VW Automatic Register

Here are some pics...

And More...

and more...

And the last, notice the "Before and After" contrast

Hiya Chris,

Wow!

Those are good looking parts Chris.  I was especially taken with your intake manifold.  At present I am converting my 1970 AS Bug back to its original 1600 single port.  And I am working long and hard on a single port intake manifold.  Its heat riser tube is blocked by exhaust carbon deposits.  Whew!  Tough job.

But what I'd really like to ask is this..............what did you paint the manifold with?  Same stuff as the heat exchanger?  I could not find high heat paint in a color somewhat close to the gray VW used for these parts.  The last manifold (a dual port) I did I used high heat gray primer.  Then I covered that with a couple of high heat clear coats.  Looks shiny but good color.  I'd rather have a high heat gray final coat with a more proper flat finish.

If your results are as good as your parts, you'll do nicely!

Great work Chris

and good to see fellow VW owners painting any color so long as its NOT black  ;D ;D ;D :D

and thanks for the pics...

We can't get enough pics

I hope You have success with your rebuild...


cheers

Lee

   


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I used a high temp primer for both the intake manifold and the heat exchanger.  The primer came from O'Reilly Auto Parts, it was a 500 degree primer.  This meant that I didn't need to cure the primer or the dark blue that I chose for the case.  I am wondering if I want to paint the manifold another color or just put a clear coat and leave the gray.  I think that it kinda offsets the blue well.  It was funny Bookwus that you mentioned the intake manifold.  I found that my manifold had a hole, about the size of a pencil eraser, on the underside of the pipe that goes to the right hand head.  If you look at the pic on the right side of the manifold there is a little dimple.  I filled the hole with a JB Weld compound that is supposed to withstand heat and I ground down the excess to fill the hole.  I did this also with my heat exchangers.  I hope that this holds well.  I am moving with my rebuild, however so slowly...

Thanks for the comments guys

Here are some pics of what I put together today...

Next...

And the last.  A little at a time...

Hiya Chris,

Indeed, a little at a time.

Taking your time and making sure everything is correct and clean is the only good way to build an engine.

Just out of curiosity..............on Spring Break?

No, my spring break was two weeks ago.  I was kinda on a homework break.  Senior level college courses can be a pain if you don't have a good distraction!! ;D ;D

Hiya Chris,

Oh, I well know just what you mean.  Been there, done that!

I thought it more than simple coincidence when I noticed the pictures of your engine building.  You see, I'm on Spring Break this week.  I reckoned that you finally had some time to do a little mechanical work.  But I see that you were trading a little "mental" time for some "physical".  A good idea before you burn out.

However, speaking as a teacher (uh-oh........can you see it coming?) you are within sight of that diploma now.  Keep on plugging away, you'll be glad you did.

Bookwus, I would have never guessed you were a teacher.  What do you teach?  Yeah, I have been in college straight for the last 5 years taking at least 15-18 hours per semester.  I can get kinda tired of school work, but I do understand that the diploma is important and I don't want to give up now just because I am so close!!  I already have an Associates in Drafting and Design and still do alot of that for work.  I am now pursuing a Bachelors in Land Surveying at Miss. State.  The VW is my escape from reality and school.  I have always liked to tinker on things and I guess that is why the process is so slow.

Hiya Chris,

Oh man!  Five years is a long haul.  A seeming eternity at your age.  You are to be congratulated for your perserverence!  A college education is something that can never be taken from you - a true asset for life.  It is definitely worth those long hours.

Although I have taught at almost all levels (elementary through adult education) most of my career has been spent at the elementary level.  And most of that experience has centered on grades 3 through 6.  Right now I have come out of retirement to take over a combined 5-6 class for a colleague who has just had a baby.  I'll be in this position through the end of the current school year.

By all means stay on course and grab that diploma.  But do take the time to pursue other interests (such as the Bug) because without those "distractions" one winds up rather burnt out and one-dimensional.

Hiya Chris,

Just a random thought.................

If your intake manifold repair does not work out for you, I have been working on a single port intake manifold for my engine.  It is in relatively good shape, but the preheat tube is clogged up with carbon.  I have been (and will continue) to work on clearing it out.  However, in the meantime I have stumbled into a nearly perfect SP AS manifold.  I am now going to use this new manifold on my project - it's at the powdercoater's right now.  That means I'll have an extra should you need one.  And, hopefully, by the time you might need one I'll have this one cleaned out and ready to go.

Thanks Bookwus, I should be near putting the case halves together by Friday of this week. So I should know in a week or two?  I have a question tho, and it could be a matter of opinion.  Have the connecting rods already mounted to the pistons or connect the crankshaft to the connecting rods first, put the case together and then install the pistons.  I haven't decided which to use, but I do remember that it was easier to take apart with the connecting rods left on the crank.  Thanks

Hiya Chris,

Yep, this might well be a matter of opinion.

Me?  I'd install the pistons after the case.  This would help to prevent any scuffing of the pistons.

Just me.

Hey Chris,  Looks like you are doing it right I.E. having fun with the rebuild. I noticed from the pictures that you have some overspray on the case sealing halves. Just a friendly warning to be very careful when removing that paint(you are going to remove it?) It is tough to get the case halves to seal and that paint will most probably cause a leak. I believe (be sure to look it up) that the case bolts only have 18 ft/lbs of torque. It is plenty to seal good surfaces and more torque than specified in the manual wont seal uneven surfaces, it  will just warp the case. I also noticed more paint on the bosses where the cylinders meet the engine case and the pushrod tube seats.  It will probably be a drag to take off but it will, again, most likely leak oil if you don't.  Over at the samba website in the performance/engines forum is a thread about sealants to use on the case halves and other places. Good stuff.  Well enough with the unsolicited advice. Good luck with the build and let us know how it turns out.

Thanks for the heads up greenghia, any help or tips are appreciated.  I planned on taking the paint off with my dremel tool with a wire brush attachment.  I hope to have the case ready to seal by this weekend.  We shall see.

Well the engine is still coming along, however I have run into a snag.  Last night I was staying up late to finish some homework and bug work, I read in one of the latest issues of Hot VW's about setting the distributor in line with the crank, so I decided to remove the distributor drive.  One must remove the plastic fuel pump mount to remove the distributor drive.  Well, the 39 year old part broke, right off in the block.  I have most of the pieces removed and have cleaned out the fragments, but there is still about a 1/2" piece of the plastic still in the tapered part of the block.  What would the best course of action be to remove this piece of plastic?  The case has still not been put together.  Thanks guys.

Greenghia,
I did remove the paint, thanks for the tip!

Hiya Chris,

You might want to try this................

Find a wood screw with slightly larger diameter than the hole at the bottom of the plastic mount.  Screw it in very carefully.  When it has a good "bite" go ahead and pull up on the screw head.  You should be able to get the mount out in one piece.

By the way, drain your oil so that any pieces of plastic that have dropped in the sump can be removed.  Don't be too paranoid about all this.  The plastic is not going to do any harm to the internals - but it is a good idea to get rid of as much of it as is possible.

I believe the base for the fuel pump is made from bakelite
which is VERY brittle
and doesn't like any pressure from any direction...
it just breaks away....

Pull the drive pin out..
then you need a screwdriver with the end bent into a hook
so You can go down thru the center to the bottom
and pull the bakelite piece out....

or a tool that looks like a screwdriver with a bend in the end...

as you don't want the screwdriver's end breaking off....

Lee


http://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug

Update

I have removed the piece of bakelite from the engine block and have proceeded on with the rebuild.  Today I put the rebuild kit into my oil pump and I made sure to clean out all of the parts in the process.  The pump looks like new and has all new seals.  Since my last post I decided to remove the body on the car.  As I get deeper and deeper into the restoration I find parts that need fixing/replacing.  Today I also found out that the PO of the bug removed the stabilizer from the front axle and placed it in the car.  I had this strange looking rod in the car and I almost junked it when I bought the car.  Thankfully I kept the piece.  I noticed the tires were kinda bowed out and that is what triggered me to find out why.  Still in progress, summer doesn't look too profitable for bug work, summer school...

I will have some pics up soon

Chris

I do have one question.  Out of my new gasket kit I cannot figure out these 5 sets of gaskets.  Could someone help me determine where they need to go?  Thanks

Hi Chris,
there are 'O' rings under the pieces that hold the tappets and shaft together
so, You would need 4 of those
they go over the two studs on both heads

I have white o rings but used black ones as i couldn't find the white ones at the time.


Lee

Ok, I have set my distributor and I have been cleaning other parts.  I have found out what gaskets under number 5 were, ... but as for 1, 2, 3, 4, I dont know.  I would appreciate some help.  Thanks

Chris

Hiya Chris,

Just a couple of guesses from me..............

4 looks like a distributor "O" ring and 3 looks like oil cooler seals.

How large a diameter is No 4? Maybe a flexplate/flywheel o-ring?

No 1's...hard plastic or rubber? Hard plastic may be new throttle shaft bushes?

HTH
Volkenstein