No Shifting possible for the first few minutes the car runs?

[sb001]

Hi guys,
I am a newbie here to the site, was led here by a couple of threads I was looking at over at samba. I have a 69 autostick bug and am having the same typical grinding issue going into reverse as a couple of other members have posted on here (haven't noticed anything strange going into low) but along with another problem.
A couple weeks ago I got my car back from having the tranny swapped. The original tranny in the car (yes it was still the original!) had been having an issue for some time of popping out of drive 1 back into neutral every time I tried to shift into it. I had gotten around it by driving around in drive 2 for quite a while, but finally tracked down a good used autostick tranny and took the car in to have them swapped.
The new tranny seemed to be fine for the first few days I had it back, but since then, whenever I go to start the car with the engine cold, I absolutely cannot shift into ANY gear until the car warms up! If I let it idle a few minutes, suddenly I have zero problem shifting into gear! (Except I get the "crunching" going into reverse like others.) Any ideas what this might be? My first thought is that it is vacuum related, like the control valve won't operate until the car has been running long enough to build up the correct pressure? Or could it be clutch related, and for some reason the crank is turning too slow at first for the clutch and gears to mesh? Any help would be appreciated! Thank you guys!

[68autobug]

Hi
first one.. Crunching into reverse is usually caused by the clutch plate clearance being too small

so, You just need to adjust the clutch servo adjuster about 1/2 a turn...[ adjuster is located above LHS rear axle]

You need to loosen the locknut while holding the adjuster piece with a spanner [2 spanners needed]

its a left hand thread so push the spanner on the nut upwards about 1/2 a turn, [clockwise]
then screw the adjuster piece also clockwise until it touches the locknut.. lock the adjuster against the locknut using two spanners..                 I believe the spanners are 13mm

Now You can try out Your reverse,,,  If it still crunches going into reverse...
just slide it into reverse slowly....  or You can do another 1/2 a turn...
When My reverse used to crunch every time I did it, My Wife NEVER ever crunched reverse...lol

there is a nylon bush that the gear shifter shaft slides on inside the tunnel...
If that bush is worn out then this can cause problems with reverse..
Make Sure You NEED to Push the gearshifter DOWN to select Reverse...
If You don't.. this means the nylon bush [under $10] needs replacing...

with Your idle problem....
When You turn the ignition key on, You should be able to change gears at least 4 times [ You can hear the servo working]
with the vacuum left in the vacuum tank...  [engine NOT going] it sounds like You have a vacuum hose leak
its best to replace ALL the vacuum hoses ... before looking for any other problems..
the old vacuum hoses are now very old and have cracked...  so after replacing all those...

I use a red colored truck air hose12.7mm id..  made in USA POWAFLEX MULTIPURPOSE
the original type of hose [cotton covered-steel reinforced] is BELMETRIX brand sold in the USA

You can also buy it from Your local MERCEDES BENZ Dealer in the USA...

You cannot use heater hose or cheaper soft walled hoses as the vacuum will suck them in..
I did use some good quality 13mm oil hose for a few years...  without any problems..

cheers
Lee in Australia
[/glow]

[sb001]

Thanks for the advice,
I did try adjusting the clutch adjuster a bit and it seemed to help, still crunches the first time I put it in reverse (in the morning) but every time after that it seemed to be OK. Like for it to not do it at all but not sure if I want to mess with it anymore.
The problem with going into gear in the morning seems to be directly related to the speed of the engine- when i start the car in the morning, it seems to under-rev and shake a bit until it warms up and settles down (actually seems to speed up in revs after it settles down.) What I found out is that if I rev the engine while it is still cold and under-revving, I have no problem going into gear. So now I have to try to figure out why it is under-revving until it warms up (I thought engines were supposed to OVER-rev and then settle down.) I have heard theories about adjusting the carburetor and tried messing with the air bypass screw a bit, but it didn't seem to help.

[68autobug]

Hi
The automatic choke control should rev the engine when You start up..
You need to depress the pedal to the floor once, then start engine, auto choke should be working..

if Not.. its the three small screws in the round piece on the RHS of the carby..
just loosen the screws, so You can move the auto choke piece [it has a wire going to it]
and You will see three small marks on the rim at the top..

so, You turn the inner bit between these marks..
Do this with the car cold...  ignition turned off.. the auto choke has a heater element in it which heats up when You turn the ignition ON..

Easiest way.. is to take the air filter off the carburetor... 
and look down the throat of the carby.. press accelerator once to the floor..
the choke flap will be across the carby throat..   move the choke unit so the flap opens slightly
tighten one screw so the unit won't move..
and go and start the engine .. If it won't start open the choke flap up slightly more [after loosening the screw]
if its not revving enough, You can close the choke flap up more...

Now... the problem with all this... is that when the ambient temperature is Very cold compared with today..
the choke will close tight...  Hopefully the engine will still start and rev... OK..
when its hotter, the choke won't close as much...
I used to adjust My carby all the time when I had a Solex carby with auto choke in the 70s.. lol

If You need any more assistance..  just ask...
I will also take some photos... of the choke unit and the flap etc..

the auto choke was designed by VW, so, You went outside and got into Your VW and pushed the accelerator to the floor once... [auto choke goes on] and start the engine... select Gear and drive away....
back in the 50s and early 60s in some cars You had to warm the engine first [especially in V Cold climates]
before being able to drive away... 

cheers

Lee in Australia

[martoke]

hi read the above have had similer probs and seems quite common  i have a 71 1600 semi auto beetle and find in the morning first thing i can get into reverse, then drive and then it goes through all gears but will not go into reveres grinds and cruntches have adjusted and adjusted neighbours are fed up with the grinding sounds .


i have had teh gear stick apart run a new lead clean the contacts and can hear the control valve and actuator working, have checked all hoses and changed teh transmission oil, cleaned the air intake filter on the control valve, and adjusted the clarance on the servo arm, but still have the same problem, starts fine  you can go into reverse staright of and drive of in first goes in secon and low gear but it just grinds thereafter into reverse, if i then leave it enhgine off again say for 15 minutes it will go intio revers, someone mentioned that the oil is much thicker when cold which may effect it as when the engines been running a bit the oil heats up, tried the trick of breaking the clutch through reving and breaking no joy,
also want to know if any one know the correct setting for the control valve screw if you screw it all teh way in how far should come out how many turns.
any help prior to to pulling the engine out and checking the clutch would be a help

cheers mart

[68autobug]

Hi
I am having big problems getting on here and staying on here..lol 
I just answered Your post... very long answer... and it was deleted as I went to Post it...

I believe its still the clutch needs adjusting.  Once You can get into reverse, without crunching the other gears will be OK..
REVERSE is the hard one..  try adjusting the clutch arm/servo adjuster again.. undo the nut 1/4 turn , then screw the adjuster until it touches the nut.. then tighten the nut.. if it still crunches do another 1/4 turn..
and the reason You cannot get out of reverse... is because the clutch is still engaged.. still touching..
I wouldn't bother about the oil... its a normal VW gearbox with the Differential inside it an it needs HYPOID oil..
You can change to Synthetic Hypoid oil 75w/90 Castrol syntrax is what I have in My gearbox.. its gets to below 0C here
or change to 75w90 normal Hypoid Oil.. instead of 90 grade..
I've never had any shifting problems after adjusting everything - clutch-servo-gearshifter- and connecting the hose to the correct carby port..
If the gap in Your gearshifter points is too wide, then this can cause crunching of the gears too.
as You are trying to engage a gear before the clutch is activated...  [I've had that problem too]

I hope this helps..  Have You replaced all the vacuum hoses?
its difficult to tell if there are any cracks in the original cotton covered  hose.
I use a truck air hose, but replace it every few years.  and the small 3.5mm hose needs to be a good quality vacuum hose.

I hope this helps..

cheers

Lee Noonan in Australia