bumming big time

kbug · 31 May 2009, 06:30

My engine builder told me the 30/31 would work fine, but look how he turned out. I'll find out soon if he built me a decent engine. I'll order the 34PICT3 and the bigger jet. I have a stock distributer. Will that work or should I change that too?

kbug · 31 May 2009, 06:34

Hey bookwus. I just read your post about Keifernet. I'll try him 1st for a carb.

Bookwus · 31 May 2009, 06:41

Hiya Michael,

Keith is absolutely the best for carb work. Be sure to tell him that you need a 34PICT3 specifically for an AutoStick and a 1776. He'll get you set up. He runs all his carbs before he sends them out so it will arrive very close to being in tune. Just a bolt-it-on and go kinda proposition.

On the other hand, if you do the rejetting yourself you might want to heed the words of Rob & Dave.........

"Regarding the 1776cc engine: the stock 34PICT/3 carburetor with a fractionally larger main jet and a fractionally smaller air correction jet to suit the higher air flow being asked of the carburetor should suit nicely. The 34PICT normally has a X127.5 main and a 140Z or 170 air correction jet. So with a vacuum distributor, using a 55 idle, X130 or X132.5 main and about a 100 - 120Z air correction jet should provide good mixture for a 1776, without affecting fuel economy to badly (fuel consumption WILL be a little higher with the larger capacity though).

For a 1776cc engine with 009 distributor, 55 idle, X132.5 or X135 main, and air correct around 80Z should be close to the mark.

Change the main first and do a plug read as above. This will tell you if it's running rich or lean at speed and then you can set the air correction jet accordingly (smaller air correction means richer mixture - is delivers air so it works the opposite to a main jet. The air correction jet affects mostly the high rpm -- not much effect on low-middle rpm).

Try to use the leanest main jet you can -- too rich will only result in the cylinder oil film being diluted more, and this means higher cylinder wear."

kbug · 31 May 2009, 16:04

I PM'd Keith. The Builder didn't put in a 009 dist. He stuck with the stock one. Wish I could get in touch with the guy, but his website is down and he doesn't return messages. His feedback on the Samba went south too(after I gave him my old engine). I liked Andy and I hope he gets his crap together. I'm not sure if my warranty is worth anything now.

Bookwus · 31 May 2009, 17:21

Hiya Michael,

Quote from: kbug on 31 May 2009, 16:04
Wish I could get in touch with the guy, but his website is down and he doesn't return messages. His feedback on the Samba went south too(after I gave him my old engine).

Ouch! Not good signs.

Bookwus · 03 June 2009, 04:10

Hiya All,

Painting update............

Color coat went on today.

kbug · 03 June 2009, 07:19

Wow, what a looker!

hercdriver · 03 June 2009, 20:29

Mike I hate to point out the obvious, but it looks like that guy stole your bumper and tail lights.

Looks great!!

Dave

Bookwus · 03 June 2009, 20:47

Hiya dave,

Quote from: hercdriver on 03 June 2009, 20:29
Mike I hate to point out the obvious, but it looks like that guy stole your bumper and tail lights.

Ya' think that's why he gave me a break on the price?

tmea · 04 June 2009, 04:31

Mike:

Looks awesome! Driving me crazy to see it. I look at mine in the garage and see what it should look like. Still shopping around for a good paint job that does not cost as much as a new car...

Tom

kbug · 05 June 2009, 20:49

Hey all......this is mike's friend Ray.....I'm helping Mike tune in his little '68 here

As I'm a little more experienced with this stuff, had a pumped up '71 Super 25yrs ago, so I've been drawing on what I remember from those days long ago..LOL.
Today we seem to be having good luck with her as she's running and driving fairly reliably....could be better though and that's where I am having some issues.
IDLING and idling in gear........we can't get it to run smoothly RELIABLY in gear, and the idling speed fluctuates from stoplight to stoplight. I am having to raise the out-of-gear idle speed up enough to keep it from dying, that I am running into the mechanical advance in the dist coming in....causing the idle speed to raise even further. Drop'r into gear and the idle speed drops waaaayyyyyyy down...almost to the point of stall. Then after a few seconds, it'll climb back up to a fairly reasonable rpm and seems to stay OK.
I did an extensive air-leak-recon and came up aces, went back and adjusted the carb per spec found here and set the timimg so it runs up and down the hills around Mike's place without pinging on Premium fuel.....done. (I always powertime my older cars, I have early 70's Datsuns as well so I am of the vintage car mind "))

OK.....I'm really not sure where to go from here on his car......he will be driving it to work soon so I'd like to leave him knowing I can trust the tune to be good.

So what's causing this weird idle drop-then-recover deal?

thanks, Ray

KBUG!

volkenstein · 06 June 2009, 03:29

Ray,
What carb is on it? H30/31 or the 34 Pict - 3 that was going to be bought? Anecdotally...I would carb cleaner and compressed air ANY "new" carb (Keith's ones would be an exception) blowing in all directions possible. I'd also check how much throttle shaft slop there is "out of the box". Again anecdotal evidence says "new" carbs sometimes suffer pitiful quality.

Maybe whip the top off the carb and check for scunge or corrosion, check the twin screws' O-rings as well?

Also as an afterthought...check your distributor can and make sure the points plate rotates smoothly without hanging up anywhere. Ditto for twisting on the rotor to check your mechanical advance isn't hanging up.

HTH
Volkenstein

kbug · 08 June 2009, 01:42

Big surprise, Andy, my builder, actually returned my call. He said he put a 110 cam in the engine. He suggested it might be a air leak around the booster on the trans. that's causing my idle problems. I didn't have time to check that today. I did drive her around and after she warmed up, she ran pretty well. Idling low but did not die at lights when in gear. Anyone have any experience with 110 cams?

Bookwus · 08 June 2009, 01:54

Hiya Michael,

Quote from: kbug on 08 June 2009, 01:42
Big surprise, Andy, my builder, actually returned my call. He said he put a 110 cam in the engine.

And that could, at least in part, explain the idling problems. Engines with performance cams usually do not have a smooth idle. I was considering building a 1776 and had determined that, if I did so, I'd use a stock camshaft to avoid that problem.

Quote.....He suggested it might be a air leak around the booster on the trans.

Eh? What's that? The clutch servo possibly?

Wrench66 · 08 June 2009, 02:28

Yeah Bookwus, when I looked up the spec on that cam Andy put in there I was bummed at the tighter 108 deg lobe sep angle. Knowing that, I don't think it was ever meant for an auto trans car.....

The "new" Brosol 30/31 is also creating it's own trouble in that along with the idling in gear situation, we are ALSO dealing with an overly rich condition upon restart after 10-15min. Likely that raw fuel is getting past the needle/seat and loading up the motor when stopped. We've been here before with an older, orig carb that had been doing the same thing, but we thought our troubles would be solved with the new carb......hehe, right. $:-\$

Mike was told the 34PICT-3 would be a good carb for his motor, sound fair? The Brazilian wonder is not the answer!

thnks,

--Ray....KBug's bud