All,
Copying this from the old forum and adding the piccie links.
All,
Since I'm in the mood and working on the spare parts, I've pulled apart the spare Servo to have a look.
Here's the shot :
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e210/ctefeh/VWSERVO/57a5f3ef.jpg~original)
The only suspect thing apart from a little rust, is just to the left you can see what looks like a "C" washer is in fact a hard paper gasket from the base of the adjuster and I'll be making an aluminium replacement and a smidge of gasgacinch to seal it.
Any questions....feel free.
Enjoy
Volkenstein
Reply by Bookwus (Mike)
Hiya volk,
Good shot of the beast disassembled!
For what it might be worth for anyone out there, rebuild kits (basically the rubber bladder) are available for around $20.00 US.
And volk, a helpful hint, paint one face of your long adjusting nut. It really helps when you're under the car adjusting the clutch. Makes it very easy to count your turns.
Mike
1970 AS Bug
Mike,
Red hot tip there! I'll be Rustbullet-ing it after cleaning/stripping so I'll use a bit to do the face.
Some additional info for people having a look....the big nut is 27mm and the eye bolt adjuster is left hand thread.
Thanks
Volkenstein
All,
Did the Rustbullet and paint. Here it is ready to for assembly.
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e210/ctefeh/VWSERVO/Servostrt.jpg~original)
I've laid the spring over one of the studs, making sure the whole bottom fit's inside those three captive nuts.
I did make an aluminium washer for the adjusting stud, 1mm thick, heavily chamfered on the inside diameter as the base of the stud is slightly tapered and coated it with Permatex. Did it all up after centering the diaphragm, and adjusted it as per "new clutch plate" measurements.
Next, drop that assembly into the front (bracket side) of the servo through the spring and it will sit quite neatly. I've just steadied the adjusting rod while I popped the rear section on, with the vacuum feed spigot at 90 degrees to the top two adjusters. NB!! Check the position of the small hole, top two studs and I rotated the diaphragm until the eyelet that connects to the clutch arm is parallel to the studs.
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e210/ctefeh/VWSERVO/Servomid.jpg~original)
Whilst somehow clamping the two halves together, slip the retainer/clamp over the two halves joining lip, being very careful of the diaphragm rubber. I worked the rod in/out a few times to centre the diaphragm better, and tried to make sure the two halves were in line. Pinched the two clamp ends, put the screw and nut in and did it up a tiny bit then tapped around the outside to seat it better. Then do it up, don't go nuts...
Et Voila...
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e210/ctefeh/VWSERVO/Servofinish.jpg~original)
I took mike's advice and painted a Rustbullet strip on one face. To test is easy. Pull the rod out, put finger over the vacuum feed spigot and try and push in, or do the reverse......this one flat out refused to budge so it's into the parts storage bin.....
Enjoy
Volkenstein
Great work Sean
I will probably need that info one day...
Lee
Lee,
No worries. Re-reading it, I think I'll tack on some more info about nut sizes, measured lengths and such in the posts.
Those crimped on rings on some we've seen? They are really rolled into the edges! I pulled one off a spare and it took some effort.
Regards
Sean
The spare servos i have all work so I haven't attempted to pull the clamp off..
Have you seen any clamps that are Undo-able ?
like the one in Your pics
Do You think rust would be a major problem
inside the servo?? maybe just in rusty conditions.... lol
cheers
LEE
I took apart my spare servo tonight after reading this (it had flakes of rust falling out of it, so I figured id check it out. The crimped on ring was corroded through in some spots, so I wouldnt have been able to save it anyways. Had to use a screwdriver to pry the edges of it up, but the rubber bladder inside is in perfect condition. Probably going to get all the rust off, paint it, and throw it in the parts bin as well! Thanks for the tips.
Brandon,
You've jogged my memory! I'll post up some other stuff to do with a servo rebuild. Just a question..I noticed on my spare that had the crimped on sealing ring that the adjuster was a different shape to the one I have pulled apart for this little missive. What shape is yours? I'll put up a comparison shot later...
Regards
SEan
All,
When I was out hunting around for the servo's last night I realised I had fogot to mention the large hose spigot on ^^ that servo. It was actually rotating around (my others don't do that).
To fix that I peined the inside rim of the fitting while supporting the tube against a flat steel surface (namely one edge of a workbench, they were put together using 50 x 50 (or 2" X 2") angle iron. Once it refused to move, the Rustbullet took care of sealing it up 100%.
The adjuster shaft on two of mine are straight hex pieces with the RH and LH threaded ends. My crimped on clamped one had a barrell shape shaft. When I was examining my Orange Bentley last night, I noticed the pics and cross section diag's were of the crimped type servo :o . Who'd a thunk it? Well, not me at least ;D .
Volkenstein
All
This write-up is very helpful, especially for someone like myself who is not familar with the autostick. I just purchased a 69 Ghia for my wife and will be doing some restoration on it.
Rebuilding the clutch servo is on my list of things to do. It is mentioned in one of the write-ups that the diaphragm is available for around $20. If someone has a source for it please let me know.
Thanks much for all the great info.
Legacy
Legacy,
Well, you'd best find some of the other posts ;D . Mike and I have been lamenting the absolutely skyrocketing price of the rebuild kits over the last two years. That being said, you can trawl www.thesamba.com classifieds section or a Craiglisting to see if anyone is offloading one cheap. BTW, before you hook in, make sure you don't have the crimped on ring but rather the ring as per the first post.
Micheal, hahamiki@hotmail.com (from Israel and he's on this forum) has repopped the bladder and says a truck air brake servo ring (from a Euro truck) can be used. If you have the ^^ non-crimped ring then see if you can score the bladder.
HTH
Volkenstein
great pics and info..
I just remembered that all My adjusters [3] are round tube with threads in the ends
not hexagon like yours...
that hexagon shape made Yours easy to undo...lol ;D :D
I wonder what you will pull apart next Sean??
Lee
Lee,
Trying to rescue a 34 Pict 3 from a frozen volume control screw (the small one). Thus far, a tungsten carbide 3mm end mill has been used in anger :o . A few other eye poppers on this carb too... After that? A total gearstick, bush, rod and coupling R & R. I am underwhelmed by the quality of parts on offer thus far :(. Mix 'n' match for sure.
Regards
Sean
Hi guys
I'm happy that my beetle is going extra well ...
and driving it every chance i get...
Ok- the white nylon bushing under the gearshifter base
that the rod goes thru.....
I have never done one or seen one in situ
although i have a couple as spares...
It has aways been My belief that they are cut thru so they can be placed
Over the shaft without having to take the shaft out...
then the ring keeps it together..
plus I thought I saw some originals in books years ago showing
No cut thru side... just a round plastic bush fitted in the factory...
so, has anyone ever seen a completly round bush in a car????
Lee
Quote from: volkenstein on 29 October 2008, 11:36
Legacy,
Well, you'd best find some of the other posts ;D . Mike and I have been lamenting the absolutely skyrocketing price of the rebuild kits over the last two years. That being said, you can trawl www.thesamba.com classifieds section or a Craiglisting to see if anyone is offloading one cheap. BTW, before you hook in, make sure you don't have the crimped on ring but rather the ring as per the first post.
Micheal, hahamiki@hotmail.com (from Israel and he's on this forum) has repopped the bladder and says a truck air brake servo ring (from a Euro truck) can be used. If you have the ^^ non-crimped ring then see if you can score the bladder.
HTH
Volkenstein
Hi Sean
I have the crimped on ring on mine I assume that if I want to refurbish one I have to find one with a removeable ring?
Steve
Steve,
No. Just buy the kit that has a removable ring and go for it. The price has dropped down to "reasonable levels" but I'm sure you can find one by shopping around.
To remove the crimped ring, I used a fine tooth mini hacksaw and a screwdriver to peel it up so I could get a pair of pliers on the strip and then just pulled straight up and peeled it off.
HTH
Sean