I have a 71 ghia as. I have adjusted most of the components that function together for the a.s. system (hoses replaced; server arm adjustment; etc). I can now drive the car around fine, and shift through all gears. Problem is, when I back up into my driveway, I can't get the car out of reverse unless I turn off the ignition.
The same thing happens when I am parked (not rolling), and I put the car into a forward gear...if I attempt to shift out of the gear while still not rolling, the stick shift won't budge. If I take off driving, I can shift out of gear, and into neutral, and the other forward gears.
Any advise on what component needs adjusting? I adjusted the server arm out pretty far to allow me to get into reverse. But now, this issue of not getting out of reverse.
Hi t-roy.
I would have thought that when the clutch adjuster is adjusted correctly, and You can select reverse without crunching, then You wouldn't have any problems getting out of gear..
My first thoughts are...
the switch in the gear shifter isn't making contact when going out of a gear..
so, You are trying to pull the gear out of gear, with the clutch still closed..
although, You can normally do that in a manual car easily enough...??
I'll check with My car and see with the control valve disconnected, if I can pull it out of gear easily..
Maybe the torque converter has an effect..
I did note You said, You adjusted the clutch arm...[not the adjuster]
You don't normally need to do that.. I did, as I had taken the arm off the gearbox.. lol
If You did loosen the clutch activating arm, You need to follow My instructions on how to adjust the arm correctly.... as the instructions on adjusting the clutch don't seem to work, even with that special measuring tool..
cheers
LEE in Australia
It is the adjuster arm that I adjusted, not the clutch arm.
On a regular manual transmission car, if the transmission is under load, it is hard to pull it out of gear without depressing the clutch. I had similar problems with my autostick and reverse when the high idle was on and my contacts were not adjusted quite right.
So that would be my first thought, as this adjustment can get out of whack all by itself. Have you adjusted the contact points in the shifter recently?
Hi Carl
]
Yes, I remember having that problem when I had the engine revving too high
when I was fiddling around with the new carburetor..
which I still haven't mastered correctly, but getting there.. flat spot is getting smaller.. lol
LEE
Thanks. I was considering re-adjusting the shift lever contacts. It has been a while since I have done that. I will also check the idle.
Troy
Gear shifter points would probably too open [gap too wide]
so, You are trying to change gears while the clutch is still engaged..
tighten/close up the gap and the clutch will be depressed as soon as You move the gear shifter,
adjust it too close, and the clutch will be operated/depressed as soon as You touch it.
that isn't good as every time You bump the gearshifter, You are out of gear with the clutch depressed.. the switch should only close when the lever is moved forwards or backwards..
sideways movement should have no operation of the clutch normally..
so if You bump the gear shifter sideways [which I do a lot with My knee]
nothing happens.. You can try it adjusted like this and see how You go..
My cutch was depressed [and no drive] lol every time the knob was touched or moved ever so slowly..
cheers
Lee in Australia
When I got My car, any bump and the
Hello
I checked the shift connector gap, and while doing so, saw I had a frayed wire. So, I ordered a new contact and wire and installed that over the weekend.
I am still having trouble pulling the shifter our of gear when I am not rolling, but the engine is running. Especially, when I try to take it our of reverse.
I am thinking I need to now look at the servo diaphram for a leak? If that appears to be the logical next step, can someone point me to a thread on how to check for a bad diaphram and how to intall a new one.
Thanks
T-roy
Hi t-roy
look into the search on here..
trying a few different words.. clutch servo bladder?? may work..
I know I have seen it show on here using the new replacement kit..
I'm just trying to remember how to check if its leaking..
I know normally the vacuum tank has vacuum all the time.. so You can move the gear shifter about 8+++ times and the servo should work.. [with the engine off] unless there is a leak.
You could lay under the clutch servo and get someone to move the gearlever and check whether the clutch servo is working..
The points in the gearlever.. You can re solder a new wire onto them..
all these need new wires now as the old wire insulation is now becoming brittle and coming off.. so when the wire shorts out [touches metal body/chassis] the clutch is depressed..
I do remember that the vacuum hose going to the clutch servo needs to be disconnected before the clutch adjuster can be moved by hand.. so if its leaking.. then You would be able to move the adjuster by pulling out of the clutch servo [with the pin pulled out]
if its holding vacuum.. then you can't pull it out...
Lee in Australia