Hello, I am new here, and to VWs in general. Ive been looking into getting a VW bug with an autostick in it as a project. It has been sitting in a field for many years and will need a good deal of work, I know.
My questions are:
What is different about the AS bugs engine? I know the carb has an extra vacuum line, but is there anything else?
What would go bad on an AS thats been sitting? Ive heard about the servo, and the vacuum lines, but is there anything else I should look out for?
Is the connection between the engine and the trans make it any more difficult to pull the motor in and out?
Thanks
Chris
PS though Im new to VWs, my brother works on them, and has his own bay window bus. And his boss can fill in most of the blanks he leaves. But I figured Id ask you guys because my brother has never worked with an AS before, and his boss is the one selling the bug.
GCG,
Ahhhh. Some slightly different info posted here. I would be putting your brothers boss to "the 20 questions" for sure. To expand a little further on my answer on TheSamba..
1. A-S engined bugs have a double oil pump. Oil as per usual, but then a seperator plate and the ATF pump is slapped on that. 3 different Oil pump types were fitted over the years. 2 types on 1500/1600 engines and 1 for the 1600 twin ports. Unique apparatus. The intake manifold has a spigot to run manifold vacuum to the CV. The 1600 TP one is also the same as a Bay Bus (Type 2) that is fitted with a brake servo unit. Somewhat unique, easy to fab. Oh, and all the associated metal/hydraulic lines.
Tinware - rear (rear of car) engine tin has a hole drilled for the ATF Pump line that feeds the trans. Unique, but an easy drill or bypass jobbie.
Distributor - generally A-S advance curve specific but a good qual SVDA does the job just fine
Flexplate and gland nut. Fitted instead of a flywheel. The Gland nut is thinner and doesn't have a needle bearing. Unique. PITA to get off, but using the rope trick or Impact wrench does the job.
Engine/Trans bolts. - A-S donks don't have lower studs ala manuals.
That said, most of this is available (secondhand) with not too much effort. The OIL/ATF pump can be reco'd by you or exchange at EVWPARTS. <- These guys have a lot of A-S specific gear, more so than most.
2. You missed the clutch plate rust freezing.
3. A little. More fiddly. Hoses need to be disconnected and you have to manage the seperation differently due to the torque converter.
You can troll the forum at leisure and it'll give you a good idea about things A-S related.
Oh, tell us a little about said beastie...super? standard? engine? year?
Post up people ;D
Volkenstein
I started about a year ago into this hobby. In much the same way you are. I started surfing the net and eventially found a cheap car that hadn't run for a while. So far it's been fun and a good learning experience. What I will caution you on is this. If it's not running, be careful (standard or autostick). The car I bought has needed much more than I had originally planned. I thought a good tune up or even just a top end but once the engine was opened it became clear a complete rebuild was in order. Since the engine has been completed I've gotten into the brakes, front suspension, electrical, autostick, and next will be fuel lines and tank. Many of the later items won't be found until you inspect them as an owner. Oh and by the way you'll start to really question the thought process of some prior owners when you see their handy work
Overall not bad for a car that sat for almost 20 years. In the end it'll have cost me around $4,000 (including the original purchase) to have cool historic car that mechanically is in top shape.
Go into this with the idea that it is a project car (not cheap transportation) and you'll have fun with it.
Dave
PS The Autostick stuff is easy. The folks on this board can walk you through just about anything.