Hi from NewZealand.
My daughter acquired a 71 Super with SA trans a few years ago, it had a few minor problems when she got it but they have got progressively worse, everyone here says convert it to manual trans but she kinda likes the semi auto. A very quick browse thu the tech section answered most of my questions, these being missing vac line from a non std carb to the CV causing harsh gear selection ? Clutch servo possibly needing adjustment ( really grinds when selecting reverse ) The worst is the ATF leaks, its hard to see where its coming from as the whole bottom of the trans is covered with oil, I will need to clean it and try to isolate the leak. I did read in a post re ATF pressure to high, how is this pressure controlled and measured ? Any input will be much appreciated :)
You might want to pick up a Bentley manual for your car's year. Lots of good stuff in there. The pressure is generated from the engine oil/atf pump. You can measure it by temporarily installing a pressure gauge via a T-fitting where the output line exits the tin. It's paragraph 3.3 of the Auto Stick chapter.
Paraphrasing here from the manual:
"At approximately 2000 RPM, ATF pressure below 52.6 PSI (3.7 kg/cm3) ATF level low, pump output is low, hoses are restricted, or there are leaks. If greater than the pressure listed either the pressure relief valve or the pump is faulty."
On a personal note, I found a kink in the metal line where it bends. I ended up replacing mine as it was restricting the ATF flow.
Are you sure that it's the ATF fluid leaking and not the hypoid oil? If the bottom of the trans is wet with oil it could be the gear oil. On my transmission there is a large square pan for draining. Yours might have a regular drain plug though. The fill plug is on the left side of the trans above the arms. Gear oil has a nasty smell so it is difficult to get it confused with the ATF.
No its definitely ATF as its got that red colour. I mentioned a missing vac line to the CV from the carb but on closer inspection there is a hose but it comes off the intake manifold just below the carb flange close to the big vac hose, not from the carb itself as described in a lot of posts, and there is a T fitting in that hose for the air cleaner flap, its got the big plastic air cleaner by the way. Im thinking its had a non AS carb put on it at some stage and they have run the CV vac line direct to the manifold ?? Would this cause the bang when selecting gears ?
There's a seal I think in there that could be the cause of the ATF fluid leak...
Also, how are the mounts, I suppose, it is possible bad mounts could cause the jumping...
but more than likely, it is just an adjustment with the control valve needed to fix that...
Good luck! You are not too far (he's in neighboring Australia) to the owner of the forum, compared to me.
He's the real expert, I'm more of a dabbler.
Kyle
Quote from: busman on 30 July 2017, 05:34
No its definitely ATF as its got that red colour. I mentioned a missing vac line to the CV from the carb but on closer inspection there is a hose but it comes off the intake manifold just below the carb flange close to the big vac hose, not from the carb itself as described in a lot of posts, and there is a T fitting in that hose for the air cleaner flap, its got the big plastic air cleaner by the way. Im thinking its had a non AS carb put on it at some stage and they have run the CV vac line direct to the manifold ?? Would this cause the bang when selecting gears ?
Hi, YES, I have a Brasillian WEBER carburetor on My Beetle which didn't have the autostick hole or pipe on the carburetor.I tried to use the vacuum for the distributor as I was using a NON Vacuum distributor at the time. It used to really CLUNK into Gear every time and I drove it like that for nearly a year!!! You cannot use tee pieces for the vacuum lines either... the small vacuum line from the bottom of the carburetor "tells" the Control Valve what vacuum is happening, like if you are coming to a stop, or how much the engine is revving due to the vacuum. It makes it easier to change down a gear [within the recommended gear shift points]ATF Automatic Transmission Fluid is NOT an oil and it smells and feels very different to HYPOID transmission Oil which has a smell of its own.... I don't like the cotton covered hose that Volkswagen used [Porsche and Mercedes also used it] I presume it was the Best hose to use at that time. I have found that most of the ATF pipes that go under the engine are usually dented from hitting something... It is best to replace ALL the ATF hoses with a good quality hose that is designed to take the pressure. I used a hydraulic hose that had the same inside diameter as the old hoses. The hose fitted the ATF hose fittings with outer ferrules to suit the hydraulic hose. My pipe that comes up into the engine compartment already had two good quality [norma] hose clamps and I have also used them with NO problems.. It IS BEST to reuse the original VW Hose fittings and make sure you place the washers on the banjo bolts where the hose going onto the side of the gearbox back where they were originally... or You may have a leaking fitting because of the washers incorrectly fitted. A fellow in the USA who had all new hose and fittings fitted to the ends of the ATF hoses using hydraulic hose and fittings, but His beetle didn't go too well... I told him to measure the inside diameter of the new hose fittings, and He found they were all TOO SMALL... He drilled them out to the correct inside diameter so the ATF could flow correctly.. and they worked perfectly, but a lot of trouble for the normal owner-driver :P :-[
Another very important thing - ALL the Vacuum hoses - Large and small should all be replaced by NOW.... I didn't use the cotton covered hose but a truck/trailer air brake hose, made in the USA and a reddish/orange color... POWAFLEX Multi-Purpose 12.7mm [wall pressure 300psi] I have also used 13mm ID hose of the same brand of hose.
Just use good quality Hose clamps [with large teeth] i believe mine may be Norma brand ?? also made from stainless steel.
I found the main problem with cotton covered hose is, it can have cracks and You cannot see then.... even though it has lasted 25 years MORE than it should have..... :o ::)
The main reason I used a non cotton covered Large Vacuum hose was I wanted to paint the hose yellow... YES YELLOW 8) 8)
LEE in Australia
Busman,
We (all of us) can nitpick your engine bay to death just by you posting (or sending) a piccie showing :
a. A scenic shot of the CV valve that ALSO includes the carby.
b. A scenic shot of your engine bay in total (just the bay...).
So - smells like you may have a typical tranny ATF seal leak. LOTS of info on "how to". Be sure (for any other probs) to check/search the "old forum" as well.
I would rather spring for brand new cloth covered hose. Merc or BMW brake booster hose. You can also check on VW Type 2 (Bus) brake booster hose. All three total near 6 feet. But, seeing as you are in Unzud - use whatever you can. Lee's suggestion for hoses NEEDS tres butch hoseclamps because your starting point is 12.7 mm - not 12 mm. If you go shopping for hydraulic hose - look at the VACUUM rating - not pressure rating. A donk put's out roughly 25 In/Hg (in the utter BEST scenario), so get some hose that is rated 30 In/Hg MINIMUM.
But - post pic's........easy as.......
HTH
Volkenstein
Thanks guys, yes I will get some pix next time my daughter comes around as its her car ( mines a 66 Splitty lol ) The small pipe coming off the intake just below the carb flange is where the CV is plumbed to and I take it this is wrong ? I used to use Photobucket but they now want $150 for the service, third party hosting or something. How do you guys post your pix ?
Since your pics will be aircooled VW related I recommend creating an account on TheSamba.com. Just put them in the proper categories.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/faq.php?mode=gallery#2
You can lose yourself in the vastness that is TheSamba.
Im actually a member on The Samba, thats how I found you guys :) This is a pic of my daughters car when she first bought it but havnt got any of the engine bay yet.(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/950454.jpg)
Thanks for the photo
The 1302S were sold in Australia as the SUPERBUG. I had one back around 1973... manual.. [would have been assembled in Australia]
It looks good. Those Alloy Wheels are common in Australia.
cheers
LEE in Australia