Hi All,
I would like to change my transmission oil on my 71 autoshift.
I don't have the draining plug, instead its the cover and the filing plug.
I bought the cover gasket, but before I will start working, few Q.
What is the servo oil canister under the right rear fender is? I know its used for the clutch.
if I drain the gear box oil will it drain this canister as well?
are those separate oil systems?
if yes, How to replace the oil in the canister and which oil to use?
Is there any filter to replace?
what gear box oil to use?
Can someone explain it top to bottom please :)
TX much,
Eran
Ok guys found what I was looking for here http://www.vwar.org/forum/index.php?topic=110.0
ATF cheers :P
Hi guys,
Opened the gear box oil pan no problem and drained the oil.
But before fill back the Castrol ep90 oil, i noticed a leak from the oil shafts seals.got this part number 113 301 189, can someone tell if its the right one for my 1302 71 SB??
Is there a guide or a YouTube video showing how to do it??
Tx much,
Eran
A small update (on my blog) found out its might be the oil seal between the engine and the gear box leaking not the seal on the gear box shaft, after all the car was sitting for 18 years...
So cleaned the chocolate from the pan and the inside of the gear box which had some forms of Crystallization (No magnet ??? ) Straight the panel back and paint it nice and shiny.
And filled it with 3.5l of ep90 Castrol classic oil.
Went on for the ATF change drained the oil from the oil reservoir and went on to run the old oil out by draining the return line which connect to the reservoir neck, this pipe was so old and stiff its broke right in my hands, guess its the original one... So now i have one more thing to fix :P
Hi,
every time You take the engine off the gearbox [after a few years] You MUST replace the torque converter oil seal... as it goes hard after being very hot with ATF automatic transmission Fluid [DEXRON MUST be used] and once the engine is moved [even slightly] the lips on the Torque converter seal get moved [because they are hard as] and the lips do NOT SEAL any longer.. so a new oil seal MUST be used.... You should also replace the engine oil seal too.... the rear drive gearbox seals should be replaced too.... they should be worn out by now.... Lee
Tx much Lee,
So far i painted and coated the oil tank with tar layer.
Replaced the oil pipes and plan to flash the old oil out.
I put the car back on the road a year ago 🙂
Im planning on taking the engine out.
I think it would be a great idea to have a guide posts for common tasks like the oil change volkenstein published, and also include the parts required + part numbers etc..
Guys, when assembling back the oil pipe, there are 2 coper washers, one is thin can someone tell which goes where when puting back the banjo?
Is the thin one goes twords the body? Or the thick one??? 😐
Help please 🥺
Finally managed to overcome this pipe replacement saga.
But now nothing seems to work, i can't put the car at any gear 😥
Before i would hear the engagement even when the car was not running with key on.
Now its all dead.
Do i need to drain the system from air??
One think on my mind is that the new oil pipe i put in have a smaller opening than the original had.
What else i might be missing!???
Please advise.
Tx,
Eran
Ooofff found the issue, the solenoid probably got stuck a tapped and its working. After more than a month we finally made it back on the road 😊
Since i managed to distroed the threading on the banjo...
I had to renew the threading, and change the banjo with a regular 45 degrees oil nipple which makes things a lot easier to work with. A big advice to anyone who attempt to change this oil pipe, take off the heater box , its worth the hassle and will let u fit the banjo back in place without damage, modern connection are usually 4mm. Original are around 7mm... I guess one can find the original, but i used the new one and its working. Tx and i hope someone will learn from my mistakes...