The moment is almost here!!! Ready to put my 71 SB Vert back together. I have a habit of using Locktite when ever I re-assemble things. Is it ok to use on the following parts: Engine to bellhousing bolts (4), tin screws, intake manifold bolts, and finally the torque convertor bolts. I read somewhere on this site that someone did not recommend locktite on the TC bolts? I thought that would be a must-considering their importance and vibration. For the past 9 months your site has helped me tremendousily with restoring GRETA. I promise some pixs very soon. Thanks
Rick
New Jersey
Rick,
I wouldn't bother to do any of them and in fact I haven't. The TC captive nuts aren't welded on there with any particular strength in mind. Use a high strength loctite and Lee can attest what fun you'll be in for if the captive nut breaks it weld. I'd rather TIG the captive nuts completely and rebalance the flexplate.
The tinware screws are grossly over torqued by every shadetree (we say backyardie) mechanic. You know that a simple wrist twist tighten on say a 12mm nut is roughly 25 ft/Lb's? I'd reckon most would get 10 on those shroud screws with a decent width screwdriver.
Now...Kopperkote and Zinckote are a different matter ;).
IMHO and 2 bob's worth from me
Sean
Hiya Rick,
X2 on what Sean offers.
I've never used Locktite on anything but my gland nut. All has been well with me.
If you are however, a compulsive Locktite user, limit yourself to green locktite. Don't even think about the red stuff.
Anyone ever notice how screws on a VW are hard to break loose? If the tin screws are in any way clean when they are installed they won't likely loosen on their own. The screws and matching nuts are made of dissimilar metals. Here's what happens. Mechanic tightens screws/bolts to manufacturer spec. Engine is started and ran, heating both pieces and a bond is formed between the two(some sort of molecular). The screw is no longer free to rattle in the nut and all is well. When removing said screw you will find it takes a lot of force to break the screw loose(kinda snaps loose) but after it is loose is unscrews easily. If you remove the screw and it loosens gradually the screw/nut combo had grease/oil in it when installed. Some aftermarket screws are not made of the same metal(or don't have the same coating) as the OG screws and those are the ones that can rattle out. Also screws/bolts that have been installed and removed multiple times with grit or dirt on them sometimes won't hold. I think the coating on the screw/bolt/nut must be thin. Bellhousing bolts are the same. Mercedes uses the same method to hold their bolts in. I've never found a lockwasher on a MB and very few on vw's. That is a lot to say that you don't need loctite on the screws, but if it makes you happy now(it most certainly won't when you go to disassemble) go for it! Good to hear you are getting it back together.