New Plumbing!

bowlingbrad · 04 July 2009, 19:32

Oh, and by the way... No one sells a dwell/tach anymore! I went all over looking for one (even thought I don't know what to do with it yet).

Is there a decent one online?

Bookwus · 04 July 2009, 20:42

Hiya Brad,

Oh...............that screw!

Turning it clockwise will soften the shift; counterclockwise will sharpen the shift. At least, that's how I recall it. No matter, if I'm wrong Sean will correct me. By the way when you tweak the adjusting screw you want to it in half-turns. Once you've done a half-turn either way take the car out for a spin and judge the action for yourself. Keep on with this procedure until you find a spot you like. VW says that the spot they like is ..............put the car in Second and then shift down to First at 35mph. Engagement should take one second. But whatever feels good to you as long as it's not too far away from the VW standard.

The dwell/tach/volts meter is a pretty common beast. Here's the one I use.............

.......it's from Sears. Model number 161.216500. I've had this for years but I'd be very surprised if Sears does not still carry it or one very like it.

bowlingbrad · 06 July 2009, 04:26

Ok. I changed the static timing to 7.5d BTDC. I now am having some issues with warm starts. The engine seems to be cranking and cranking. Does it have something to do with the carb adjustment?

Bookwus · 06 July 2009, 04:32

Hiya Brad,

That is possible.

But FWIW, both my cars (SVDAs at 7.5 BTDC) start very quickly when cold and take some cranking when hot. Just may be the nature of the beast.

Anybody else?

bowlingbrad · 06 July 2009, 05:56

Mike,

That just doesn't seem right. (for either of us!)

Would a starter bypass connection help? I have one, I just have been too scared to install it. Also, do we need a stronger starter?

Brad

Bookwus · 06 July 2009, 06:39

Hiya Brad,

This has been my experience over the past few years. I'm pretty much used to the situation.

My starter has plenty of oomph! No need for any relays in either of my systems. I'm thinking that this is a fuel feed kinda thing. Truthfully, since I have pretty much grown comfortable with this I really haven't had the motivation to do any looking for reasons.

This has had no ill effects on the battery or the rest of the starting system in either of my vehicles. Cold, I get an immediate crankover. Hot, it takes five or a couple more seconds to kick over. Well within what I would consider acceptable.

However, if you (or anybody else out there in VWARland) has ideas as to the reason for this phenomena, I'd appreciate your opinions.

68autobug · 06 July 2009, 14:13

Well I don't have an SVDA as yet...
but after installing My electronic ignition kit...
My car starts first time every time...
So spark may have something to do about it...

all the carburetors are full of fuel...
so what fuel pump is used doesn't really matter...
so long as the fuel bowl is full...

I used to have the same problem with a mitsubishi years ago...
once Hot.... very hard to start....

The autostick starter motor is slighly stronger in Horsepower than the standard starter motor.
If all the battery/starter motor leads are nice & clean at the ends and have good contacts
no problems... as My car has all new wiring... no problems...

the main problem is.. copper wire and connectors get contaminated after all these years
so are very dirty... which results in bad contacts.. fuse box the same...

Mike, I'm a bit of a fiddler as you probably have guessed... lol
so, I try different things until I'm satisfied !!??

If I didn't have so many problems with My car at first, [due to bad luck]
it would still be doghouse oil cooler etc...

Why car engines don't like to start when hot I believe is related to the high tension electrics and coil..

cheers

LEE

bowlingbrad · 06 July 2009, 14:47

Lee,

I guess I'm going to have to get under my car to see if I actually have an autostick starter.

I am going to clean up all of my connections. I did rewire the car last year, however, I did not replace the ground strap. I was too confused about getting under the car. I think I've built up a little more courage. I have a replacement ground strap and a replacement starter wire. I just need to crawl under the car and install them.

Any pictures / numbers for the autostick starter? Replacement options?

Thanks!

Bookwus · 06 July 2009, 18:22

Hiya Brad,

Oh, you'll have an AutoStick starter allright. They are unique. You can't use a regular starter in an AutoStick. While AutoStick starters are available as new/rebuilt units finding a used one can take some looking. That's because they are prized for their self contained starter gear bushing. A Bosch SR-17X is what you'd look for and you can expect to shell out about $150 for one.

Great idea to make all the contacts shiny. The starter solenoid actually needs about 10 volts from the battery to kick the engine over. Corrosion, dirt, and loose connections can cut that available voltage down in a hurry. So, the moral of this story is clean, clean, clean.

volkenstein · 07 July 2009, 05:04

Brad,
Change of starting technique maybe? The A-S starters are the best of beetle starters, only an IMI type ($$$'s) would be better. With mine (when it isn't flooding

) I hot start by depressing the acc pedal to the floor in a "smooth linear motion", release and try starting. Seems to work OK. Cold, I don't even bother with the acc pedal, crank it and it starts in a second or so.

Regards
Sean

68autobug · 07 July 2009, 06:19

Here is a pic of a Bosch automatic starter motor
I believe this one came off a type 3 or 4
its a bit longer than the other two starter motors i have..

cheers

LEE

PS: You can tell an autoctick starter as the gear is on the end...
no shaft sticking out...

hercdriver · 07 July 2009, 18:24

I've posted a few links for vendors under the "Parts" sticky. Keep me honest. If one's an incorrect part or a bad link I'll delete it. Like wise if you find another link, let me know and I'll add it to the list.