Engine Removal

autognasher · 27 October 2011, 23:23

Good evening VWARS,

Given the amount of oil leaking from my engine I have decided to remove it and change all the seals. I will be using the advice contained in this section to complete the work.

The purpose of the enquiry is :

- what must I particularly be careful to do/not do when removing the engine

- based on your experience having removed the engine what are the "must do" tasks/things to replace

cheers

Brian

eraser · 28 October 2011, 01:03

undo the torque converter from the flexplate before fully removing the engine

I now have an rear apron-less 68 beetle due to this

.

Also take super care removing the ATF lines, dont bend, kink or twist them.

68autobug · 28 October 2011, 04:02

Hi Brian
things to renew...:

engine crankshaft oil seal...
torque converter oil seal.. evw

atf/engine oil pump seals ... evw
exhaust gaskets .. inlet manifold gasket.. inlet manifold rubber connectors if cracked at all..
tappet cover gaskets .. oil change gasket set..
also the air seals on the spark plug leads...
I always renew the ATF after engine removal. I never reuse ATF.. oil or brake fluid..

use two spanners when undoing atf pipes and hoses.. so the pipes/hoses don't twist..

ATF will pour out when You pull the Torque converter off the gearbox... need a dish underneath..

cheers

LEE in Australia

autognasher · 28 October 2011, 10:51

Thanks once again great advice - a few more Qs

- is there a method for removing the torque converter oil seal (where is it ??)
- is there a particular ATF that suits this transmission

cheers
Brian

raysor · 28 October 2011, 11:10

Yes be careful when removing the ATF lines. I buggered the one from pump to the reservoir (where it goes through the tinware). Also if you remove the fan shroud don't forget the link to the flap from the thermostat (?), which I did!

68autobug · 28 October 2011, 11:20

Hi Brian

Yes, the ATF MUST be DEXRON.. it will have it written on the container
the torque converter fits onto two splines ..
the seal sits in the gearbox and seals onto the torque converter..

once the torque converter is disturbed/moved..
the old hard seal would leak if reused...
so, its always replaced...

pic: show torque converter sitting on the gearbox shaft
pic: shows the torque converter seal - fitted.. seal needs to be peened/punched 3 times to make sure it doesn't come off -
once the seal has been fitted ... place a few drops of ATF on the lips of the seal [between the lips] for lubrication.
I use My finger to do this...
pic: shows the torque converter other side... two sets of splines - and the sealing bush..

cheers

LEE

autognasher · 08 November 2011, 21:40

Thanks Lee, raysor and eraser.

Now awaiting the arrival of the parts from EVW taking an eternity to get to the UK !! 9 days so far.

Does anybody have a link to an idiots guide to rear valance removal

Thanks

Brian

volkenstein · 09 November 2011, 04:16

Brian,
The mod (rear valance) is a popular one and generally occurs AFTER you have cleared the debris. Plenty of advice/tips on "how to" abound in the interweb.

You should start by dropping off your rear guards, get some 6mm drill bits, small and large hacksaws, a good wire wheel and a sharp knife. A ton of spot welds to drill out. You need to decide "how" you are going to do it. That'll determine what else you need to do. A MIG welder is a must have/beg/borrow/steal IMHO.

The TC seal can be pried off, refitting it should involve either clamping it in place (downward pressure) or smacking it into place with a BFH and some sort of a guide and THEN you pein it in place with a blunt chisel or some such. Forget to pein it and it WILL leak like a seive (more like a tap faucet!!).

Regards
Volkenstein

68autobug · 09 November 2011, 05:10

Hi Sean and Brian
it wasn't too hard to take off from memory... [circa 1997]
just drilled all the spot welds off..
and chisel etc whatever off... lol

there is another way to do it Brian
You cut the back off and weld brackets on..
much better idea if Your valance is OK..
what is Your email address?
I'll send the pics over..

cheers

LEE

Jeff54Griffin · 09 November 2011, 14:44

Lee,
would you post the pics here also as I want to do this mod to my wife's 69 AS that I seem to NEED to drop the engine to check something out, modify, enhance, fix,,,,,,, you get it I'm sure.

Do you or Sean have a pic of the peening to the TC seal, I'm going to replace mine and am TFS to figure out where to do the peening.
Thanks,
Jeff

68autobug · 09 November 2011, 15:00

OK Jeff

I'll do that later today... 1am local now

cheers

Lee

autognasher · 10 November 2011, 23:13

Ditto Jeffs request, thanks in advance Lee - aim to pull the engine next week the parts have at last arrived.

Will probably drill out the spot welds/disc cut the section to remove. Do you usually permanently refix i.e. weld or bolt in place for future removal ??

Note : If its your first time for UK purchasers of parts from the USA beware there is 20 percent VAT surcharge on parts AND postage costs, plus the good old Royal Mail charge a further £13.50 for the service !!

68autobug · 11 November 2011, 05:34

Quote from: autognasher on 10 November 2011, 23:13
Ditto Jeffs request, thanks in advance Lee - aim to pull the engine next week the parts have at last arrived.

Will probably drill out the spot welds/disc cut the section to remove. Do you usually permanently refix i.e. weld or bolt in place for future removal ??

Note : If its your first time for UK purchasers of parts from the USA beware there is 20 percent VAT surcharge on parts AND postage costs, plus the good old Royal Mail charge a further £13.50 for the service !!

YIKES

that IS bad... I rang a company in the UK many years ago asking about some VW parts.
they told Me that they took the VAT off the prices as the parts were shipped direct to the airport..

that makes buying cheap parts from the USA... No Longer cheap... ??

You can buy fiberglass rear valances in Australia...
so, they are usually just rebolted into place..

My Son, bolted His original metal valance back into place..

I'll post these other pics today when I find them...
I believe its a much better easier way....

cheers

LEE

OldChevyGuy · 11 November 2011, 15:41

Just removed my rear apron yesterday for the first time. Took maybe 30 minutes. There is a special spot weld cutter (it's a 3/8" hole cutter with a spring loaded pin in the middle) that works perfectly. You only need to drill through the valance, leaving the body intact. Then a little chisel work.

Pat

68autobug · 12 November 2011, 04:09

Hi Guys

photos I promised You... photos took a bit of finding..
cutting the rear valance off a different way
the rear valance will be much stronger than the original done this way.. IMHO

I haven't taken into account... the vacuum and ATF Tanks....
just thought of them.... they may be a problem...
depending on where You cut..

Good Luck

LEE