Hi
Im in the process of putting my AS tranny back together, I want to connect the bellhousing to the main tranny, is there a way of lining up the lugs on the clutch release bearing, do they somehow need to line up with the 2 arms on the clutch release shaft, help anyone?
Airhead
Airhead,
Lots of things need to line up. There isn't much room to make adjustments "on the fly". A couple of Q's.
1. Is this the Bellhousing off the trans originally?
2. Has anything clutch related been disassembled?
First thing you should do is scribe (with a proper scribe, not a pencil!) a line across the top of your clutch arm/shaft so you know where it all sits together normally. It is far easier to get that clutch arm off in the first place and then bung the Bellhousing/clutch back on.
I'll search a few posts for piccies, but if not successful then it's shed time.
Let us know what the answers are....
HTH
Volkenstein
Hi Sean
What I have is my existing tranny with a different bell housing, you may recall that my TC went horribly bad, the seals in my old bell housing looked suspect so I am swapping it. Ive loosely installed the clutch plate but not fully tightened up the 12-point bolts.
Heres what I have
(http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm72/Airkewld_2008/Picture048-2.jpg)
(http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm72/Airkewld_2008/Picture050-3.jpg)
(http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm72/Airkewld_2008/Picture051-3.jpg)
(http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm72/Airkewld_2008/Picture052-1.jpg)
What do I do next ???
Airhead
Back into this now I have time to scratch myself :P
First up you need to align the clutch plate, to the mainshaft WITH the bellhousing studs and then tighten the clutch pressure plate.
Methode de insanite :
With your clutch arm suitably marked undo the pinch bolt, lever it open a tad and pull/wiggle it off the shaft. Try not to rotate things as the shaft has superfine splines.
Onto the clutch cover/plate! Slightly snug the cover bolts while centreing the plate as near as dammit with a spline groove facing the centre top of the bellhousing . Snug just enough to stop the plate moving when positioned vertically.
Far better to machine up a wooden dowel guide that uses the ID of the plate and OD of the mainshaft that goes into the pilot bearing in the carrier plate. Lube the OD of the trans guide sleeve and ID of the T-O bearing with Moly Grease. A thin finger wipe on the splined part of the trans mainshaft. The T-O bearing arms should be north/south once the bellhousing is vertical.
So..lay your trans on the pan or whatever (I use two bits of 1x2 timber). Rotate the mainshaft (select a gear and use one of the flanges) so a spline faces straight up. Set the fork on the clutch arm at about a 45 Deg angle TOWARD the bellhousing. Now offer up the Bellhousing/clutch assembly. The BH studs will need to go in nicely, watching that the clutch fork arms engage BEHIND the T-O (it sits between the arms and the clutch cover) and then comes the hard part.
USE YOUR HANDS ONLY!!!! If it doesn't want to go on NEVER use a BFH!!! Anyway wiggling whilst rotating the mainshaft with a little jiggling of the flange back 'n' forth it should go on USING FIRM HAND PRESSURE eventually.
The last thing you want to do is F%$# up the splines or burr them badly.
Let's assume the sun has shone, birds are chirping and there's vestal virgins laving your feet with oil.
Now CAREFULLY and directly backwards take off the BH. Now do those little cover bolts up to 11Ft/lbs going criss-cross and about a 1/4 turn per time.
Now you apply a bit of grease to clutch fork arm engaging points and to the upright arms of the T-O. Smear up the pilot bearing and wipe excess off clutch plate splines.
Have all your trans/BH nuts handy. Put the BH back on (check the fork arms engageas per before!!) and when bottomed out against the trans slip the washers and nuts on and do up to 14 Ft/lbs. At this point you should have two left. You need to remove the pan to do those.
Fingers crossed that should be all you need to do. If it is proving merciless to put on the first time, you need to take a deep breath AND NOT FORCE IT!! Take it off and check plate to spline alignment. If you have a pilot tool, you are halfway there.
Lucky last is to put the clutch arm back on (aligning your scribed marks!!!) and torque to 22 Ft/lbs.
Regards
Sean
Sean
You are a legend, I was beginning to worry as you have been off line for a few days, I'll follow your instructions and report
back if needed.
Cheers mate
Steve
I'm trying, but I cannot post photos..
don't forget to renew the lower o rings on the studs...
to stop oil leaking past the o rings later on..
and don't use synthetic oil as it will seep past those o rings...
I pulled My thrust bearing apart and refilled it with lithium based Moly grease...
and it will now last forever... lol
it was very difficult to reassemble... maybe if I had a press etc..
LEE
http://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug
Photos would be great Lee as they say a picture paints a thousand words :)
Airhead
Steve,
Of a disassemled TO bearing? I've seen Lee's pic of that and commiserated with him on just how tough the snap ring was. I tried on my spare but chickened out. You'll need a serious snap ring plier and eyewear "just in case"....
Let's see if this works : http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2615107060050767931sLMMld
Just a link..to Lee's photie..
Or something else?
Regards
Sean
Hi Sean
I'm still trying to post pics.... lol
I was able to have them come out like Yours did
but haven't been able to just put the photo only in a post??
LEE
Hi Lee
I managed to take my TO bearing apart and re-grease it now runs really smooth, just hope
everything works with no leaks when I get it back together. Lee how did you install your TC seal
do you know if anyone has made some kind of tool that can be attached to the bellhousing
and screwed down toapply even force to the seal and push it down so that it can then be peened on.
BTW Lee looked at your picture gallery some great photos on there.
Airhead
thanks for the kind comments...
I have now seen that many of the things I did, I didn't record how I did them etc
that's great news that You pulled apart the throwout bearing and reassembled after greasing..
a press would have made the job much easier... lol
but those bearing are of excellent quality, so a bit of Moly grease and they will go forever..
The torque converter seals...
I have installed at least two.. as I changed gearboxes last year..
Now, how I installed them??
I cannot remember, but normally I try to find something to fit over the seal
to know it in, like a socket or even PVC pipe fitting... or the piece of wood... lol
I think I may have found a PVC pipe fitting [colored gray or white]
when I go to a hardware store... I look at lots of things that may help in a job
that has nothing to do with the item looked at...
I may have used a PVC fitting with a piece of wood over the top??
[I know that sounds like you needed three hands]
Now that photo would have been great...
but once I have dirty hands I don't think of My camera...
I could have put it on a tripod and took pics..
I'll have to think of that next time...
and as most cameras these days will also take movies, and even with sound...lol
who knows I could be a star.. lol....
cheers
LEE
PS: I'll look and see if I can find anything that fits over the seal... LEE
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Steve,
Based on one or two PM's I've had, you must knock it all the way back onto the support tube. You have to pein it in place as well in at least 3 or 4 places. Short of fabbing up a bar, Lee's suggestion of a piece of hardwood or somesuch, modified to clear the support tube yet able to press on the seal is a good bet. you can tap the seal down until you hear/feel metal on metal. Then pein, making sure the seal is still bottomed.
I'll try and dig up my old seal/support tube to see what/how it "originally" was. Since it is raining cats and dogs, a man cave excuse I believe.
HTH
Sean
Ok after much frustration I finally got the bellhousing and tranny re-attached, it certainly took persistence and a lot of patience, a couple of times I thought about getting the BFH out but resisted throwing the whole thing over next doors fence in complete frustration ???
Question, the clutch arm doesnt move now is that correct?
Cheers
Airhead
Steve,
With the clutch arm ON, you sould be able to rotate it towards the Bellhousing without any resistance.
With it OFF, same direction and it still moves easily.
When you attempt to rotate it toward the front of the car (or trans nosecone), it should stop. Metal on Metal sound/feel.
If you can't do either of the first two, your T-O bearing may need realigning. The arms should be vertical. IIRC you should be able to withdraw the bellhousing enough to see, and not have to remove it. Just be careful you don't rotate the clutch/carrier plate.
HTH
Sean
Hi Sean
Quote from: volkenstein on 12 July 2010, 13:09
With the clutch arm ON, you sould be able to rotate it towards the Bellhousing without any resistance.
How far exactly should it move?
Thanks
Steve
Steve,
About 40-50 mm IIRC. Check this : http://www.vwar.org/forum/index.php?topic=19.45 . It shows pretty much where your clutch arm sits when all is normal.
Regards
Sean
Ive finally got everything lined up and the bell housing back on, I have made sure that the 2 lugs on the TO bearing
engage with the clutch control arm shaft.
Problem ??? ??? I marked up the clutch control arm by scribing a line across the top before I removed it to
reattach the bellhousing, Ive refitted it and lined up the marks, problem is the arm looks way out of alignment,
its orientated too far clockwise. Have I done something wrong? The only thing that changed on the tranny is the bell housing
and clutch are not original to the tranny, help and advice anyone (short video below)
(http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm72/Airkewld_2008/th_ClutchControlArm.jpg) (http://s293.photobucket.com/albums/mm72/Airkewld_2008/?action=view¤t=ClutchControlArm.mp4)
Airhead
Steve,
If as you say, everything is now as it should be you need to re-set the arm to servo relationship.
Same link I posted as before, noting the first of my pictures.
Bolt together the servo and fit it all on the trans. Set the little servo arm to initial specs. Push it all the way back into the servo and measure the centre to centre distance of both eyes. Follow the procedure I outlined in that thread to get the clutch arm correct and when happy, finally torque it to 22 Ft/Lbs and scribe a new line to use for your particular combo.
Regards
Sean
Hi
I just looked up what I did on both My gearboxes...
I took the servo off...
pushed the clutch arm as far forward as I could go
then done the bolt up...
and adjusted the servo adjuster...
none of My manuals seemed to help Me... rather confused Me... lol
but its great once everything is going great...
and you have a reliable car....
LEE
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