Pre-engine install

Started by kbug, 03 March 2009, 16:56

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kbug

Morning all---My rebuilt 1776 engine has been sitting in the garage for a month now due to lack of time and 2 week visit from my mother. I decided I need to quit dicking around and just get started on it this weekend. There are some things that need to be done before installation can commence.

1. replace accel. cable (I have printed instructions from Rob & Dave's site)

2. replace fuel hoses and move filter to below the fuel tank.

3. clean oil out of engine compartment and off trans. case.

4. replace firewall insulation.

5. reinstall the torque converter

My first question is what is the best way to clean everything off? I tried a store bought degreaser when I changed the oil cooler seals last Aug., but I wasn't impressed. Is there any product that will dissolve all that oil and just wash away? I live in a subdivision so I also don't want to leave a big stain in my driveway or the gutters. I will post some photos by this weekend. Any help would be really appreciated. ;D
MICHAEL

1968 AS BUG

chassisboy

I recommend hot water and Dawn dishwashing liquid. They use this stuff to clean the birds that get stuck in oil from massive oil spills. As for the insulation, make sure you attach it firmly to the sheetmetal. I used black washer screws to keep it from getting sucked into the fan and causing the engine to overheat. You might also want to take the converter to a trans shop and have it flushed.
Check out my website:http://www.lyonsperformance.com

Bookwus

Hiya kBug,

Jaunt on down to your local Costco and buy a gallon of Kafko's Oil Eater.  This is a highly alkaline solution which does a number on oil and grease.  It is also a water based product so it should be good insofar as "washing away" goes.  Dunno though about the dirty oil leaving marks on the driveway, you'll have to be careful about that. 

I recently rebuilt the engine for my Bus.  While I was doing that I cleaned out the engine compartment by...........

1.  Scraping any thick gummy stuff off with a flexible putty knife.
2.  Spraying down really oily spots with brake cleaner
3.  Soaking the rest of it with Oil Eater
4.  Spraying the engine compartment with my power washer

That did a number on the dirt and grime.

Before.........



And after..........

Mike

1970 AS Bug

kbug

Thanks for the suggestion chassisboy but I'm not sure that would work on old, baked on engine oil. I will try the washer screws on the insulation if the metal tabs have broken off. Bookwus, I called my local Costco and they don't carry Oil Eater in the warehouse. I was able to order some from Amazon and get free shipping to boot. Is it safe to use it on the inside of the tranny case before I put the torque converter back in? It looks like that's what you did in the photos. I want to be careful and not get water or cleaner where it shouldn't be. One other question. I'm putting a shut-off valve and fuel filter below the gas tank. Will they be OK hanging there or should I mount them somehow? I wouldn't want the fuel hose to pull loose from the tank. :o That would be bad juju.
MICHAEL

1968 AS BUG

Bookwus

Hiya kbug,

Quote from: kbug on 04 March 2009, 05:28 ......I called my local Costco and they don't carry Oil Eater in the warehouse.

Interesting.  It's been an "on and off" kinda thing at my local Costco.

Quote....I was able to order some from Amazon and get free shipping to boot.

Man!  You can get just about anything from Amazon these days.

Quote....Is it safe to use it on the inside of the tranny case before I put the torque converter back in? It looks like that's what you did in the photos. I want to be careful and not get water or cleaner where it shouldn't be.

I did wipe it down with Oil Eater.  Be sure to read the directions about diluting the stuff........that'll really stretch out one gallon.  Notice in the top picture that the tranny is masked off to prevent spray from getting in there.  You definitely want to keep that area dry.

Quote....One other question. I'm putting a shut-off valve and fuel filter below the gas tank. Will they be OK hanging there or should I mount them somehow? I wouldn't want the fuel hose to pull loose from the tank. :o That would be bad juju.

Bad juju indeed!  To tell the truth, I don't think you'd have a problem with the hose pulling loose from the tank, but it sure doesn't hurt to be on the safe side.  I rigged up a couple of brackets to hold my fuel filter.  I installed the brackets on the forward side of the passenger footrest.  Here's what it looks like from the right front wheel position................

Mike

1970 AS Bug

68autobug


If You have caked on grease...
I cleaned where the torque converter sits
then taped over the shaft etc with masking tape.. 
One of My gearboxes had caked on grease and oil etc..
and I used a foaming degreaser in a pressure pack can..
let it stand a couple of minutes and hosed it off...

I did this a few times... then I scraped all the hard stuff off with a paint scraper..

I finished off with more degreaser...
it was nice and clean by then , enough to paint the gearbox...

I'll have to check to see if My fuel filter is tied down??
with a fuel shut off I would clamp it down...

I have replaced it once..  all fuel hoses are new..
all hoses are new..

Have you replaced the torque converter oil seal??

Thats a good idea about the engine bay insulation...
Never thought about it being sucked into the fan...
I have a louvered stainless steel plate over the top of My insulation..


cheers

LEE

PS: Mike, I've just realised why You have those steel cables holding Your gearbox up... lol



-- Helping keep Autostick beetles on the road --
   -1968 Silver metallic 1600 single port Beetle - with BOSCH  SVDA and new BROSOL H30/31 carburetor with GENIE Extractor exhaust system with a quiet thunderbird muffler

http://photobucket.com/68autobug

kbug




QuoteI did wipe it down with Oil Eater.  Be sure to read the directions about diluting the stuff........that'll really stretch out one gallon.  Notice in the top picture that is masked off to prevent spray from getting in there.  You definitely want to keep that area dry.

Oops, in your picture I thought the black was caked on oil, not plastic. There's only a little grease inside my case. A wipe down should take care of it. My engine compartment is a lot nastier than yours was. I'm going to put the oil eater to the test. I'll pick up some brackets to mount the fuel hose. Did you get those at a hardware store or auto parts?

MICHAEL

1968 AS BUG

kbug

QuoteI finished off with more degreaser...
it was nice and clean by then , enough to paint the gearbox...

I would like to see "The Last Supper" painted on your fan shroud. lol
Thanks for the response Lee. Cleaning this mess up is going to be a nasty job and every suggestion helps.

Michael
MICHAEL

1968 AS BUG

Bookwus

Hiya kbug,

Quote from: kbug on 04 March 2009, 16:36 ......I'll pick up some brackets to mount the fuel hose. Did you get those at a hardware store or auto parts?

Actually I just fabbed them out of some scrap lying around the shop.  The plastic clamps screwed into them and holding the fuel hose are from the local Ace Hardware.
Mike

1970 AS Bug

68autobug



Hi
You can use small saddles sold in hardware shops for
holding small pipes or electronic shops have small white nylon clamps held with one screw..
for holding cables...  I even used a large thick cable tie
placed it around the hose then drilled a hole thru it and screwed it on..
[I cut the remained of the cable tie off...

cheers

LEE

-- Helping keep Autostick beetles on the road --
   -1968 Silver metallic 1600 single port Beetle - with BOSCH  SVDA and new BROSOL H30/31 carburetor with GENIE Extractor exhaust system with a quiet thunderbird muffler

http://photobucket.com/68autobug

kbug

Just a quick question. I want to clean off the torque converter. Is this a wipe carefully project or spray it down with oil eater and hose it off? Getting water inside it is probably not a good thing. By the way Bookwus, that oil eater kicks ass. Engine compartment and tranny case are sparkling. :)
MICHAEL

1968 AS BUG

weevil

Hi KBug,
Can you lead me to Rob's and Dave's Site  that relates to replacing the accel. cable as you mentioned in your first post.
I may have to do that as well.
Thanks

weevil

Hi ,
ChassisBoy mentioned in this thread that the torque converter need to be flushed.
Please let me know if this is a requirement and if the converter can be soaked in the inside?
Also , Mine seams to be clean on the outside, firm (No play at all when pushed by hand) . Is this a good enough test  or do I have to change the inner seal anyway.
Many thanks
Kam

kbug

http://www.vw-resource.com/
Hey weevil. Here's the site. My torque converter was working fine so I don't plan to flush it. Is your torque converter out of the car? If so you should replace the seal. That's just what I've heard from more experienced members.  :)
MICHAEL

1968 AS BUG

kbug

A quick question. I bought new engine compartment seals all the way around. Is the seal over the bell housing different for an engine with a doghouse cooler? I bought the seal for a 68 bug but I'm not sure how it mates up with the tin.
MICHAEL

1968 AS BUG