but when the alternator is disconnected... the noise is still there...
HELP...
Lee Noonan   68AUTOBUG   Australia[/b]

[KevM]

Hi,

not sure how you got on with this one but I have just rebuilt my semi.

I think the things to check are that the flex plate nuts are done up properly, torque converter is seated properly although I can't see how it couldn't be, I reckon its possibly the flex plate that is causing a problem some where.
I didn't fill up my torque converter but as I am not quite on the road, fixing the oil pump later today as it has a tiny leak, I will just take it easy and keep it topped up but you can probably get away without filling it up.

This is an old post so you've probably fixed it now, what was the problem.

kind rgds

Kevin

[68AutoBug]

Hi Kevin,
I've just had the car painted silver metallic and still finishing the wiring up, after all the switches were put into the dash.  Having a problem finding the parts as I stripped the car 7 years ago!!!
From what I can find out from Automatic Mechanics, the stator is inside the torque converter, and its also splined.. and has to be put onto the shaft before the bolts are done up... the 1st time I did this, years ago when the engine was overhauled, The stator splines must have slipped onto the other shaft by itself...  Now [I am told] the stator would be damaged... as I did the 4 bolts up without the stator on the splines, therefore the stator would be bent-twisted etc... I have a spare torque converter which I am going to install when the temperature starts to drop... Its been 40+C every day here for weeks and before that 39+C for months..... This has been one of the hottest summers We have had... Soon as it cools down I'll start work on it again.. I have put the beading on the guards-fenders-wings and new tail lights on etc... I just hope that IS the cause... sounds like it may be...

I was going to add air conditioning to this beetle but its just too difficult..
I'll leave that until another time....

regards

Lee Noonan   68AutoBug

[KevM]

..<<39+C for months>>

you lucky sod, it's freezing over here, I would give anything for +39



I do recall something about the splines when I stuck my engine back in last weekend, it has to locate twice.

Good luck with it though

rgds

[68AutoBug]

I think We are getting ALL the heat that should be directed evenly over the rest of the world!!!!!
another few months and it will be -5C in the mornings only...
thats about as cold as it gets here...
although Zero is cold enough...
at least You can work on the cars in the cold...
probably not at -5 but 10C+ is OK... 20+C is great!!

I did notice as I did the 4 bolts up that there was tension on them...
I seem to remember that originally when I did them up, there was no tension, so that the splines were engaged OK...
So, it does look like I've damaged the stator...  it must be fairly fragile...
and out of Balance...  I'm really hoping that IS the problem...
I have bought 9 different VW manuals to find out everything about these unique cars...   I will try to find another spare torque converter etc...
Most of the cars over here have been converted to 4 speed...
Their unique chassis is also well sort after,....
Lee

[KevM]

Good luck with it, I guess I just got mine right more by luck than judgement.

Let me know how you get on with it.

I stopped my oil/atf pump leak last night.. I hope! It was as I suspected, gaskets weren't quite right so it wasn't too bad. Will be getting it timed up tonight and.. if it isn't too cold over the weekend :wink:  will put all the tin ware back and I should be up and running again.

as far as getting spares go don't forget Karmann Ghia centres. This is a good tip for anyone really, I spent ages phoning VW beetle places for bits and didn't get very far then I got put onto a guy who restores Karmann Ghias. They had the semi auto in them too which people often want ripped out so I got virtually a complete set of spare parts bar the vacuum tank which isn't a big problem really all out of a Karmann which, as I say, is the same as the beetle semi.

rgds
Kev

[68AutoBug]

Well last week I took the engine out and replaced the torque converter with a used one... with a small amout of water in it... took 20 liters of ATF to flush out the water...  I made sure the torque converter slipped onto two sets of splines...  When the engine was started, there was a loud banging noise... it turned out to be the allen key headed hi tensile stainless steel bolts that were 3-4mm longer than the originals..
I replaced them with the original bolts.. and No Noise...
things are finally starting to go right....
although the ATF pump is slightly leaking...

Lee

[bookwus]

Hiya Lee,

Good to hear that you're on the right track.  Where exactly is the pump leaking?

Mike

1970 AS Bug

[68AutoBug]

Hi Mike,
Its leaking just under the pump, the flat piece is wet with ATF..
I presume it is a gasket or two...
regards

Lee

[bookwus]

Hiya Lee,

IIRC you need three gaskets (and two seals) for the pump and its attachment to the crankcase.  Did you manage to find new ones?

Mike

1970 AS Bug

[68AutoBug]

Hi Mike,

I forgot to order them today, I'll have to do it tomorrow..
I have spare seals, and the originals were replaced when I assembled the pump a few years ago. Engine has done 15 minutes only..
I'll get a couple of spare gaskets.. I don't know why they are leaking..
Maybe one of the gaskets is broken.. guessing...
regards

Lee Noonan -- 68AutoBug --