AS Clutch System

jody · 28 June 2007, 03:36

When an AS sits up for over a year will the clutch "stick" to another surface like a 4-speed clutch will stick, glue, flash rust itself to the flywheel

Since I've got the engine out ( it locked up from sitting ) would this be something to look into ( 98,000 OG miles ) or doesnt it stick in place

I'd like to get this car on the road with as little work as possible. I still have a paint job to do on it also ( one man shop, so I do it all ). Thanks for the help.

Jody

volkenstein · 28 June 2007, 04:20

Jody,
Yes it can, loosening it up is more difficult than in a 4 speed. Easier to check once the car is going, but since your torque converter is out, drop the trans, drain & disconnect the bellhousing to examine. Have a read of the long "another autostick problem" thread.

Volkenstein

jody · 28 June 2007, 05:20

Volkenstein,

I'll have a go at that thread. Started it once but didn't think it applied to me until I thought about the clutch disc part. Thanks for the heads up on that one !!!

So I understand this site has been down for awhile ?? I did notice that there were very few threads and I believe I've had this site in my favorites for over a year. Never needed it until now but I have sent people with AS's over to seek help. Glad to see that it's back up AND with knowledgeable wrenches manning the lines !!!! My hat's off to ya !!! And thanks again for the help. I'm sure I'll be back with more questions.

Jody

jody · 28 June 2007, 06:31

Volkenstein,

Just went out to the shop and got out my Bentley and opened it to the lily white pages of the AS and was able to wrap my brain around what you were saying. Doesn't look too bad. Two types of fluid, lots of wires and a whole lot of paying attention. Anyway, I'll be back with reports from time to time. Trying to build two VW Trikes, freshen up my '69 Baja and this Super engine and trans. Where can I buy a few more hours a day at ??

Thanks

Jody

jody · 03 July 2007, 04:40

Well I got the trans out today. Not too hard. Vacuum can tested good. Whew !! I'll take the trans apart tomorrow to check and unstick ( if necessary ) the clutch disc. OK, I've got a switch at the nose that I believe is for back-up lights, one at the bell-housing I believe is for the ATF temp light. Now I've got one on the pass. side, mid way in the gearbox. Is that for gear oil temp

If so which light on the dash is it ? More tomorrow.

Jody

68autobug · 03 July 2007, 08:28

Hi,
the switch on the nose right at the end of the gearbox is the neutral start switch,
so you can't start the car in gear...

the other switch is the temperature sender switch...
on 68 beetles there are two atf temperature senders and they go to this switch

on 1972 and later models the gearbox has only one ATF temperature sender
and My manual shows it is connected to the ATF lamp in the dash...
VW found that the ATF doesn't get hot enough in Drive 1...
so only a sender for Drive 2...

I'm not sure on the reverse switch...
as 1968 beetles didn't come with them...

Lee 68Autobug

http://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug

volkenstein · 03 July 2007, 11:45

Lee,
Jody has a single temp sender gearbox, so the other switch if it's a two prong is the reverse light switch. The US cars had a lot more gizmo's and doohickeys fitted than AUS ones.

Jody,
Probably a good idea when you inspect the clutch is to rotate the carrier plate and feel for roughness in the bearing. There's only a single row 6004 C3 doing the duties. Hi-kwal SKF, but since you're there....

And it is an unmerciful sod to get out and probably not worth your trouble if all seems smooth. I regret doing mine

, wish I had a press!. I'll be paying someone to fit it back up!

Speaking of trikes 'n' autosticks, a former member hasn't joined back up but he and his friend ran auto-stick trikes. His name was/is Dennis Flora and his mate is Bob. A lesson learned from them was that bling braided hosing that restricts ATF flow is not good!!!

Enjoy
Volkenstein

jody · 04 July 2007, 05:00

Well I took the trans apart and found the clutch disc stuck to the pressure plate side real good, so that was a good check. "O" rings in very good shape, no cracking or hardening so I lubed them up and put them back. Throw out bearing sounds and feels perfect as well as the bearing in ( at ) the output side. Volkenstein, is that the bearing you mentioned as " a single row 6004 C3 " ??

OK, here's the sensors that I have:
1 prong at the hose connection. I'm guessing ATF Temp.
2 prong mid trans.

3 prong at the nose. Back-up and safety neutral

I just hope they all work. So now I'm just waiting on the converter seal and pan gasket. Should be here later this week.

Yes I know ( of ) Dennis Flora. He is ( or was ) a member of BTW as am I. I've been a member for 10 years now, and building and riding VW powered trikes for 12. He might not know that this site is back up and running.

Oh, I'll be getting new vacuum hoses too. When I was disconnecting them they just crumbled in my hands !!!

Jody

volkenstein · 04 July 2007, 06:00

Jody,
The "output side" is the 6004 C3 is in your bellhousing, underneath the Torque Converter support tube (that the TC seal goes onto). It's what the carrier plate spins in/on.

1. Yes, that's it
2. Backup/Reverse
3. Neutral Safety switch. Also the gearstick wire runs to this connection.

Cool that you know of Dennis, I figured he might have popped up somewhere in the Trike world!

Regards
Volkenstein

68autobug · 24 July 2007, 10:53

Quote from: volkenstein on 03 July 2007, 11:45

Probably a good idea when you inspect the clutch is to rotate the carrier plate and feel for roughness in the bearing. There's only a single row 6004 C3 doing the duties. Hi-kwal SKF, but since you're there....

And it is an unmerciful sod to get out and probably not worth your trouble if all seems smooth. I regret doing mine , wish I had a press!. I'll be paying someone to fit it back up!

enjoy
Volkenstein

Hi Sean,
that answers My question about replacing the 6004C3

Lee - 68autobug

http://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug

bruce_childress · 30 July 2007, 21:53

((((1. Yes, that's it
((((2. Backup/Reverse
((((3. Neutral Safety switch. Also the gearstick wire runs to this connection.

i kept having problems with the gearstick wire, so i left it off the netural safety switch, so i could start in second and keep on getting it on down the road.
eventually went to a standard shifter and ran the ground wire (gearshift wire) up to a pushbutton on the handlebars.
bruce
"another AS triker"
lifetime BTW member (NC/VA)

68autobug · 01 August 2007, 05:30

Now that IS something different...

Lee - 68AUTOBUG - Australia -

http://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug

jody · 01 August 2007, 22:39

Hey Guy's,

Back again. Got it running, ( more later on this ), but i can shift to all gears and get no movement at all. There is power to the CV all the time, so would that mean the points at the shifter need cleaning and adjusting ( or something like that )

?

Engine you say

It blew after about 20 minutes of running !! It was a locked up basket case when I got it in the car, un-froze it and decided to give it a try and see if it was OK. NOT !!!!! So I have another engine that came with it, he said it was running when he pulled it out of the other car before he got rid of that car. I'll have to change over the flex plate, carb, intake and stuff but I've got the time.

OH, one other thing, I've only found one fuse holder and I believe that is for the back-up lights. Is there another one

Where would it go

I can make one if need be.

Thanks for your help.

Jody

Bookwus · 02 August 2007, 02:08

Hiya jody,

OK.....lessee if I've got this right............You start up the engine; and shift into a range; the shift lever moves freely into the correct spot; no grinding, you take your hand off the shift lever knob, and nothing happens. You just sit there apparently in gear - but no movement. Is that about it?

And....... there is a constant stream of 12 volt juice going into the control valve solenoid.

If I'm reading this correctly so far, then it does sound as if the points in your shift lever are in contact (or the alternate possibility that somehow this lead has been crosswired) and supplying the solenoid with a constant stream of juice. That, in turn, would keep the control valve open, and, consequently, the clutch servo would be keeping the clutch disengaged. That would account for the symptoms as I understand them.

The fuse holder for the CV solenoid connection goes in the same spot as the fuse holder for the backup lights. They are held in place on the fan shroud by the same clamp.

68autobug · 02 August 2007, 03:18

Hi Jody,
as Mike said, the Control Valve maybe connected incorrectly, so there is current all the time...
well the Control valve Is connected to power all the time the ignition is turned ON.
its only grounded when You touch the gearlever, or mover the gearlever forward or backwards..

so, what I'm thinking is, if the control valve IS activated all the time...
then the clutch servo will be operated, and the clutch Disengaged..
so You will get NO drive...

when you release the gearlever knob, the clutch should engage and the car
can be driven if its in gear

http://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug

Lee - 68Autobug - Australia -