Engine removal

volkenstein · 17 June 2011, 08:08

raysor,
Shroud off or shroud on? Car ramps aren't high, but everything should clear (engine on support on jack) if the shroud is off (and the oil cooler!!).

HTH
Volkenstein

raysor · 17 June 2011, 10:13

Quote from: volkenstein on 17 June 2011, 08:08
raysor,
Shroud off or shroud on? Car ramps aren't high, but everything should clear (engine on support on jack) if the shroud is off (and the oil cooler!!).

HTH
Volkenstein

Yes, they took everything off first. There is one chap in the picture pulling the engine on his own. The caption says you might need someone to lift the engine and remove the jack. Also to put some shiny magazines under the engine to help slide it out.
The book is VW Beetle and Transporter. Guide to Purchase and DIY Restoration.
(ISBN: 0854294740 )
Lindsay Porter.

raysor · 19 June 2011, 15:45

raysor · 19 June 2011, 15:47

68autobug · 21 June 2011, 04:20

Quote from: raysor on 17 June 2011, 10:13

Yes, they took everything off first. There is one chap in the picture pulling the engine on his own. The caption says you might need someone to lift the engine and remove the jack. Also to put some shiny magazines under the engine to help slide it out.
The book is VW Beetle and Transporter. Guide to Purchase and DIY Restoration.
(ISBN: 0854294740 )
Lindsay Porter.

That is an excellent book... I have one..

One of the best books around....

LEE

daddygo · 29 October 2011, 03:31

You don't need to cut the valance. Its all a matter of lifting the car high enough to clear the engine. Set the car up a moderate level with jack stands (shake the car on the stands to make sure it won't fall on you.) Lower the engine. I lower mind onto skate boards so I can roll it out. Then lift the car to its highest level on the jack stands. Taking the air filter off helps. But if your jack stands are tall enough, you should have clearand to roll the engine out.

raysor · 29 October 2011, 20:38

Quote from: daddygo on 29 October 2011, 03:31
You don't need to cut the valance. Its all a matter of lifting the car high enough to clear the engine. Set the car up a moderate level with jack stands (shake the car on the stands to make sure it won't fall on you.) Lower the engine. I lower mind onto skate boards so I can roll it out. Then lift the car to its highest level on the jack stands. Taking the air filter off helps. But if your jack stands are tall enough, you should have clearand to roll the engine out.

Do you think it is high enough? (Reply #18). At the moment the fan shroud, carburettor, engine lid etc. is off

raysor · 29 October 2011, 20:51

http://www.flickr.com/photos/62408207@N03/5921764979/in/photostream/

daddygo · 29 October 2011, 23:50

Doesn't look high enough to me. The ramps will not give you the clearance that a good set of jack stands will.
But your flicker picture with the doghouse and generator removed will give you several inches more clearance.

raysor · 07 May 2012, 12:04

Got the engine out yesterday, well someone from Volkszone took it out. About 1hr 40 mins. The worst thing was getting the bolts undone holding the torque converter. They are splined heads. Need to buy engine stand now.

nypater · 08 May 2012, 02:37

That's just the beginning.
I took mine out myself. I have the car on four jack stands as I'm doing a ton to it.
When I dropped the engine I still had to jack up the car more and then I slid it out the right wheel well as that was where the most room was.
Now I'm spending time de-mucking everything. Rebuilt the autostick wire harness as well.
Listen to this! I found the nuts that secure the servo laying in gunk on the housing!
There will be a point very soon though when I will have to stop fixing and get back to driving.

68autobug · 08 May 2012, 09:56

Hi
Great news Guys.
I have had the fan housing off a few times so, its easy now.
You need to take off the engine lid brackets so You can lift up the fan housing.
Once the fan housing. alternator/generator etc are off You won't need to lift
the body so high to get the engine out.
originally the engine was a very basic affair and was easy to get out but in later years
as everything got bigger and the engine bay got more crowded, its a bit harder to take out.
I'm lucky I have a removable rear valance... so the engine just comes straight back.
I haven't seen the splined bolts for the torque conveter as all mine have had the hexagon
head. There isn't much room in there, but if You are careful and have the correct tools
its not too bad.. making sure You don't drop a torque converter bolt into the housing is MORE
scarey... lol All the manuals say to be careful..

cheers

LEE

raysor · 08 May 2012, 10:17

Everything was removed from engine and lid removed as you can see from the Flickr picture. The splined nuts were a five minute problem (just to figure out what they were) but a socket fitted just nicely and they came out pretty easily. I think the distributor cap just caught on the valance but we lifted the rear of the car about an inch by hand (just on the suspension) and it squeezed under.
Not much room between back of car and garage doors.
Probably take off the exhaust and all the tinware etc. then take the engine to one of our houses. Need to buy an engine stand and then have a bash at reconning it. As you know my son drove it without oil and sounds like the big ends have gone but don't know how much more damage.