Changing ATF/Trans Oils - Hints? Tips etc

68autobug · 23 March 2008, 04:35

Yes, One bolt/screw is more than double the length of all the other screws...
it has the same length thread then its smooth/no thread all the way to the end..
We believe it holds something in the gearbox in place...
so it could be important...

You can buy new gaskets for the bottom of the gearbox/transaxle

Lee in Australia

Welcome to the world of Automatic Volkswagens
http://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug

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didget69 · 23 March 2008, 18:44

Quote from: Bookwus on 23 March 2008, 04:24
Hiya Bryan,

Welcome to the forum! Always good to have one more AutoSticker online.

Your pan bolts were all the same length? Interesting. How about a little more information...........................

Are all of the bolts you removed the same? I'm thinking that one (or some) may have been replaced. Is that a possibility? And, what year car are you driving?

Car was a '72 Beetle - all the pan bolts were the same...

buggerfly · 27 March 2008, 06:27

This is probably a no brainer for most, but since I'm new to the world of AS, I have to ask.

Does the climate you live in affect the type of ATF you use?

Texas is mostly HOT and sometimes we have short cold spells, so I want to make sure I use the right ATF if there is a difference.

Bookwus · 27 March 2008, 06:39

Hiya Stephanie,

There is, I suppose, a possibility that under EXTREME (like way below zero) conditions the specs for ATF might indicate a change to another range of fluid.

However, in actuality Dexron (or any of its succesive variants) will handle most any weather Texas can throw at it. Remember that ATF is not (at least primarily) a lubricant but a medium which allows a transfer of power. It can handle heat and still remain "coherent". Pretty tough stuff actually.

68autobug · 27 March 2008, 11:37

Why does it have to smell like it does??

although that IS a better smell than Hypoid Diff & gearbox oil.... YUK..

I used an oil pump??
not sure what its called...
just like a large needle only with a rubber hose on the end...

it only holds about 1/2 a pint [guessing]
but the synthetic oil I bought did come in the 1 liter bottles with the long neck.
I put My finger over the end until I got close to the gearbox filler hole..
then once in , I squirted it all in...
luckily I didn't spill any [at $26 a liter]

I always go back and check the level a few days later
to make sure its full....
I like to have it dribbling out the hole....

Lee

Bookwus · 27 March 2008, 17:29

Hiya Stephanie,

Lee, next time you change out your ATF or your Hypoid be sure to buy a clothespin!

Actually Stephanie, Lee's comment reminded me of something you might want to check on concerning your ATF. Even though ATF is pretty tough stuff it will wear out eventually. It can collect dirt and moisture and it can be burnt or simply wear out. When one considers that it's quite likely your ATF has not been changed in 30 years, it's probably a good idea to take a close look at it now.

Good ATF will be a bright translucent red in color. When ATF ages it starts turning brownish. If it appears to be "cloudy" (not translucent) it has started picking up water. Burned ATF will also turn a bit brownish but will also smell burned. To know what "burn" smells like you'll probably need to take a whiff of fresh ATF for the sake of comparison. And as Lee will attest, none of it (burned or fresh) smells all that good.

If you find that your ATF is questionable, your best bet would be to change it out. The procedure for doing this appears below. This is Sean's (Volkenstein) procedure and it is (by far and away) the best way to go about it.

"ATF. Better with two people. 2 gallons of DEXRON 111 ATF + 1 bottle (or 10 litres, take your pick).

If it is the ATF that is discoloured, best thing to do is get the tank drained first and then flush the system. First things first. Clean the bottom banjo bolt and surrounding area. Then do the same at the hose connection on the filler neck.
So, place a large container under the tank bottom then undo the banjo bolt. It's advisable to give the spanner some sharp blows to "crack" it loose. Watch for the copper washers! Undo all the way and let all the ATF drain out. Refit the banjo bolt and washers (in sequence!) and give it 25ft/lb torque.
Next, undo the return line from the filler tank neck. Place a length of spare garden hose over it and run it into a bucket. Fill the ATF tank with fresh oil. Have a friend start the car and let it idle. Keep adding ATF to the tank as the old rubbish pumps out. Check the colour of oil coming out of the hose. Keep cycling new oil into the tank until the oil coming out of the hose is a beautiful light cherry red. Stop the engine. Check the ATF oil level with the dipstick. Say...1/2" below the top mark is good. Add or drain as necessary. Take the garden hose off and refit the hose to the filler neck. A firm wrist twist to tighten it. "

buggerfly · 28 March 2008, 01:24

Thanks for the info, I'll have to check the ATF when I get it back from the shop, not sure if they would have changed it or not. The car is shifting and from what I heard from a friend in the neighborhood of the shop it was going for a test drive this evening, so hopefully all goes well and I will have it back tomorrow so I can start the cleaning for the show saturday in Nacogdoches, Texas.

Airhead · 16 May 2008, 13:42

Where do you get the transmission plate gasket from?

Airhead

volkenstein · 16 May 2008, 14:52

Airhead,
The usual suspects. CIP1 or EVW or other large parts houses. RING cip1 if they list it as sometimes they don't have it. Or...you can buy a 1 ft square of 3/32 nitrile rubber sheet and cut 'n' wad punch your own then use a non hardening sealer with it like Permatex 3 or Gasgacinch.

HTH
Volkenstein

68autobug · 16 May 2008, 16:28

I bought a gasket off CIP1 or BFY ??

but I didn't use it, the old gasket was OK
so I used Permatex no3 non hardening sealant..

I'll have to check My transaxle oil one day...
as it didn't use the full 3 liters...

and it was empty of oil..

Lee

Rob T. · 17 May 2008, 04:46

Hi, A quick thing on teflon, it is not a sealant. It is a lubricant that allows a tapered thread tighten more and on pipes not leak so be careful on the tranny as it will let you over tighten the plugs with ease. Rob

68autobug · 17 May 2008, 10:15

I found the tapered plugs didn't need too much tightening...

although i used a pipe sealant this time... on the bottom plug..

the top filler plug doesn't really need anything
and doesn't need to be tightened too tight...

whoever had done up all the plugs on My 3 gearboxes must have used a breaker bar with 3ft of pipe on it..??

they must have thought they were tightening 4 inch water pipe... lol

Lee
Here i come and i've only got two pedals.....

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Airhead · 18 May 2008, 20:13

Checked my transmission sump today with the intention of replacing the oil, mine is held on with screw headed bolts, how do you torque these up is it necessary or would you tighten them firmly by hand, also I noticed my transmission has a drain plug at the bottom which looks all corroded (looks like a real pig to get out) if you remove the sump plate I assume its not necessary to remove the drain plug though I expect removing the drain plug would be less messy $:-\$

Airhead

68autobug · 19 May 2008, 06:34

its unlikely the drain plug would be rusted
unless it was super clean and salt attacked it>>

The plug still should undo..
its a tapered plug..

I took the plate off the bottom after first removing the plug..
but its still messy...

I had to take the phillips head screws off with Vice grips
as they were done up very tight..

I did them up with a large screwdriver that had a square stem
and i placed a crescent [shifting] spanner on them...

They must have been done up with an air rattle gun..

another gearbox i have has bolt heads in it...

the bolts/screws are 7mm metric
and one is a special long screw - the end doesn't have any thread..
its in the middle of the front..

LEE

PS: We have temperatures over 100F in the summer and below 30F in the winter mornings..

greenghia · 19 May 2008, 20:10

Hello, Unless you just want to see what's in there there is no reason to remove the plate. Just unscrew the plug and let the oil out. You aren't going to find the gasket at your FLAPS. I don't know if anyone has mentioned this before but remove the fill plug first. You would not want to get all the oil out and then have to spend days removing the fill plug before you could drive again. Many folks have done just that. Those plugs can be expensive to remove(skin from knuckles, bad looks from neighbors after poorly thought out verbal expressions, trips to store to buy tools, etc etc) Good luck and let us know how it works out!