Hello from Croatia-Europe,
I am new here and I ask you for little help.I have a Karmann Ghia 69 with automatick stick shift. My previous KG was a manual shift and I dont know nothing about AS.
I have problem, when I put on 1. geer my car litle jumping and accelerate so slowly. In reverse I have no problem with this just a litle scrape but accelerated is immediately.
Can you help me, what do you thinking, what can I do? Please step by step,I am just a beginner.
Sorry for my bad english and thanks for help.
Hi
here is the gearshift pattern
REVERSE DRIVE 1
NEUTRAL
LOW DRIVE 2
If You are driving in Drive 2 - You will be going much slower than in reverse
In Drive 1 - You will also be going much slower than reverse
In LOW Gear - You will accelerate very fast... [same as in reverse]
I'm NOT sure what gear you were in, when you said "1st gear"
Lee
http://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug
Hi KG,
You're the first member from Croatia on this board! Do you know there is a guy called "croatian VW club" on www.shoptalkforums.com ? Might be worth sending him a private message to find out where other VW owners are in Croatia.
So, to business.
You say "1"....but...A '69 semi-automatic beetle/KG has 3 "ranges". Low, Range 1 and Range 2. It is like 2nd, 3rd and 4th in a manual. The shift pattern is like so :
R R1
. :
........
: :
L R2
So when you say "1", where is your gearstick (like the picture)?
To me, if it is OK in Reverse but bad in "1"...best to make sure you are not in "R2" by mistake.
I would check your ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) level to make sure you have enough oil and that it has a nice light cherry red colour.
Try that first and let us know what happened.
If you have a digital camera....pictures are always a great help when trying to fix things. Most of us here can look at an engine picture and spot incorrect things easily.
EDIT :
There ya go! Lee has the picture. Hmmm...looks like the night owls and the daybreakers are on the job ;D
HTH (Hope That Helps)
Volkenstein
Hiya KG,
Welcome!
Your English is great! As Sean and Lee have already mentioned, we do need to call the gear ranges by the same names so we can understand what we are all talking about. This forum is a great resource for you. Be sure to ask lots of questions. There are people here who can help you.
And do take lots of pictures, especially of the engine. Pictures can be very important in helping solve problems. It is very easy to post pictures on this forum, but if you need help just let us know.
Thanks for those fast answers. I was talk about range 1. Am I wrong, I`m starting with range 1?
I will posting a some pictures of my car toomorow, what specific areas you need?
In Croatia there is a lot of air VW owners, there is a couple VW classic clubs and lot of meeting. But unfortunately, I don`t know anybody with AS shift.
In my country most of people prefer manual stick shift in a car. We are a temper people and we like a little faster driving.
This is my first classic car with AS shift, I have KG coupe 1969 and KG cabrio(vert) 1968.
Again thanks for so fast respond and please help me.
Hiya KG,
OK!
As we mentioned before, the shift pattern for an AutoStick looks like an "H". Upper left=Reverse, Lower left=Low, Upper right=First, Lower right=Second.
Most of us start out our cars in Low. We then shift into First at about 25mph and we shift into Second at about 40mph.
If you are having problems with shift action (such as an abrupt or harsh shift) we need to see pictures of your carburetor and your control valve. Just a general picture of your engine (get as close as you can) will probably be OK.
Finaly , I have a pics.
Hiya KG,
Thanks for the pictures.
It looks as if everything is hooked up correctly. However, it is very hard to be sure due to the distance in the first picture. Can you take closer pictures of the carburetor and the control valve?
Your engine is an "H5" series. The "H5" series engines were (in their original form) 53 hp SAE/44 hp DIN single ports. Interestingly, the "H5" series was produced for the North American market. Was your car imported from the USA or Canada? Finally, your engine serial number, H5759437, indicates that the engine was originally produced early in the 1969 model year.
Yes I was import this car from New Jersey-USA and motor is orginal. I have a original manual with win and motor serial no.
My last KG 67 was from Germany,2. owner,6V with 80 tkm and I steel cry for this car.This was a moment of weaknesses.Never again.Belive me, you never see a original car like this.Look at the pics.
Tomorow I will take a new pics of my motor on AS Ghia.
Ok?
2.
KG,
You do have a problem with your carburettor setup. The carb you have is a Solex H30/31 Pict. In your picture, the model of carb is on the left hand side of the fuel bowl. It should say H30/31 as you have a single port motor.
Your vacuum line (small one) to the CV (Control Valve) is connected in the wrong place on the carburretor. It is currently on a vacuum port used for emissions equipment.
Just above the small hose in your picture (Number 1) there is a brass tube just to the right of the one that has a cap on it. That is where your vacuum line to your CV should be. Make sure someone hasn't blocked that brass tube. It has a hole that runs through to the carb venturi.
Block off the brass pipe where that vacuum hose is now. A short length of hose with a screw and clamp or something will do it.
If that brass pipe is not blocked at this time, you may be drawing air into your motor.
I would suggest that you perform a thorough tune-up (valves, points and then carburettor adjustment) after you have moved the vacuum hose.
Picture No 2, eveything looks OK. You adjust how fast the clutch works by taking off the cap you can see on top of the CV and using a screwdriver to turn the adjustment screw in or out by 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
HTH
Volkenstein
Hiya KG,
These pictures are VERY helpful.
Sean is correct! The small vacuum hose from the Control Valve to the carburetor is hooked up to the carburetor in the WRONG place. This connection will result in abrupt shifts. Please make sure you connect this small vacuum hose as Sean has instructed and be absolutely sure that the bottom vacuum port is capped off.
I am very grateful.
I don`t understand every your words ( that is my problem with english) and I must cerfuly read yours very detailed explanations.
I will try to understand and do this.Some scheme will help me?
Thanks again.
Ps. that is my babe.
Hiya KG,
We understand your problem with English. We will try to make our directions as simple as we can.
However, your English is much better than our Serbo-Croat!
What did you NOT understand?
OK. Is it that?
What can I espect after this, can I eliminate a starting jumping?
I must say, I am very nicely surprised with yours carefully and facility. Where are you from people?
If I can help you at any sense I will be happy.
KG,
Exactly right.
Just make sure someone hasn't stuck a screw or silicone into the brass pipe before you move the hose. Once you move the hose block off the pipe that is now left "open".
Quotecan I eliminate a starting jumping
If you put the car into gear and it jumps or you feel a "thump" then yes. This will make it smoother.
I am from Australia.
PS. Very nice car you have!
HTH
Volkenstein (Sean)
Hiya KG,
As Sean has already said, moving that hose should correct your problem.
Please post a picture of your carburetor after you move the hose.
I'm from the USA.
Quote from: Bookwus on 03 July 2008, 20:06
Most of us start out our cars in Low. We then shift into First at about 25mph and we shift into Second at about 40mph.
Mike,
I was told by a friend who has an AS to start in "1", is that wrong ? I was also told starting in "L" was less fuel effecient. I think I read that in an AS brochure I have as well. Which method is better, starting in "1" or "L"?
Hiya Stephanie,
Good question and there are a couple of factors that directly influence my answer.
1. You mentioned that an AS brochure recommended starting in First. What one needs to remember is that the AutoStick was developed and marketed to cater to a specific market in the late sixties. VW recognized that there was a potential market for those who did not want to drive a manual transmission equipped Bug but still wanted a Bug. This market consisted of younger drivers and women. Consequently VW made much of the fact that the car COULD be placed in First and driven around town all day - just like a true automatic. This was not necessarily the best way to drive the car, but it was a very good way for VW to market and sell the car.
2. If you speak to any VW mechanic (or hobbyist for that matter) they will tell you to a man that one of the worst things you can do to any VW engine is to lug it. Basically lugging an engine is driving it in a gear too high and asking the engine to deliver torque out of its power band. Very hard on the engine internals and clutch components. There has been discussion here on VWAR that driving in one gear (First) can take a toll on the TC seal.
Now the torque converter in an AutoStick will take care of a lot of the "lugging factor" but not all of it. It's still important to the mechanical well-being of the car to match up the gear to the requirements of the drive.
3. Truthfully, there has been no specific proof either way as to whether driving in one gear or running through the gears is better for the car mechanically. However, it certainly seems that running through the gears allows for a better match of the driving conditions to the engine's power band (avoiding lugging) and many of us prefer the improvement in performance that accompanies running through the gears.
Mike,
I do shift gears from "1" to "2" around 25 or 30 mph, and that's in town driving, so I don't stay in one gear the whole time and of course definately not on the freeways here, you'll get run over if you go that slow. The shifting is not the issue with me, its the clutch, I have a bad knee and it can't take the extra strain on it constantly pushing the clutch in. I will try starting out in "L" and see how it does or if it seems to make a difference, if not will starting in "1" be alright since I am changing gears and down shifting when I slow to a stop? ???
Stephanie
Hiya Stephanie,
Quote from: buggerfly on 30 July 2008, 05:50 .........The shifting is not the issue with me, its the clutch, I have a bad knee and it can't take the extra strain on it constantly pushing the clutch in........
Hmmmm? I take it you are referring to driving a manual transmission. Or am I misunderstanding something there?
QuoteI will try starting out in "L" and see how it does or if it seems to make a difference, if not will starting in "1" be alright since I am changing gears and down shifting when I slow to a stop?
Stephanie, you need to do what's right for you. If you are comfortable driving the car and shifting from First to Second (not using Low) the car is not going to fall apart. While there has been speculation that it might be better for the car to run through the complete range, it is only speculation. No hard facts to back that up, just some random observations. But give shifting from Low to First to Second a try. Heck! You might like it.
Hi Stephanie,
its OK to start off in any of the Gears..
I like to use LOW when at traffic lights [in larger towns]
its great to beat the other cars off the line.. lol
whether it uses more Gas.....maybe
but starting in Drive 1 You need to rev the motor to get the torque converter going..
and really rev the engine to get going in Drive 2..
so I'm not sure which gear will save your Gas
excepting Drive 2 when out on the highway.... lol
I believe you should use Drive 1 and drive 2
and Low now and then...
I find Low is a bit too high geared when parking...
Drive 1 is much better... but I normally use Low....lol
cheers
LEE
Hi , me again.I was moving that hose but I have a same problem only a minor jumping at starting.
Again, my car accelerate in low or in 1. so slow.
Can you suggest me how can I change my AS oil ond which oil is good for me?
Hiya KG,
Quote from: KG on 04 August 2008, 13:02
Hi , me again.I was moving that hose but I have a same problem only a minor jumping at starting.
Your small vacuum hose needs to be hooked up just as in this picture............
(http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa85/Bookwus1/Bug/IMG_0783.jpg)
QuoteAgain, my car accelerate in low or in 1. so slow.
It sounds like you need to do a stall test to determine if your torque converter is working properly.
QuoteCan you suggest me how can I change my AS oil ond which oil is good for me?
Sean (Volkenstein) has an excellent way of removing/flushing the ATF (AS oil). I'll let him explain that for you. Your ATF should be anything with a DEXRON name. For example, Dexron, Dexron 1, Dexron 2, etc. Just look for Dexron.
Hi KG,
Along with what has been suggested already, look at the hoses/pipes going to and from the A-S Oil Pump. They should not be dented and stuff. If you have a pressure guage the ATF pressure should be around 52 psi maximum.
Castrol is a fairly universal oil, so use any marked Dexron. Here is a little procedure I wrote :
QuoteATF. Better with two people. 2 gallons of DEXRON 111 ATF + 1 bottle (or 10 litres, take your pick).
If it is the ATF that is discoloured, best thing to do is get the tank drained first and then flush the system. First things first. Clean the bottom banjo bolt and surrounding area. Then do the same at the hose connection on the filler neck.
So, place a large container under the tank bottom then undo the banjo bolt. It's advisable to give the spanner some sharp blows to "crack" it loose. Watch for the copper washers! Undo all the way and let all the ATF drain out. Refit the banjo bolt and washers (in sequence!) and give it 25ft/lb torque.
Next, undo the return line from the filler tank neck. Place a length of spare garden hose over it and run it into a bucket. Fill the ATF tank with fresh oil. Have a friend start the car and let it idle. Keep adding ATF to the tank as the old rubbish pumps out. Check the colour of oil coming out of the hose. Keep cycling new oil into the tank until the oil coming out of the hose is a beautiful light cherry red. Stop the engine. Check the ATF oil level with the dipstick. Say...1/2" below the top mark is good. Add or drain as necessary. Take the garden hose off and refit the hose to the filler neck. A firm wrist twist to tighten it.
Your car's ATF tank is in the engine compartment, not underneath the fender like on Beetles.
Try all this before you move on to the stall-speed test.
HTH
Sean
Quote from: Bookwus on 30 July 2008, 06:42
Hiya Stephanie,
Quote from: buggerfly on 30 July 2008, 05:50 .........The shifting is not the issue with me, its the clutch, I have a bad knee and it can't take the extra strain on it constantly pushing the clutch in........
QuoteHmmmm? I take it you are referring to driving a manual transmission. Or am I misunderstanding something there?
Yes Mike, you are right, that is why I chose the auto stick, manual transmissions just aren't possible for me anymore.
QuoteI will try starting out in "L" and see how it does or if it seems to make a difference, if not will starting in "1" be alright since I am changing gears and down shifting when I slow to a stop?
Stephanie, you need to do what's right for you. If you are comfortable driving the car and shifting from First to Second (not using Low) the car is not going to fall apart. While there has been speculation that it might be better for the car to run through the complete range, it is only speculation. No hard facts to back that up, just some random observations. But give shifting from Low to First to Second a try. Heck! You might like it.
I have been driving the car starting in "L" and shifting to "1" and then "2" and down shifting when I slow down or stop and its a lot like driving the manual transmissions just no clutch. Seems to pick up speed better for take off, as Lee said. Thanks for helpingme with this guys.
Hi Stephanie
what I have been doing lately
is starting out in Low gear then shifting to Drive 2
and this works very well.... and probably saves gas when i'm in Drive 2
All the VW manuals say - Only Use Low gear when driving up a steep driveway..
I've only found one book that says its better to use the three gears...
When you think that a person in a manual beetle has to use 1st 2nd 3rd etc
to get the car moving...
I don't think We would use much more gas by using Low gear...
as it doesn't hurt to rev a car engine a bit and we are accelerating and keeping up with
or overtaking [lol] the other cars....
Once you get used to using LOW gear, its seems very slow in drive 1 ...
cheers
LEE
http://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug
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Hi All,
I am very new to forums so forgive me if I post things wrong. Reading this thread, it would completely solve my problem if I could see the pictures posted. Unfortunately they come up all pixelated. I too have a H30/31 PICT carb and a 69 autostick with a 009 centrifugal-only advance. I suspect the AS control valve is plugged into the wrong carb vacuum port (it has four ports in all). Any help with the correct port on the H30/31 PICT carb would be appreciated.
thanks in advance for your help.
Hi
I cannot find a pic of My H30/31 carburetor but I did find a note that I changed to the lower vacuum port.
I'm not using that carburetor at the moment. I tried for many months to get it to run correctly, if I got it to idle correct it wouldn't run correctly, and if I got it to run correctly it would stop every time I stopped the car. At present I am using a BRasillian WEBER carburetor that was made to fit VW engines. I happened to find a new one. I haven't been able to find any information on these Brasil WEBER carburetors as all information is in Portuguese.... No one seems to know anything about them. I did read that a H30/31 can come with the incorrect jets fitted from the factory. I haven't pulled Mine apart as yet. I was also told they were made in a factory not a laboratory so there can be lots of shavings inside the carburetor also... I have to find My H30/H31 to check it out and take pics..
Lee in Australia
Hi Joeypaul, welcome to vwar!
I ran an H30/31 for several years on my autostick bug, it seemed to run OK but I switched to the correct Solex carb a few years back.
Anyway here is a photo I took of the vacuum connections on the H30/31:
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/887963.jpg)
Note that the autostick control valve vacuum line is connected to the upper right port facing the back of the car. And the lower angled port is capped off.
Since you are running an 009 you will not have the vacuum advance or retard vacuum lines like I do, they will need to be capped off as well.
Hi
It seems I may have had My H30/31 hoses incorrectly connected to the Distributor and control valve???
I bought a new SVDA [single vacuum dual advance Distributor from the USA a few years ago and it advanced as soon as I touched the pedal [vacuum] but it only worked perfectly for about a month. I contacted the Guy in the USA and He said to pull it apart to see if I had dropped a screw in it... so I dismantled it, but I had not dropped anything into the bottom of the... anyway I never did get the vacuum part of that distributor working. If I suck on the distributor hose the distributor moves like it should??Advances.... ???
I also didn't get the H30/31 working correctly also after many months.... so it is back in the box. I was going to check what jets were in it, as I have read where sometimes all the jets are incorrect... I did write down somewhere the correct jet numbers... A local beetle owner was installing twin carburetors on His beetle but the jets were much too big, so He soldered up all the jets and then bought a set of drills that were jet sizes... very small... and redrilled all the jets.... Amazing.. Ihave tried a few carburetors but the distributor still doesn't advance with VACUUM only mechanical.... The Vacuum advance is unreal.... I've put My Bosch 009 distributor away...
Actually, the vacuum advance did work while the distributor had points in it. When I replaced the points with electronic ignition I bought from the USA.
with the distributor.... the vacuum stopped working... The points didn't last long even though I kept them greased....!!! I have checked out the distributor a few times and it seems perfect... as new... no screws or washers in in it....
Lee in Australia 40C degrees today [again] actual road surface temp would be around 50c degrees or more...