I will get My gears and crunching sorted out - THIS YEAR...FIXED-FIXED

Started by 68autobug, 16 August 2008, 11:59

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68autobug

Well, I'm having No gearshifting problems now...  its only taken 3 years..  ;D ;D :D ???

I will get My gears sorted out This year..... ;D :o

Everything is going great, except selecting Reverse still crunches...  badly
Tonight I found I could select is easily without crunching
if I move the gearshifter slightly to the right
as i push down etc...
and Wammo-  perfect every time...

So, I've come to the conclusion that My gearshifter base needs moving slightly
to the Right... [took a bit of thinking then]
but
It won't happen tomorrow as i'm going to a FORD car show..
but European cars are welcome..
about 140kms from here...
My VW Son is also a ford son...  lol

Its now shifting up or down perfectly - no crunching...   ;D :D

Lee






-- Helping keep Autostick beetles on the road --
   -1968 Silver metallic 1600 single port Beetle - with BOSCH  SVDA and new BROSOL H30/31 carburetor with GENIE Extractor exhaust system with a quiet thunderbird muffler

http://photobucket.com/68autobug

tmea

Lee:

I have found two causes for this on my car:

    - Smallest rubber diaphram in the clutch solenoid (not servo) ripped where it joins to the plunger rod. I'd try substituting another solenoid and see what happens.

    - Synthetic gear oil. Too much viscosity. Gear sets don't run down quickly enough when clutch is engaged. Keep your hand on the shift knob for twenty or so seconds or so, keeping the clutch engaged and let the gear sets run down. Shift in to R and if it doesn't grind I'd go back to stardard gear oil.

Tom

Bookwus

Hiya Lee,

Quote from: 68autobug on 16 August 2008, 11:59 .......I've come to the conclusion that My gearshifter base needs moving slightly
to the Right...

This is almost the exact same symptom I ran into when I replaced my shift lever.

I thought I had it replaced on the tunnel in the very same spot.  And I had, but I had forgotten that I had shortened the shift rod by about a millimeter and a half.  That changed the geometry AND the shifting action.  Until I figured out that the shift lever had to be moved slightly forward to compensate for the shorter shift rod (I know that doesn't seem to make sense but the pivot point of the shift lever being ABOVE the shift plate changes everything) I had to depress the shift knob to get into Low.  Once I did get it moved (with a little tweaking of course) it worked great.

So I'm guessing that yours may well be a matter adjustment.
Mike

1970 AS Bug