hello,
I am new to the list and just purchased a 1969 autostick beetle. The car had not been run for a couple of years, but I got it running and drove it around a little bit. At first it would shift into drive 1 and drive 2 fairly easily, but reverse and low would grind. I replaced the vaccum lines and adjusted the clutch free play and everything worked good for a day. Now it does not want to idle and will not shift at all. I took the vacuum line off of the control solenoid that goes to the intake and the motor would idle so I assumed that I had a vacuum leak. I then took the line off the servo and plugged it, and the engine will idle. I checked the control solenoid and it appears to be working correctly, along with the contacts in the shifter. My question is, can the servo be rebuilt and do I have to remove it from the car to do so. Also, should the control solenoid be energized when the car is in the nuetral position?
Thanks,
Jim
Hi Jim,
Welcome to the board! Yes the servo's can be rebuilt. Two options, if you need a clamp (because you have a crimped on strap) and diaphragm, www.evwparts.com has a reasonably priced complete kit that'll do it. If you have a clamp that uses a screw fixing already, you can buy the diaphragm separately if you wish.
Since you have been hard at it already, what condition are the vacuum hoses in? Those large bore ones are 12mm I.D. wire reinforced jobbies.
Your solenoid is "hot" from the + side of the coil, the gearstick earths the circuit and fires it.
I really should cattle prod myself and transfer my little article from the old forum to the D.I.Y. section about servo rebuilding.
HTH
Volkenstein
Hi
Firstly,
I believe the things You did, can be normal...
If You can still engage Drive 1 and drive 2
the servo must still be working...
it seems the Clutch servo needs adjusting..
I'll show you some pics on How to adjust it...
its not an easy process due to where you need to access the adjuster
unless you have very small hands anda arms.. lol ;D
the Control valve is ONLY activated when You move the gearshifter knob
forward or backwards..
at all other times its disconnected...
You could lay under the LHS of the gearbox and watch the servo arm
to see if it moves while someone moves the gearshifter
If there is no vacuum in the vacuum tank
the engine would need to be going...
Normally, there is enough vacuum in the vacuum tank
for approx 6 or more gear shifts after the engine is turned off..
You need to undo the lock nut on the adjuster
then turn the adjuster towards the locknut..
try about One full turn - then ,
check if you can select Low or reverse..
repeat until You can select reverse without crunching..
I had to do this recently, as I had left the locknut loose
and the arm slowly unscrewed...
and when I went to adjust it.. it came apart....
naturally, I couldn't select any gear without crunching....
then no gears at all..
Lee
[/size]
Thank you for replying so quickly. I replaced the larger vacuum hoses with 1/2" vacuum hose from the local auto parts store, have not been able to find metric lines locally and the 1/2" seem to fit ok. I believe the servo is leaking because the engine will not idle unless I remove the vacuum line from the servo and plug it. Is it possible to repair the servo while it is still in the vehicle?
Thanks again
Jim
Sean has replied while i was typing... lol
Its best to replace all the vacuum hoses
before renewing anything, as a cracked hose or two
will not be fixed by new parts..
the hoses really need to be replaced anyway...
and ,if you have any problems then...
You can replace parts...
but these parts are lasting very well...
cheers
LEE
Hi
its not possible to do anything to the servo unless you take it off...
its not that hard to take off...
I've had mine off probably 8 times... lol
there are three screws that hold it on...
three nuts to undo...
You will really have to look for the nuts with a torch
as they are hidden very well...
I usually take the bracket off at the same time...
I'll try to find a pic for you of the bracket and servo..
and after Your last post...
it does sound like the servo has a hole in it...
take the hose off the servo...
Now take the pin out of the clutch/servo arms
and pull the servo arm out then put Your finger over the hose pipe
and the servo should stay where it is until You release the vauum
by taking yiur finger off the vacuum outlet pipe
if the servo adjuster moves back in while your finger is over the pipe outlet
the servo diaphram has a hole in it...
Lee
thank you again,
I will pull the servo off tomorrow and have a look at it. This is my first beetle and so far I am pretty impressed with it, I wouldn't have believed that a car from 1969 could have over 150,000 miles on it and still be roadworthy!
Jim
Yes,
its unreal to be able to drive these cars which still have many
of the original parts...
the parts were made from extremely good steel or other materials..
plus I doubt if you will ever see another car on the road
with running boards... ;D ;D ;D
Apart from the major Rust problems in some climates
these cars are still lasting...
early 1960 model beetles are still being found in great condition in Australia
cheers
LEE
Here is a pic of two servo brackets
one nice black one and one ugly looking one ;D ;D
I can now say its been painted ... lol
3 nuts keep the bracket on
3 nuts and 3 spacers keep the servo on...
Lee
http://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug
Jim,
1/2 inch hose? Brake booster hose at minimum!!! www.belmetric.com , part No RH12W is what u need. Ring them and plead. They list themselves as wholesale, but Ralph (Lomando) shipped me 6 feet of it to Australia.
I realised later I hadn't mentioned a relatively cheap test for the servo diaphragm. Pull the hose off the spigot at the servo, put a finger over the opening and with your other hand try to push the clutch arm toward the Bellhousing. If it moves, it's blown. If it won't budge...you have a problem somewhere else.
Then, just do what Lee's mentioned to remove it.
Enjoy
Volkenstein