AS Newbie

[volkenstein]

Nancy,
          My 2 cents, everyone else, feel free to comment!

I'd yank the engine first and then the trans (with, fingers crossed for you, the TC attached/held to the TRANS).
I'm recommending this method simply becuase the trans is wider than the frame horns and mostly I don't have the
(never!) access to a suitable hoist. You've stripped the donk (take off the oil cooler!) down to a minumum whcih will
help no end. Since I don't know your particular set-up, removal of the LHS rear wheel (as viewed from front of car)
will help with dropping the engine. The TC and TRANS should stay together. Once those two are out you can attack
them seperately.


Volkenstein

[nlorntson]

I'm getting the transmission back together but I neglected to photograph the clutch plate seal while it was still installed.  I've got a replacement and and ready to put it all back together.

Does the top of the clutch plate seal (the side with part number/writing) face the bearing or away from the bearing?

Or better said, does it face the bottom of the clutch plate or the bell housing?

I have the Bentley but the pictures is not clear enough... 

Thanks!

[nlorntson]

OK, figured it out, seal goes with flat side (writing side) facing the clutch plate.

[68autobug]

great news..
There are straight oil coolers on ebay.. that could be used for the ATF...
they are straight with fins [heatsinks] on them..
they come in different lengths...

cheers

LEE in Australia

[nlorntson]

After a LONG time of chipping away at getting this car going, I've finally gotten the following done:

Complete engine rebuild (bearings on out)
Complete new wiring harness
Rebuilt all AS Transmission parts (not the gear box, just the AS pieces, seals, etc.)
Redone brakes
Redone fuel system

I'm ready to fire it up for the first time in nearly 40 years.

I'm not familiar with the neutral safety switch so I have a couple of questions:

1.  If the NSS is bad does it prevent starting or prevent turning the engine over all together?

2.  To prime the torque converter I assume I need to crank the engine a fail amount or at least until I see a flow of ATF coming in the reservoir via the return line?

3.  Any other cautions before I give it a go?

[68autobug]

Hi

   
• welcome back.. the neutral safety switch cuts the power going to the starter motor solenoid.. so if its in gear the starter motor won't turn..  I have never heard of anyone having neutral switch problems, so it seems its a good quality switch with very heavy duty contacts.. 
• 
  
• I use a relay for the starter circuit located next to the starter motor, so the neutral switch [and the ignition switch] only has a very small amount of current go thru it.. so no burning of the contacts and more current to the starter motor solenoid. [also called a hot start relay kit] plus the current from the battery doesn't have to go all the way thru the ignition switch and back to the starter solenoid..
• It just goes from the battery thru the relay to the solenoid..
• I have never ever had any ATF or ATF pump problems when restarting the engine, although the time since it was started was only about 6 years..  Once You fill the ATF tank up to the top level on the dipstick, leave the cap off so the ATF can flow down thru the suction pipe and into the pump..  You could undo the small pressure pipe banjo bolt on the gearbox housing to bleed the air out, and help the ATF fill the pump and pipe..
• You could disconnect the coil and turn the engine over until the ATF pours back into the ATF Reservoir tank.. just under the dipstick cap...
• once the ATF flows back into the tank the system and torque converter should all be full of ATF.
• Just a couple of questions
• You did peen or punch the sides of the Torque converter seal?  so it won't come off.
• You replaced all the vacuum hoses?
• I hope everything goes well for You.. Best of Luck

Lee in Australia

   

[nlorntson]

I did peen the seal, yes.

OK so it's turning over but not catching which is fine.  I can turn it over for 10 seconds or so and run around back to see that some amount of ATF is gurgling back into the reservoir so I think that's a good sign.  Plus this is probably good to circulate engine oil too.

I did not change out the coil so I'll have to check that spark.  I filled up the carb bowl with gas and squirted some down the carb and still no pop.

Should I expect any thing other than the oil and generator light to come on with the key?

[68autobug]

Hi
Sounds good with the ATF...
Your oil light should have gone off after a few seconds also.. once oil pressure was obtained..
with fuel in the carby etc... sounds like no spark..
check to make sure the carby isn't flooding... that is fuel pouring down the throat which will also stop the engine...  open the top flap with Your finger.. the auto choke should be trying to close it..
and look down to see if there is fuel flowing down in there.. although hard to do with the engine not going.. You would need someone to check while the engine is being turned over..
Still, more likely to be loss of spark..  Do You have points or electronic ignition in the distributor?
check the lead from the coil to the distributor..  make sure its pushed in fully both ways...
Do You have wire spark plug leads?? or silicone leads??
If they are silicon leads, they can break internally when pulling the leads off the distributor..
I had this happen with brand new leads last year.. they are very fragile..
another thing, have You checked that the rotor inside the distributor goes round when You move the crankshaft? naturally the spark plugs won't fire if it doesn't..  also the points gap is correct?
and lastly, as You said the coil... You can test the coil with a multi meter if You have one..
Have You checked to see that You have power at the coil +, idle cutoff solenoid, auto choke, and the control valve??
Let Me know how You go..

cheers

Lee in Australia

[nlorntson]

I've not yet put fuel in the tank so just the fuel in the carb bowl is there.  I'm pretty sure the no start is not fuel related as I'm not getting the slightest hint of a pop.

My money is on a 45 year old coil being weak or dead.  It figures as it is the only maintenance part I did not change out.   

Is there a way to test a coil off the car?  I have a couple lying around; I'll have to see what voltage they are (they may be 6V not 12V since this is the only 12V car I have).

I did check that when I turned the key to the start position I got power to the coil, choke, and solenoid on the AS Valve (I can hear that clicking when I turn the key).  I do not have a idle cutoff on the carb.

I'm running bone stock carb and distributor so points and condenser (both brand new). 

[68autobug]

Hi again
Most coils have the voltage stamped on the bottom or on the top...
First check the distributor cap that it has the carbon button on the top inside..
The rotor button inside the distributor can burn out, as it has a resistor built into it for Radio interference suppression..  but if it was working before it should be OK.. it can be tested with a multimeter.. between the center and the end of the copper strip.. 4.82 K Ohms

First 12v coil I have here measures 2.8 Ohms between the two small terminals/screws. + & -
and between the center conductor and the + terminal 10.81 k Ohms and about the same between the center and the - terminal.
Second 12v [Bosch SU12R]  coil measures 1.1 Ohms between the two small terminals.. and 14.31k Ohms between the center conductor and the + and same with the - terminal.. 
This is a LOW resistance coil to be used with a resistor..
Third 12v coil is a 3.3 Ohm resistance between the two small terminals.. As this is fitted to My engine I can't remember the other measurements.
Now, as every Coil I've tested has come up with different measurements, these will be just a guide... so expect similar measurements but not identical..

The points, condensor and rotor all work at 6v or 12 volts.. The coil however won't last long if its 6 volts.. it will be like a short circuit... and burn out instantly or get very hot then burn out.
[I'm guessing, as I have never hooked one up] If the coil has burnt out, You won't get the 1.1 or 3.3 ohm etc measurement..  it won't show any resistance..  at all between the small terminals. If a 12 volt coil is hooked up back to front.. power wire to - instead of +.. it will still work but with a reduced spark..
You need to measure the voltage at the coil, with ignition ON, and when the starter is operated to see what voltage You have.. to make sure You have still have Power with the starter engaged..
Also, You said You heard the control valve click when you turned the ignition ON.. 
This shouldn't happen.. it should only click when You move the gear lever..
the click is the same as pushing a clutch pedal to the floor.. clutch activated..

I hope this helps...

Lee in Australia

[nlorntson]

After three weekends I've still got some electrical problems.  Here is what I'm seeing:

1.  Turn the key to ON and both rear turn signal lights come on constant.  If I depress the brake slightly, they go out but come back on if I press the brake pedal further.  Also the brake warning light in the dash comes on until I press the brake pedal and then it goes out.  I have double checked that the lights in the tail light are wired correctly.

2.  When I turn the key to ON, I hear the control valve solenoid click

3.  The engine does crank when the car is in neutral and will not crank when it is in gear

4.  Coil has power to it and spark out of it.

5.  Backup lights work with key in ON position

6.  Emergency flashers work on the front as expected.

7.  No tail lights come on with the headlight switch but the front lights do come on.

8.  No backup lights come on (I think...I have to double check this)

I'm not sure where to begin.  I'm pretty confident I have the new wiring harness in correctly.  I am NOT confident that I have the AS harness connected into the main harness however and this is where I think my problem is.

Any suggestions on where to start?

[nlorntson]

Well, some progress!  After a lot of head scratching I figured out that I had made two mistakes; I had the brake and turn signal wires reversed at the tail light and I had used an "H" connector instead of two separate connectors to connect the right tail light harness turn (green/black) and brake (black/red) light to the main harness wires.

I still have a brake warning light circuit issue to resolve and figure out why it won't fire.

[volkenstein]

Nancy,
          My molden R.O.T is to resolve one issue at a time where it concerns electrics.

Not being able to start in gear means your NSS "appears" to be working. A second test is with the car in gear - try starting, if it doesn't you still should be able to activate the solenoid to shift.

Your brake warning light seems at first glance to be a switch fault. Besides a multimeter, have you got a circuit probe thingy?

HTH
Sean

[68autobug]

Hi Nancy and Sean

I would just disconnect the brake switches and the test lamp etc until You get the engine started.
As Sean said, the engine does not turn over when in gear.. its a safety start switch..
but maybe unplug it too, until You get the engine running..
We didn't get the stop lamp testing switch etc in Australia... [brake master cylinder was very different to Ours]
The control valve should not make a noise [shouldn't activate until the gear shifter is moved forwards or backwards]
On the floor next to the gear shifter , the wire going to the switch in the gear shifter, has a connection, I believe they all would...  undo this wire too...

Now. with the brakes, gear shifter, neutral switch all off
It will make it easier to find the problem with the engine...

make sure the idle solenoid has power and is working... on the carburetor..
auto choke has power...

cheers

Lee in Australia