1969 V.W. Stickshift automatic, will not shift at idle, when put into gear and then started will not come out of gear unless by force. Shifts fine going down the road from 1st to 2nd and back. Is there a repair manual for the stickshift automatic?
Barb,
You need the Robert Bentley Publications manual for a '69. Commonly referred to as The Blue Bentley.
Quotewhen put into gear and then started
That shouldn't happen. I smell bypassed wiring....
If you want, I have a scanned Autostick section of the BB. 6 Megabytes in your inbox. PM or email me and I'll send it.
Also, spend time reading this tech section. There is more "practical" knowledge here as well as info on things that aren't clear in the BB.
HTH
Volkenstein
Hiya Barb,
Welcome to the forum!
The Bentley "Blue" Manual is probably the best manual you will find to address the needs of a '69 AutoStick. It has a very good technical section dedicated to the AS. Check it out here.......
http://www.amazon.com/Volkswagen-Beetle-Karmann-Service-Manual/dp/0837604168/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1219969261&sr=8-4
But do know that Bentley often assumes that his reader already has some VW specific mechanical experience and tools. Should you get to a hang-up with Bentley and how to deal with an AS related problem, be sure to come see us. We can usually get folks back on the correct track.
As a matter of fact, you might want to give us a more thorough description of the shifting action (or lack thereof) and we may be able to get you started on the right trail before the Bentley shows up in your mailbox.
Hi Barb
Yes, the blue Bentley is the VW bible, but as was noted above it does assume that You are a Mechanic and
have the special VW tools... which of couse We don't have..
First off - You shouldn't be able to start the car in gear... [although it would be helpful at times.. lol]
it sounds like a simple thing - maybe a cracked vacuum hose...
We have found its best to replace all the vacuum hoses.. and replace all the hose clamps too..
this is the best and cheapest way to start....
You cannot fix anything if the hoses are leaking... or if the incorrect hoses have been used, they can suck in too..
once all these have been renewed , chances are the system will work OK again..
if Not... its NOT the hoses...
but maybe a simple clutch servo adjustment...
but usually if the problem just appears as yours Has...
its usually the hoses....
the other place it may happen - check the two wires on the control valve on the LHS of the engine bay.
also check to make sure the control valve makes a noise [works OK] when the gearshifter knob is moved
forwards and backwards.. if it doesn't make a clicking noise.. check the wire at the bottom of the gearshifter rod.
there is also electrical points in the base of the shifter lever.. so if they need cleaning - no clicking at the control valve
I find some of the Haynes books great - You can buy them used very cheaply from amazon.com in the US..
cheers and all the best Barb
Lee [Australia]
Here is a pic of the control valve and two wires..
I hope this helps Barb
Cheers
LEE
Thank you, I am so happy I found this forum, this is awesome. I will replace all the hoses and let you know what happens.
Have a Great Day!
Hiya Barb,
Quote from: Barb on 30 August 2008, 03:28
Thank you, I am so happy I found this forum, this is awesome. I will replace all the hoses and let you know what happens.
Be sure that any of the 12mm vacuum hosing you replace is wire reinforced!
Quote from: Barb on 29 August 2008, 00:34
1969 V.W. Stickshift automatic, will not shift at idle, when put into gear and then started will not come out of gear unless by force.
Hi Barb,
I wish I had this sort of start up when I first got My 68 Beetle on the road...
I used to jack up the RHS of the beetle climb under and short out the starter motor solenoid to start it...
and it was always IN gear.. lol and tried to drive away... Yikes...it even happened at a gas station... lol...
I normally leave it in gear... so it won't start... I know what to do know.. ;D ;D ;D :D
cheers have a good weekend - Saturday already over here...
LEE
I have seen in several posts that the fuel filter should not be under the hood, where should i place a fuel filter. Mine is exactly in the same place as some of the pics.
Hiya Barb,
The problem with the fuel filter location in the engine compartment is one of potential fire. And fire can go through one of these cars like you would not believe.
Many folks elect to place their fuel filter just forward of the front engine tin. To find this spot, start by tracing your fuel line back towards your gas tank from the fuel pump. As you stand at the rear of the car you'll find that the fuel line will move over to the left hand side of the engine and then bend forward towards the front of the car. It will then run through the forward engine tin (more about this spot later). Now crawl under the car and you'll see the fuel line as moves forward alongside the transmission. This is an acceptable place for fuel filter placement.
When I placed mine I went even further and placed the fuel filter under the gas tank. Take a look....
(http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa85/Bookwus1/Bug/IMG_0748.jpg)
I fabricated a couple of brackets to hold the fuel filter to the forwaqrd wall of the passenger cabin under the gas tank. Notice also that clamps are used.
And about that spot where the fuel lines passes through the forward engine tin. There is supposed to be a grommet here to prevent the fuel line chaffing on the engine tin. Unfortunately this grommet wears out fast. And when it does that fuel line starts wearing on the engine tin - not a good thing. I fixed mine to a no-worry state by doing this.....
(http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa85/Bookwus1/Bug/IMG_0745.jpg)
Just a few lamp parts from a hardware store. I run the fuel line right through a "safe passage" and I don't have to worry about fires. I have more fire prevention details (including how to make this pass-through) if you want them.
Hi i have a manual from Haynes(for beetle 1303), there is also some informatiom in about automatics.
dont know exactly what, couse my autostick never had any problems, so i didnt look in it very well.
The idee of probbaly a vacuum problem sounds logic to me.
Succes.
Gerwin
It's fixed. The wire from the shifter was broken, fixed that and it works great now. Thanks for all the help. I did replace some worn hose's and I will reposition the fuel filter, God knows what I'll need next but I will be around.. Oh Fo Sho.
Didn't take me long to think of my next problem. The shifter is sloppy tried adjusting just with the plate. What else can I do?
Hiya Barb,
Congratulations on locating that loose wire!
Shifter sloppiness....................More than likely you have a problem with the shift rod (the long tube gizmo that lives inside your tunnel) support or connection.
Shift Rod support..........if you remove your shift lever and look rerward into the tunnel you can see that your sift rod is supported by a bracket that hangs from the top of the tunnel. The bracket is just aft of the shift lever hole. Inside that bracket (and around the shift rod) should be a plastic bushing. It should be in good shape and well greased. Know that this is a classic VW problem area. Almost everybody (AS and manual alike) that complains about sloppy shifting finds that replacing this little bushing makes a big difference.
Shift Rod connection......... now remove the oval shaped inspection plate at the rear of the tunnel (you'll have to jettison the rear seat to get at the insppection plate). The gizmo that you see under the inspection plate is the shift rod connector. It transfers shift rod movement to the selector rod (commonly called a hockey stick) for the transmission. Any movement of the shift rod, lateral or forwards or backwards should be transferred to the hockey stick with no slop.
Like the shift rod bushing, new shift rod connectors are easily found and pretty cheap.
Can these be replaced through the inspection holes?
Thank You for all your help, this is making my adventure go smoothly.
Hiya Barb,
Yes, both parts can be replaced via their closest openings.
However, in order to replace the shift rod bushing the shift rod itself will have to come out of the tunnel. To remove it you will have to undo the shift coupler (and since you are doing that, it makes good sense to just replace the shift coupler if it's in questionable shape) and then move the shift rod forward in the tunnel.
The tunnel has an access plate at its forward end (you'll have to get under the car to get at it), remove that and work the shift rod further forward. Now it will be blocked by the spare tire well. Remove the spare tire and remove the plates (rear and front of the well) and move the shift rod through that area.
Thank You, I get at that next week. ;D