Hello all and many thanks to Mike (Bookwus) and Bjorn (Vwar) for the help in getting registered here.
I have a 1970 Karmann Ghia that is new to us, just bought it this summer. It was an out-of-province car and wasn't insured, but it purred like a kitten on the trailer it was sitting on. Well of course I didn't have time to do a full run-down check or even a compression check on her as it was leaving the province the next Monday. I had to make a decision, and, long story short, bought her, brought her home and found that she shifted really hard, stuck in gear and a host of other minor problems. I know quite a bit about Vdubs as my son and I have a 1964 Transporter Kombi, and he had a 72 Super Beetle up until this summer, but of Autosticks, I know absolutely nothing about. I was actually surprised when the guy told me the KG was auto. After a visit to my local shop guys, we find that #3 cyl is only pushing about 25psi and vacuum is very low. Gonna have to rebuild the engine. At this point, I've spent quite a few hours trying to find information on the net about the Autostick and there's not much out there and so I was on the fence on whether or not to slap a manny into her and pull out the AS. I actually had one lined up for $100. Then I found this place.
I gotta say, there is a wealth of information here on the AS and its all just what I've been looking for in the way of whats what and how to on the tranny side of things. I'm going to rebuild her to original and actually looking forward to the project now. I feel much better that this will be a successful project.
I'll post pictures as I go along. I have the engine out and torn apart already. No. 3 cylinder had a big hole in it and yes, it burned the head out a bit too. Enough to warrent replacement. I havn't cleaned up the block yet to check for cracks, but on first examination, it looks good. Crank and cam look in good shape and so I think I will re-use them. The transmission will be coming out this weekend and then I will spend some quality time 'parts cleaning'. (oh joy)
Anyway, Greetings to all and hope to be able to provide some good "dos" and "don'ts" for everybody to sound on and for everybody else (including me) to learn on.
First up is a pic of the KG and then a couple of pics of the electrical box thats under the rear seat. Can anybody tell me what this is for? I can't find it on any wiring diagrams and I've thought it had something to do with the AS tranny. The big wire is like a spark plug wire and has been cut off. I can't find the opposite end to it and don't know when it might have been cut.
Looking forward to a good forum.
Cheers, Sid
Mmmm,
More Ghia pRon...love it. Welcome to the lunatic fringe! Looking at a '70 KG wiring diag, I have no clue what that box is for...too many wires for it to be a rear window defogger relay. I reckon you'll be tracing the wires to find out what it is....
Regards
Volkenstein
Hiya Sid,
Ditto what Sean offered and....................
The only other OEM electrical "box" under the rear seat would be the voltage regulator (at least that's the case in a Bug). So, if it's not the rear window defroster relay or the voltage regulator, it's a mystery box! Yep, pictures would help indeed!
Thanks guys. Ya, I've been through the wiring diagrams and through the Bently and still have come up empty. I guess its down to trying to trace the wiring. I'll have to recruit my daughter to help me 'cause thats a two person job. The box really looks OEM, but then, the car is 30 years old. It was originally sold in Edmonton, Alberta and had a few 'extras' like an electric oil heater so that might have something to do with it too. I think it even has a VW part number on it, but can't remember. I'll look when I get back home.
I've haven't got the transmission out yet, ran into problems getting the CV's off. A few of the 12 point hex head socket cap bolts were in soo tight, they stripped out. Finally had to pull out the trusty zip cutter and cut the heads off. After I got the CV's out, I was called out to work and right now I'm away from home, so not much is happening.
I did get to buy a really good ATV jack that will work nicely to lower the tranny out and from under the car. $69 at Princess Auto. Even if I only use it once, its worth it.
Doing all the work outside will slow things down a bit too, temperature is dropping nicely now.
Anyway I'll keep you all posted.
A little off the Transmission topic here, but I thought I would share a little trick I learned on pressing out the wrist pins. I use a 6" C-clamp, a small socket and a large socket. The small socket should be about the same diameter as the pin, but smaller than the hole and the large socket should be large enough to allow the pin to escape. It takes a little dexterity to be able to do this by yourself, but with a little patience, it is possible. A third hand is useful though.
On pins that are tough all the way out, I use a deep-socket. This saves on pounding on the cylinders and con-rods.
Cheers, Sid
Quote from: Sidco7 on 28 November 2009, 07:07
First up is a pic of the KG and then a couple of pics of the electrical box thats under the rear seat. Can anybody tell me what this is for? I can't find it on any wiring diagrams and I've thought it had something to do with the AS tranny. The big wire is like a spark plug wire and has been cut off. I can't find the opposite end to it and don't know when it might have been cut.
I am wondering if the Big sparky thing is an ignitor for a Gas Heater. I live in the always green south so I do not know this to be true, but that is the only sparkplug that sits off the engine. Perhaps this is the ignitor for the spark plug that goes with the system?
Just a thought....
KC ;D
Well, I've been wondering that myself. There is a gas heater under the trunk that I've not tested. The fan works on it, but there hasn't been any kind of ignition. I don't know too much about them and have had other pressing issues to deal with. What you say makes sense though, and when I get home this weekend, hopefully I will spend a few moments tracing the wiring. If this is true, it makes sense that there is no ignition with the heater because the large wire was cut off. But why would the sparky box be located all the way in the back under the rear seat, when all the business is up front? VW boys confuse the hell out of me sometimes.
Sid & KC,
I think KC's on a winner! In this great sunburnt (scorched more like it >:() country eberspacher's are extremely rare...
Sid, when you have time : http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=314546&highlight=eberspacher
I think this'll be a good guide for you....
Regards
Volkenstein
Great thread over at the Samba, thanks for that. Clears up the 'Mystery sparky box thingy'
Now that we have that solved, I will deal with the heater at a different time and place and we'll keep this thread on the topic of the AS transmission rebuild.
Thanks again for the heater thread.
Here is the engine out and I'm home now, so back to the task of pulling the transmission.
Cheers, Sid
Well, finally got the transmission out. Some clearance issues with the clutch servo pod and the firewall. Lots of wiggling around and it finally came. Worried about when I go to put it back in will most likely have the same problems.
Has anybody got any tricks on getting the transmission in after it's got a nice coat of paint and stuff without scratching the crap out of the servo?
Now comes the part of the project I don't really care for and thats parts washing and clean-up. Has to be done though, so onward I guess.
Cheers. Sid
Hiya Sid,
Install the transmission without the servo in place. Once the tranny is in place then install the clutch servo. Yes, it does help to be a contortionist. And welcome to the wonderful world of AutoStickin'. ;)
Sid,
Buy a packet of icecream sticks! Handy to have along with a piece or two of sharp edged buttery soft aluminium. Prop the trans up on a pair of bricks or whatever so you can clean the muck up as it falls to the ground.
Regards
Sean
Quote from: volkenstein on 21 December 2009, 12:47 Buy a packet of icecream sticks!
Good idea.
I also have some good nylon scrapers that I stole from the kitchen :)
(she wont miss them)
Cheers, Sid
Hiya Sid,
Quote from: Sidco7 on 22 December 2009, 21:37
......(she wont miss them)......
Enjoy living dangerously, do you?
Transmission is out and somewhat pulled apart. I've lined up a shop to do the parts cleaning for me. They have a good sized solvent tank and can do a really good job for me. Hopefully won't be too much, but hey I figure my time is worth something too huh? :)
The servo is the crimped band style and hopefully doesn't give me too much trouble to get it off. Anybody got any tricks to take it off?
Cheers, Sid
(Ya Bookwus, its the old shoulder shrug and I ain't seen it routine.) The deer in the headlights look helps too...
Hiya Sid,
Quote from: Sidco7 on 13 January 2010, 06:08 ........ I've lined up a shop to do the parts cleaning for me.....
While I do my own parts cleaning, I can certainly appreciate your choice. Cleaning the parts has to be the worst part of doing any sort of rebuild.
Ya, I've got a small (5gal) parts cleaner for the little stuff. Too small to fit an engine half or a transmission into. I've just got too many things on the go right now and its a logical choice. I'm going to load it all up and take the whole works over to them. Big worry now is making sure they don't lose anything. lol.
Have you ever taken off one of those crimped bands off of the servo before? I'm a little apprehensive on cutting that thing off. I know I can get a replacement, but how careful do I have to be? I would hate to ruin the pod itself.
Cheers, Sid
Hiya Sid,
In rebuilding servos for a local repair shop I have done a few of those OEM attachment bands.
If you look round the circumference you'll find a gap (a couple of millimeters usually) in the band. At this point you can force a suitable sized flat bladed screwdriver under one strap end. Before I do this I work out the edge of the band (where it's pressed under the servo-half lips) with a small 90 degree punch tool. With those edges forced away from the servo lip you can start forcing the screwdriver under the band as above. From that point it's just a matter of continuing to pry up the band. Dont worry about the servo body - it's much thicker than the band. Just make sure that your screwdriver blade is about as wide as the band.
Thanks Mike.
I had thought the band was welded, it was full of rust and crap, but your post made me have a closer look at it. I took a wire brush to it and sure enough, there is a gap where I can get something in to work it up. I'm going to start the edges up first and then work the band straight off the rim.
Cheers, Sid
Sid,
Levering it up at the join, small hacksaw cut (from a small hacksaw) and ripping it off with a pair of pliers is good too ;D. And you certainly can't re-use the crimped on band!
Regards
Sean
Quote....And you certainly can't re-use the crimped on band!...
Yes, I can get a new band and diaphram out of CIP1.ca for $26.39
VWC-113-142-055-RK - AUTOSTICK CLUTCH SERVO REPAIR KIT - BEETLE/GHIA 68-74
I was more afraid of cutting into the band and damaging the servo body.
Well, Got the parts back from the washer and I am really pleased with the results. The engine block and the transmission are squeeky clean. All the tin, doghouse and other parts need a quick brushover with a wire brush and they are ready for paint. I gotta say that I would do it this way again no question. The guy had a big "Snap-On" heated parts washer which sprayed hi-temp water-based solvent at the parts which turned on a turn table. Everything was cleaned perfectly. The guy did do some pre-scraping and got a coffee can of crap off before he put the parts in the washer (my bad). He only charged me $220 for the entire lot. Well worth my time.
I am going to take apart the transmission and rinse out the guts with an oil based solvent just to be sure there is no residue that might have leaked inside during the wash. Other than that, the transmission just needs a coat of paint and she's done.
The engine will start going together soon too. New parts coming from CIP soon.
Cheers, Sid
Servo Rebuild.
Well I opened up the servo tonight and thanks for the tips. It opened like a can of sardines. Just started it with a screw driver and then started rolling it back with a pair of vice grips and the band rolled off really easy.
Once open, I inspected all the parts and just as I had thought, the rubber diaphram was old and cracked. Definately needs replacement.
I'll wire brush things up good and paint them up. Will look brand new.
Cheers, Sid
Couple more shots of the servo.
Forum doesn't allow very many pictures per post.
Cheers, Sid
Sid,
Damn dusty wherever that's been! The two I've ripped apart have been nowhere near caked like that is!
Enjoy
Sean
Well,
Finally got all the new parts for the engine rebuild and will be starting on that shortly. Painting old tin and what not too.
Question:
Does anybody know what this puppy is for??
It's the pump that was located 'piggy-back' on the top of the transmission and I believe it is the vacuum pump, but I can't find it in the Bentley manual anywhere. I've taken it apart and cleaned it up. It's a sliding vane type pump but I can't seem to remember where the lines go. Pretty sure it provides the vacuum for the system, but can someone confirm that for me?
Thanks, Sid
Hiya Sid,
For some strange and unfathomable reason I am not picking up any of your pictures in this thread. Not even any indication that there is supposed to be a picture there (other than the references in your text). Dunno what's going on but I'm out in the dark.
That is weird. The pictures show that they have been viewed. Wonder if anybody else cant see them either. I know that I can only post three small pictures. The forum won't let me post anything more or of any substantial size.
I've seen other people's posts with huge pictures, but mine are limited to mere postage stamp size.
Sid
Sid,
I see your pictures fine. Everything looks great, but I've never seen that pump before. I doubt that it's original but can't rule that out. Are you in the US or elsewhere?
Dave
Hiya Sid,
I'm going to forward this little picture problem I seem to have on to Bjorn and see if he can make any sense of it
Bookwus - What browser are you using? That might have something to do with it. (thinking out loud)
Hercdriver - Actually I'm in Canada, just North of Bookwus (see member map)
The pump really looks original and has VW markings on the inside. The car was sold new (1970) in Edmonton, Alberta and so may have had some 'cold weather' extras added on.
I'm looking at the vacuum diagram and it looks like the entire vacuum system is operated from the intake manifold. This pump rides on top of the transmission and has (obviously) an inlet and an outlet. I will have to climb back under the car and see if I can trace the lines. (Still cold outside and so I was kind of putting this off) lol.
Cheers, Sid
OK,
Under the rear deck, above the transmission is this huge - what looks to be like a heat exchanger, mounted to the underside of the frame. It has piping (which looks like they were long since ripped off) and hoses and wires etc. Haven't a clue what it's for.
I think I will just rip it all out of there if it isn't necessary for the operation of the AS system.
Cheers, Sid
(Bookwus - there should be three pictures attached :)
Hiya Sid,
I had this brainstorm that if I tried using the computer downstairs instead of my laptop I might be able to get access to the pictures. I was thinking that perhaps I had a firewall or virus protection installed on the laptop that was preventing the pictures from coming through. But no dice on the downstairs computer either.
Our ISP is Qwest and I'm using IE7 as a browser on both machines. It's gotta be something common to both machines so I'm guessing the problem lies in one of those areas.
Funny thing is that I can see practically all pictures that have been posted in other threads Sid...........except for your postings on this thread and another other thread (I think Kimbill posted those). Very strange! Especially when others can see your pictures!
Hey........enough of my problems........on with your thread!
Finished rebuilding the Servo. Looks a lot better than it did thats for sure.
New rubber diaphram and steel ring.
Quote from: Sidco7 on 13 March 2010, 22:40
Under the rear deck, above the transmission is this huge - what looks to be like a heat exchanger, mounted to the underside of the frame. It has piping (which looks like they were long since ripped off) and hoses and wires etc. Haven't a clue what it's for.
Hi Sid,
That's new to me and looks like some kind of heater. I went snooping around on TS and couldn't find another. What I did notice, is that it looks much like the Eberspracher BN6 heater used on late type II buses. The BN6 lookss larger but has the same duct configuration. The final clue would be a fuel line to support its combustion.
For a list of autostick diagrams, try........
http://www.oldbeetle.com/pcat/epc.html
look at #25 for vacuum related items
Dave
Hiya Sid,
Just a heads up here.......................
Did you mark both halves of the servo can in order to reassemble it correctly? If you did not it's likely that the 12 mm vacuum port will be aligned improperly. When the servo is in place the vacuum port wants to be pointing toward the driver (left hand) side of the car. That makes it easy to hook up the incoming vacuum hose from the control valve.
And to add to what Dave mentioned about the possibility of as gas fired heater (since I'm still "blind").................. these little numbers were found much more in Canadian cars than in USA cars and Eberspracher did make a BN-4 also. These heaters usually did have an ID plate on them and there would also be plumbing involved for a gas supply line and hot air venting. If indeed you do have a BN-4, treasure it. These little guys can get spendy and there are folks out there who do nothing but rebuild these devices.
Thanks Dave for the diagrams - great site. I will have a closer look at this thing today. Should be nice outside.
And thanks Mike for the 'heads up'. I didn't mark the can halves, but took lots of pictures before I took it apart. I will have to loosen the ring and turn the halves to align properly. Nice catch.
I think I found a picture of your heater.
(http://i765.photobucket.com/albums/xx295/4fantrashcan/heater.png)
If you want I have a copy of the manual that I could email you.
Dave thats it! and I would love a manual. I will PM you and give you my email address. Cool.
Further on the engine rebuild. The wife and daughter left on a dance festival leaving me in charge of the house for a whole week, so I thought it would be a great time to heat shrink the new cam gear on the crankshaft. A simple operation, but needing to take over the kitchen to heat the oil would have to be done on the sly.
Note to self: don't forget the spacer! Doh!
What was supposed to be a simple 30 +/- minute operation took most of the evening and I burned the Lasagne while I was scrambling around with pullers and rags and hot oil. Lots of fun. Good thing I was alone in the house but I think the neighbours were wondering what the cussing was about.
Oh well, its on there along with the distributor gear and the SPACER.
Don't forget the spacer.
Cheers, Sid
Dave, This also solves the 'mystery box' that was posted at the beginning of my thread. The 'spark plug' wire or ignition wire leads out and under the back seat to the relay box.
Good stuff.
Cheers, Sid
Namplate doesn't say Eberspracher, but it definitely is a heater.
Cheers, Sid
You're right. It's not an eberspracher. It's a Webasto.
Here's a manual in German that you may find helpful.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/wabastoheater.php
The picture I posted earlier came out of a service manual for VW heaters. Unfortunately it's incomplete. It's not listed as such, but I believe that maybe the same beast you have. The manual only references Eberspracher, but it looks nothing like a BN2, BN4, or BN6. It also shows it in a type IV vehicle.
Yup. I'm yanking that thing out. along with all the extra paraphenalia that goes along with it. This is the Okanagan after all, almost California weather anyway. lol.
How tight is tight??
OK - I've got the engine back to the button up stage and I'm torquing the case nuts and the main journal nuts and while I do this, I always check the rotation of the crank. I tighten a couple of nuts to the specified torque rating and then turn the crank a couple of turns. Each progressive nut I torque, the crank gets harder and harder to turn. When I have all nuts torqued up, the crank is nearly siezed where it's very difficult to turn.
I checked the main bearing journal clearance with plastigauge and the clearance was within tolerance (0.003").
So - how tight is too tight when it comes to turning the crank after everything is all torqued up?
Post script:
Ya, never mind above. Me being the dumbass that I am, allowed the rear bearing to slip just a bit and didn't notice. Result - new rear main bearing.
Oh well, "and this too, shall pass"