So I'm in the final stages of rebuilding my auto stick engine and I have rigged up two metal shims with holes and am bracing the drive plate using two of its holes into the engine cases holes. I can't use for because my engine stand prevents me.
The drive plate looks like it has bowed a millimeter or two for the two that I was holding it with. Just how much can it flex in a way that does not undermine or damage its use when installed back against the torque converter? What level of buggery can a drive plate take and be reinstalled and working order? Will it cause the torque converter to wobble etc.
Additionally I measured the end play as .005" without the drive plate installed. The engine originally had three shims of .24 mm. Everything on the engine is exactly the same parts except that I had taken the rotating assembly to a machinist. After checking the end play with three shims and torquing down the drive plate there does not appear to be any measurable end play. Taking away one shim, I am left with needing a shim of .17-.18 mm.
For that should I use extra fine sandpaper to file down one of my .24 mm shims to fit? I've also got one of the old flywheel paper gaskets for an earlier car I could maybe use. I ordered a micrometer and it will be getting here in a few days.
Any advice is appreciated! I have just 4 weeks to finish the engine, put the body back on, connect everything up, and hopefully be driving.
No replies? Surely I'm not the only one here restoring an autostick from scratch!
Found a magical solution:
I ended up winning an auction of a dearly departed VW club member for a super rare Matra 184 drive plate retaining ring. Paid out the nose, but it was worth it. Was able to torque the drive plate to spec with zero plate flexing.