Hello all!
I took apart the 2 tranny's I have. One is the late 1970 4.125:1 R&P that is going into my bug, the other a 1969 4.375:1 R&P parts tranny I picked up at a swap meet for $25.
I was going to take the best clutch parts from the 2 to make 1 good one.
Both clutch drive plate seals are hard as a rock and are showing signs of leaking. I looked though the parts source thread to no avail. Anyone know where I can find one or more of these little buggers? I definitely don't want to reassemble the late tranny with a leaking seal. Clutch parts are EXPENSIVE!!!
Let me know what you find!
I just found this link. Is this the seal I am looking for: Input shaft seal, fits all Auto-Stick? There is no picture only an description.
http://www.evwparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=001311113&Category_Code=AutostickTrans
Thoughts?
Hmm,
Which seal exactly? There is one between the carrier plate and support tube, one in the carrier plate that the trans input shaft goes into and lastly the seal that fit's into the gearbox to seal the input shaft?
Regards
Sean
I was mostly referring to the one on the clutch drive-plate (bellhousing) that seals the ATF from the clutch area. I think that is the one between the carrier plate and support tube, am I correct? That would be component #4 in the exploded view of "clutch components" on the home page technical area of the site.
I wouldn't mind finding a source for the other 2 you mentioned, you know, just to have. The drive-plate seal in the bellhousing is the one I am mostly concerned about.
Thanks!
Hi SingleCab
Do you mean the turbine shaft seal? If you have the orange Bentley manual and look on page 16 Fig 8-2 theres
an exploded view (its number 10). I had problems with my TC leaking into the clutch bell housing area and I couldnt
find this seal anywhere despite searching for ages, please let me know if you come across anything.
I think this is a picture of the seal in question may be wrong though its been a while since I looked at it
(http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm72/Airkewld_2008/Picture039-2.jpg)
(http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm72/Airkewld_2008/Picture031-1.jpg)
I can get you the part number if it is and you can ask evw if its the correct one.
Airhead
Ah yes...,
That one :-\! Subject of more than a few posts....Try all the known usual suspects is about the best (for an original one) you can do. There is a difference between the ones you'll get at a seal supply house and a genuine VW one.
So it's a 24 X 37 X 7, but to put it's "offset" correct compared to VW try and get a twin lipped (TC) seal. Or...machine up an aluminium ring 37 OD, 36 ID and grab a SIMRIT BABSL seal. One of our UK brethren did this as he couldn't get a VW replacement.
Lastly, you will (or have already) more than likely hurt the 6004 C3 (Close Tolerance) bearing. Get a new one of reputable quality. IE FAG or SKF or RHP or Hoffman. Like a Brit bike afficianado..steer well clear of anything made in Portugal etc etc.
Enjoy
Sean
All,
Just FYI, Simrit market seals under Freudenberg-NOK tade name. I am wading (drowning :P) through their humongous catalog....
Regards
Sean
Sounds like I'm kinda S.O.L. huh guys!
Yes the turbine shaft seal is the one I need. I will attempt to find one, but a P/N would be helpful. If not, I will use the old one if I have to. It is seeping now, I just want to replace it before it gets to the leaking stage, if you know what I mean!
Thanks everyone!
Quote from: singlecab61 on 21 October 2009, 16:31
Sounds like I'm kinda S.O.L. huh guys!
Yes the turbine shaft seal is the one I need. I will attempt to find one, but a P/N would be helpful. If not, I will use the old one if I have to. It is seeping now, I just want to replace it before it gets to the leaking stage, if you know what I mean!
Thanks everyone!
Hi
Maybe they are all seeping nowadays...
One of My spare gearboxes has 3 x 3/8 holes drilled in the bottom..
maybe to save the clutch plate from contamination...
sounds good to me.... lol
best of luck
LEE
Simple yet genius! I think I may just do a little drilling if I can't turn up something in the next week or so.
SingleCab,
This is the discussion we had with 1302LS/Crasher:
http://vwar.org/old_forum/index.php?topic=434.0
I got it a little wrong, his idea was to sleeve the shaft, not the bore. Steve (crasher) may have a seal or two lying around, albeit Simrit. He's given the correct part No in the post as he has a 1983 copy of EKTA Microfiche.
I'll dig up his email address from wherever it is...
Regards
Sean
Hi Singlecab, You may want to try an old trick if your seal is still fairly good. If you can get to the side of the seal with the spring, clean the seal thoroughly and fill the grooved area that holds the spring with RTV sealer. Let it cure and then assemble the parts. The RTV is flexible but will hold a little more tension on the shaft/ seal mating point. It sounds right up there with comet down the carb for resealing rings but it works just the same.
Well I think I will do something similar and cut off a 1.5mm section of the seal garter spring and reinstall it. This will also add to the seals tension. I do this with all the crappy single lip rear main seals that are out there nowadays!
Thanks for mentioning the seal spring! The shortened spring trick I use totally slipped my mind!!!