AS Clutch System

jody · 02 August 2007, 04:40

Hey Mike, Hey Lee,

Yes, the CV has power all the time. I disconnected one wire and nothing happened, then the other side and then I heard and felt the CV operate. With the engine out I DID NOT see the other fuse holder for the CV, and there is no duel fuse block holder for either one. I've seen some single holders on straight shift cars but none here. Not even a hole to clip one into. So what I see is that the CV is directly connected to the coil and the other wire must go to the shifter and I would guess that there is where I will find the ground problem. And YES, engine running, no foot on brakes, I can shift to any gear and it will not take off, hand off the stick !!!! I didn't get under to find out if the clutch arm was pulled back because the engine was starting to let go and I didn't want to destroy it if possible.

When I get the engine out I'll have a closer look at the wiring. I'm getting a much clearer picture of the workings of the AS with all of the help ALL you guys ( and Girls ? ) are giving freely here !!!!! Thank you all very much !!!!

Remove engine AGAIN ---------- UGH !!!!!!

Jody

volkenstein · 02 August 2007, 05:19

Jody,
If it's powered off the coil, bung an 8 Amp in-line fuse between the coil and CV. Later model A-S's ran fused power direct from the fuse box.

The wire from the CV to shifter runs through the neutral safety switch, a single connecter under the rear seat, and then up to the stick. That's in a perfect world...On my spare shifter someone had managed to crimp a butt connecter inside to the contact point...In Klaus I found a household screw type connector was joining a new wire to the shifter...

Damn bad luck about the motor...

Volkenstein

jody · 02 August 2007, 05:36

Hey Volkenstein,

Yeah, I'll have a closer look at that wiring system when I get the motor back out. When it was first out I really had no idea what I was looking at. Now that I've got a better grip on it I'll be able to locate and repair where needed. I still haven't figured out where that brown wire with the black wire in a sleeve together is supposed to go or ground to so I added a loop connector and put it on the coil clamp screw. That black wire with it goes to the + side of the coil and it was about the same length soooo---------that's where it went.

Well the engine WAS locked up when I bought the car and her boyfriend took everything off that he could without taking out the engine so I got two boxes of parts to go with it. I had no idea what condition the insides were in, just trying to save it now. A tear down will let me know more. I love tearing engines apart looking for problems !!!!!

Jody

volkenstein · 02 August 2007, 06:04

Jody,
That sleeved brown wire from the CV is meant to eventually go to the stick. Brown in older cars, Grey in newer.
Connecting to earth would mean your solenoid was fired all the time...

I'll post a pic here of a close up shot of a "stock" setup if I can find it amongst my collection...

Here 'tis.

You can see the little red spade on the solenoid and the loops of the sleeved wire running across the engine.
Same for the fuse from the coil. It's on an "L" bracket, slotted for two fuses, but here in Aus we have different wiring for the backup lights.

HTH
Volkenstein

jody · 03 August 2007, 03:10

Hey Volkenstein,

OK, engines out and I found out that the power wire for the CV comes straight from the dash and the other wire on the CV goes straight to the shifter ( I believe ). I haven't checked yet but I think that the wire going to the shifter will be where the "full time power" problem is, grounding all the time. I'll have to see just where the power wire gets it's power, hopefully through a fuse. We'll see.

The black and brown wire's I'm talking about come through the rear engine tin on the right side of the car, threaded very nicely right in front of the fan shroud, under the generator and has just enough length to plug up to the coil. That's the black wire, still has the factory connector on it so I'm sure it goes to the coil. Where it comes from

??, that's what I'll find out when I get back at it. Now the BROWN wire that was with it is the one I don't know where it goes. No connector was on it so I don't know how long the wire was or how it connects to whatever it's supposed to connect to.

I did rig up a little trick while I was under there. After the converter bolt's come out I lightly pried the ear from the flex plate and threaded safety wire through the ear at both openings across from each other, wrapped the right one around the ATF hoses and the left one around the axle. Since I cleaned and lubed the crank bolt and converter knob it stayed right in place with no fluid loss ( unlike the first time ) !!!!!

More later--------------

Jody

volkenstein · 03 August 2007, 04:18

Jody,
Forgot to ask, what car(bug/super/KG etc) & what year (for all the electrical nasties..) ? My pic is of a '71 super btw.

Ta
Volkenstein

jody · 03 August 2007, 04:33

Sorry, ' 72 Super Beetle. 98,000 miles, no wrecks, 9+ interior, perfect pans. Has rock chips and could use a paint job, I'll paint it after I get it right. Any other time a Super would be the start of another Trike but in this case it's WAY too nice to do that to it. I want to see this beauty back on the road.

Jody

jody · 07 August 2007, 01:11

Hey Guy's,

Well it's new engine building time. The second engine that came with the bug has several issues so I just decided to build a new engine and be done with it. At least I'll know what's inside and know that it's right. Besides, it's just as easy to go that way than it is to switch over a bunch of part's.

I'll let you guy's know how it went in a few days. Temp's here running over 100 degrees for the next week or so. Whew, short work days in the shop, I REALLY need to air-condition that shop !!!!!

Jody

jody · 03 September 2007, 21:13

HA, HA IT WORK'S !!!!!!!! Built the engine and then checked all the wiring. Found out that the rear defroster relay was removed and the wires were all messed up !!! Had to trace them all to find out what's what. Someone bypassed the neutral switch ( that's why the key wouldn't start the engine but a jumper would ), then ran the shifter wire straight to the control valve. The black and brown wires I asked about earlier turned out to be ----Black for the back-up lights ( with fuse holder, remember that one ) and the brown one was the wire from the shifter---through the neutral switch to the CV !!!! WOW, really had me scratching my head on that one. When you look at the connector from underneath it's hard to see TWO brown wires on one connector !!! So, got that straight and now the trans shifts into all gears, haven't checked back-up lights, yet but it back's up so that's most of it !!!!

I'm a HAPPY, HAPPY GUY !!!!!

Jody

volkenstein · 04 September 2007, 04:48

Jody,
Excellent news!! What type of donk is in it now?

Regards
Sean

jody · 04 September 2007, 06:05

Oh it's just a stock 1600cc. I didn't want to go any bigger because this will be up for sale after a paint job and fresh window rubber. I save my go fast stuff for my car's and trikes !!! Didn't want to over power the trans also.

Jody

68autobug · 07 September 2007, 10:06

I also learnt the trick with the torque converter...
although All the manuals show how to do it.... with a steel plate...
I just use a piece of galvanised wire to tie the torque converter on...

Lee - 68Autobug - Australia -

http://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug