I have learned today that I need a new flexplate and 4 flexbolts for my auto stick. Does anyone have them for sale? I need something in excellent or new condition. My flexplate has stripped captive nuts. I am guessing that a used flexplate might be just another stripped out problem. Can anyone shed some light on the availability of a good plate and bolts?
Thank you, Ken
Ken,
The orginal 12 point type are hard to find. Cip1 sell hex head (6 point) replacements. The flexplates appear in TheSamba classifieds. A Timesert repair could be OK or a Helicoil *may* be OK for your existing one. I'd prefer the Timesert type myself.
Worst thing about second hand ones is that the pictures are small and low-res and hard to see if cowboys have been at work....
HTH
Volkenstein
Hiya Ken,
X2 on all that Sean had to offer..............and............I ran my AutoStick with Timeserts in the flexplate bolt holes. No problemo at all.
Problem solved!!!! To my surprise, House of Ghia had one flex plate in stock with new bolts. It is a used flexplate but I was assured that it is in excellent condition with perfect threaded holes and no issues.
Hopefully when it arrives, it will live up to their description.
Thanks to all that replied, Ken
Quote from: autonewbie on 09 October 2009, 01:05
I have learned today that I need a new flexplate and 4 flexbolts for my auto stick. Does anyone have them for sale? I need something in excellent or new condition. My flexplate has stripped captive nuts. I am guessing that a used flexplate might be just another stripped out problem. Can anyone shed some light on the availability of a good plate and bolts?
Thank you, Ken
that seems odd to Me Ken..
I haven't stripped any captive nuts..
but one did come loose as I used loctite on the bolts once...
You could fix Yours by having New nuts brazed into place
then having the flexplate balanced...
Maybe You could even have new nuts welded into place...
so long as the plate is balanced OK....
many of the flexplates are badly damaged when being taken off the engine..
they are very easily to warp/twist etc...
and they need to be in perfect balance...
I even used hexagon head and allen key headed bolts with success...
I had to grind a socket to fit onto the hex head bolts...
so long as they are the correct length....
no longer..
cheers
LEE
Quote from: autonewbie on 09 October 2009, 02:40
Problem solved!!!! To my surprise, House of Ghia had one flex plate in stock with new bolts. It is a used flexplate but I was assured that it is in excellent condition with perfect threaded holes and no issues.
Hopefully when it arrives, it will live up to their description.
Thanks to all that replied,
Ken
Great News Ken
remember don't throw the old one away...
I have a spare plus the one with the loose nut...
the bolts have a coarse thread so it isn't easy to strip them...
they also don't need to be over tightened... lol
If one comes loose... You will hear it... bang bang bang...
are you also replacing the torque converter seal??
I would if I were You... as You don't want a leak in the future...
either of the seals fit... CIP1 evw etc all carry the torque converter seal...
cheers
LEE
[/color]
Thanks everyone for your input. Yes the seals have been replaced. My old flexplate is being taken to a machine shop this morning and being retapped the next size bolt. I plan to keep it, or the one I just bought, as a spare. Depending which one arrives here first will determine which plate gets installed.
My neighbor that lives 2 houses away, is a retired VW mechanic. (How convenient is that!!) He is doing the work for me and he is very firm on doing things as near to new as possible. It was his idea to retap the captive nuts the next larger size and then he wants to use Allen head bolts. I suspect whichever flexplate gets installed, it will work as well as new.
So far we have removed the engine, replaced the heads, installed new main seals, new pushrods and seals, new rings, new doghouse oil cooler, new German tin, converted from single port to dual port, replaced the gen with an alternator, new alt stand, new fuel pump, all new hoses, new bushings, new ball joints and tie rod ends, removed the front beam and replaced it with a good German beam, removed the gas tank and installed a gasket between the tank and the body, adjusted everything, and countless other things have been done.
The amazing thing is that he removed the engine only for a leaking main seal. While checking compression he found an insert where the spark plug threads should be. Not liking what he found, that resulted in a new head. The head change uncovered a small crack between the cylinders. So he removed the other head and found that one cracked too. So both were replaced. and one thing led to another, to another, etc.
This is on a car that I drove 1210 miles to get it here after I bought it. I figured all was cool. He managed to find these issues and fix each and every one. This neighbor is just amazing and he won't take a dime from me. What he doesn't know is that I have special plans that hopefully will in some small way show him my gratitude.
Hi Ken
Get Your neighbour to move to Australia...
I could do with a neighbour like that...
LEE ;D ;D ;D ;D
[/glow]
Update: The flexplate has been repaired. The machinist decided to drill out and insert helicoil inserts into the captive nuts. Not sure why that was done but something about "clearance" was mentioned. Later today we will be reinstalling the engine. Please keep your fingers crossed.
Quote from: autonewbie on 10 October 2009, 18:48
Update: The flexplate has been repaired. The machinist decided to drill out and insert helicoil inserts into the captive nuts. Not sure why that was done but something about "clearance" was mentioned. Later today we will be reinstalling the engine. Please keep your fingers crossed.
Hi Ken
I thought they may be the problem...
as there isn't enough room to do much with those nuts and bolts..
I fitted bolts I had made up that were about 1/4 inch longer..
and when i started the engine... bang bang bang bang
as they hit the bell housing... You will also notice the captive nuts are VERY thin too...
it seems the special bolts never normally come loose...
if they do You will hear the telltale noise.... lol
I have used hex headed bolts [done up with modified sockets][grind grind]
allen key headed stainless steel bolts
and high tensile steel allen key headed bolts..
all cut to the correct length...
the heads of My original bolts were worn away by bad use of spanners..??
I did find 4 new ones but at $15 each plus postage I declined... lol
cheers
Lee in Australia
[/b]
Final flexplate update:
Engine is installed and the car has been taken on a test drive. All went well with no flexplate issues. Car runs great and shifts great.
Sadly the drivers side of the car is one inch lower than the passenger side so more height adjusting is necessary. I am going against the trend and making my Ghia stock height or a bit higher. Yea i'm an old fart and I like i that way. ;D
Quote from: autonewbie on 12 October 2009, 04:31
Final flexplate update:
Engine is installed and the car has been taken on a test drive. All went well with no flexplate issues. Car runs great and shifts great.
Sadly the drivers side of the car is one inch lower than the passenger side so more height adjusting is necessary. I am going against the trend and making my Ghia stock height or a bit higher. Yea i'm an old fart and I like i that way. ;D
Hopefully that can be done easily by adjusting the torsion leaves at front and torsion bars at rear..
the 68 >beetles had softer rear torsion bars and many people adjust them as they sag a bit...
Ghias do look OK at the correct height... I believe beetles should be dropped about 1 1/2 to 2 inches at the front..
so long as you can turn the wheels without rubbing... You don't need hassles like that.. lol
I wonder if someone has fiddled before???
Good to see you can finally drive that Volkswagen Karmann made Ghia...
cheers
Lee
[/color]
Just check those darn flexplate bolts! Mine all came loose and I never heard a thing. The car stopped moving out in the boondocks one day and the engine was still running fine! The bolts cut some interesting grooves in the bell housing as they worked their way out! I got a new (used) plate from my local foreign car repair shop and had no problems since. The mech recommended I use blue loctite, I've had the engine out since and no trouble. It does take years off my life re-installing those 4 little bolts, tho. What if I drop one in the trans housing!!!!! :P
Hi John
when My bolts came loose they made quite a racket
as they hit the bell housing...
and after one of the captive nuts coming loose after using LOCTITE [high strength]
probably should be using low strength on everything.. lol
I just wonder why Your bolts came loose//
LEE
I tightened them down too gently. I wasn't thinking. They were just snugged down.
Hi John
they have a coarse thread so they can't be stripped easily and because the head is so small
usually a 1/4 or 3/8 drive socket is used...
but I always do them up as tight as I can.. without using large tools..
it looks like they designed the flexplate to go inside the bell housing etc..
then had to make up special bolts to bolt it together.... lol
cheers
LEE