Type 3 1776 in a beetle?

Bookwus · 29 March 2008, 07:24

Hiya Stephanie,

One thing that a new-to-you VW owner has to understand is that (with very few exceptions) you are going to have problems of this sort. It takes a while to iron out all the problems that developed and went unattended by previous owners. In fact I've heard this described as a "year of Hell" before doing the fixes which resulted in a reliable daily driver. This just goes part in parcel with any old car.

As to your starter problem............could be what's been termed a "hot start" syndrome. Your solenoid needs about 10 volts to kick the starter into action. If your wiring, connections, and grounds are corroded resistance may be cutting down your battery's 12 volts closer to 10 by the time it reaches the solenoid. This is especially a problem in Busses where the wiring runs are longer than that of a Bug, but Bugs are prone to this also. Heat from running causes solenoid and starter parts to expand which makes for more mechanical resistance. That, in turn, requires more juice to kick everything over. And if your electrical system is only delivering 10 volts..........no start.

If you do have 12 volts at the battery AND you do have the hot start syndrome, you should be able to start the car when it cools down. Another approach is to give the solenoid and starter a good whack with a hammer. That will often loosen things up so that the solenoid can do its job.

Another possibility is that the solenoid is just kaput. Or possibly the starter has given up the ghost.

All of the above scenarios are more likely than the voltage regulator being the problem. However if the VR has gone south, it could drain the battery enough to give you a no start situation. I'd think your GEN light would have come on though were that the case.

buggerfly · 30 March 2008, 06:40

Mike,

You're right about the voltage regulator, but we replaced it anyway because it was rusty. It was the starter, I was told it has a dead spot in it and when I turned the belt for the generator it started right up, just one more thing to replace. While it was in the shop they discovered that the control arm bushings were bad and the front end was shaking over 35MPH, they fixed that problem and it drives GREAT!!!! At this rate I will have a new car in no time.
I figured it would take some time for me to get used to the AS, but it is so easy to drive. Do all of the AS have the so called "auto stick hop" when you first put it into gear?
Any knowledge on exhausts? We got a new one and my dad said it wouldn't work because of some round parts that connect to the heater channels? and it wouldn't allow it to hook up properly. Way out of my knowledge department on vehicles so I don't have a clue.

Bookwus · 30 March 2008, 09:36

Hiya Stephanie,

AutoStick hop?

Hmmmmm.....is this a sudden or abrupt shift into gear from a dead stop? Especially noticeable when shifting into reverse? If this sounds familiar, then no, this is not how an AutoStick is supposed to shift. Typically, the source of this problem is that the small vacuum hose from the control valve is hooked up to the wrong vacuum port on the carburetor. A VERY easy fix in most cases. We would be able to tell you if this is the case in an instant if we had a picture of your carburetor showing all the vacuum connections.

About the exhaust situation..............we probably need some more precise terminology. Here's why....from the rear end of your heater channels to the chrome tips of your exhaust there are basically five parts.
1. Y-tube adapter
2. Hot air heater hose
3. Heat exchanger
4. Muffler
5. Exhaust tips

I'm thinking that your dad is likely referring to number 2 above. These (there are two) .are often missing or in poor repair. If they are gone there is no way for heated air to travel from the heat exchangers into the passenger cabin of the car. Heater and exhaust parts are easy finds and usually pretty reasonable in price.

buggerfly · 01 April 2008, 06:09

Yes, it does it when you first shift into a gear,either reverse or 1st, once in gear it drives normally even after a dead stop.
I don't have any pictures of the carberator right now, but I can tell you that the vacuum hose is connected in front of the carberator and there is a rubber boot on the piece on the left side. I remember the hose being hooked up on the left when I got it, so I wasn't sure if it was correct or not. I believe there is a picture of the engine that you may be able to see how it was hooked up at first when I posted the pictures for Lee.

The exhaust I found out will work, the part I was referring to is called the "kidney" and I was told you can bypass it with the after market exhaust and run the heater hose straight from the fan shraud to the heater pipe and clamp it.

Bookwus · 01 April 2008, 07:03

Hiya Stephanie,

Hmmmmm....well, it sounds as if your vacuum hose is hooked up correctly.

It may well be that you need to a bit of tweaking on the adjust screw on the control valve or/and a possible clutch adjustment.

buggerfly · 03 April 2008, 06:11

Mike,

So the vacuum hose is suppose to be on the front and not the left side? The guy that fixed it said something about the clutch being tight and it would jump when you first put it into gear, guess that was what he was referring to.

Any suggestions on the stock distributor? I haven't been able to find it and am having trouble with the 009, car doesn't want to start sometimes and has a hard time getting going so it will warm up to idle.

Bookwus · 03 April 2008, 12:03

Hiya Stephanie,

Your 34PICT3 carburetor should have two vacuum ports which face directly to the rear of the car as you look into the engine compartment. The small vacuum hose from the control valve should be hooked into the vacuum port on the right side. Here's a picture of that set-up...................

Notice where the small hose is connected? Just to the left of its connection point on the carb, the other vacuum is capped off. Make sure your hose is hooked to the port on the right side.

As to distributors............finding the original can take some looking. And when you do find it, it may prove to be worn out. You might consider doing what I did. I chose to run an SVDA (Single Vacuum Dual Advance) distributor. That's it in the picture above. I got mine from aircooled.net. An excellent unit and it gives great performance. You might want to check that out. And notice that its vacuum hose is connected to the vacuum port on the left side of the carburetor.

buggerfly · 05 April 2008, 01:24

I believe my carb only has 1 port in the front and 1 port on the left, so by that I'm guessing it should be connected to the port in the front.
Since its raining here right now, I will try and get a picture tomorrow and post so you can see what i'm referring to.

volkenstein · 05 April 2008, 01:37

Buggerfly,

QuoteI believe my carb only has 1 port in the front and 1 port on the left

You need to drill your carb for the CV feed. If it isn't connected like Mike's pic then you have an incorrect vacuum signal/strength and therefore "hop". The very first topic in this section by "Eddie" (page 9 or 10 or so) and one or two other posts cover the "how to".

HTH
Volkenstein

Bookwus · 05 April 2008, 05:41

Hiya Stephanie,

Ditto what Sean just posted and this also..............just for clarity's sake. When referring to parts on the VW think about the entire car when you say front or rear.

Quote from: buggerfly on 05 April 2008, 01:24
I believe my carb only has 1 port in the front and 1 port on the left, so by that I'm guessing it should be connected to the port in the front.
Since its raining here right now, I will try and get a picture tomorrow and post so you can see what i'm referring to.

I think what you actually mean to say is, ".......my carb only has 1 port in the rear and 1 port on the left, so by that I'm guessing it should be connected to the port in the rear........"

As Sean mentioned you will have to drill a new port in your carburetor if you are correct about the hose placement. Don't worry, it's really quite an easy job. In all liklihood a PO has changed out your original AS carburetor for a replacement without a proper vacuum port.

buggerfly · 05 April 2008, 06:10

Yes Mike, you are correct. I guess because the part is facing me I assume it is the front when technicaly it is the rear.

Guess the whole thing with the switched out parts goes to show the PO or their mechanic didn't know squat about the auto stick. I always have to remember to ask my parts guy when I get stuff and remind him that I have an auto stick so I get the right part the first time.

If the other port is plugged and not used then why do I have to drill another hole in the carburetor?

Bookwus · 05 April 2008, 06:35

Hiya Stephanie,

The problem with buying the "correct" part is simply that there are no more correct parts. Carburetors built specifically for AutoStick use ceased to be manufactured in 1975 when VW ended AutoStick production. What has been available since then is a carburetor built for use with a manual transmission. Many AutoStick owners have replaced their original worn-out AutoStick only carburetors with one intended for use with a manual transmission. Because the proper vacuum port for an AutoStick hook-up is missing from these replacement carburetors, the POs hooked up that small vacuum hose to the only vacuum port that could find, the left rear port. That port draws its vacuum "signal" from below the butterfly. This vacuum is way too strong for the control valve and it makes the shifts immediate and abrupt. The vacuum from this port is so strong that adjusting the control valve will have little to no effect on the shifting action.

You have to drill another port to tap into the vacuum above the butterfly. That's the vacuum signal the control valve wants and needs in order to function correctly.

buggerfly · 05 April 2008, 06:39

ok, I found the past post that Volkenstein was referring to, guess its time for my dad to get involved as I dont want to mess the carb up. I believe the post said a 2mm hole and a "jet"?

Bookwus · 05 April 2008, 06:56

Hiya Stephanie,

Drilling out the boss on the right rear of the 34PICT3 is actually very easy. The carb in the picture above went through that process.

Start be drilling into the boss with a 3/16 bit. Drill into the right rear boss about halfway through the body of the carburetor. Then complete the hole all the way through to the inside throat (venturi) of the carburetor with a 9/64. The brass vacuum nipple that you will tap into the 3/16 hole will bottom out where the 9/64 hole begins (this will also give you a good idea of how exactly how far to drill the 3/16 portion of the hole). The brass vacuum nipple should be of the restrictor type (the hole in the nipple is narrowed to restrict the vacuum - however, if you cannot find a restrictor type vacuum nipple, all is not lost. Because you changed down to a 9/64 bit to complete the hole you have already built in a restrictor.

There are no actual jets involved in this procedure - just the restrictor nipple.