Flex Plate Tool

[Achilles]

Hi guys I know this was probably addressed on the old forums but alas that knowledge is lost for the time being.

I'm in the process of finishing the rebuild on my 1600 SP Type 1 engine, and I'm getting to the part where I have to torque down the gland nut that holds the flex plate (drive plate) to the crankshaft.

Does anyone have a description and or some pics of a tool they ginned up to hold the flex plate while doing this job?  I've seen the pics of that gizmo in the Bentley manual and 1) I don't have access to one and 2) it'd be a challenge to fab something like that.

Thanks,
Larry

[volkenstein]

Achilles,
          From the old board, you grab a sacrificial engine pulley and weld a 4 foot or longer length of 2" X 2" Angle or box section to it.
I'd also sand the pulley ID for a not so tight fit. Bung it on the motor and heave away with a torque wrench. Pull it off and re-fit your good pulley.

          A second way. I read about this for undoing the nut, it would work for doing it up. Pull a plug from 3/4 side. Bring the motor halfway to TDC on the compression stoke for the cylinder. Feed in 1/4" diameter rope, as much as possible, leave the end hanging out.
As you torque the nut up, the motor will mechanically lock against the rope in the cylinder. Pull out rope when done!
Naturally, you'll somehow be steadying the engine so it won't flip over!

I feel a little uncomfortable with the second method as it's the bearings and rods etc etc which get a dose of 250 ft/lbs, not the flexplate (as per the VW tool) or crank itself (as per method one). Colour me conservative.....

Regards
Volkenstein

[68autobug]

Here is how i undone the nut and replaced the flexplate...
As Sean said, it wrecked the alloy pulley...


Lee - 68Autobug - Australia -

http://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug

[68autobug]

I haven't actually seen the tool for taking the flexplate off...
I have read that it fits into some of the round holes....
probably the more holes the better...
to stop distortion of the plate...
these flex or bend very easily...
many flexplates are damaged beyond repair when they are taken off an engine
when a manual gearbox is being used...

Lee -

http://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug

[Achilles]

OK folks here's a few pics of what I used:







This is based on what Tom Wilson recommended in his VW Engine rebuild book.

The bottom end looks pretty much like top end; it's a 10mm x 1.5 x 35 mm long bolt, with a 3/4" long piece of 1/2" NPT pipe as a spacer.  That end is lodged between the flex plate and a web of the bell housing, and when torquing the gland nut, is in compression against that web.  The top bolt, shown in the 2nd pic, is a bit longer but still has a 3/4" spacer.

It seemed to work well.  Update 8/08: it would be better to use a thicker piece of metal say 1/4", and perhaps without the perforations.

[68autobug]

Thanks for that

I'll have to make one of those...
probably one of the easiest special tools to make...

I already posted this reply yesterday

but it looks like it has disappeared??

anyone else having problems??

Lee - 68Autobug -

[eraser]

Firstly, yes i know i resurrected this ancient thread,

And i must say thats the cleanest flexplate i have ever seen

As for tools i am currently looking into this myself.

I thought of something like the attached file, what do you think?

Sorry about the crudeness of the drawing but like a piece of bent metal (fairly thick i would expect or perhaps flattened angle iron) that goes into the engine mounting holes and  other side screws into the flex plate.


Reckon this would work?

[68autobug]

I really don't like the rope method

and I would be careful of the two pieces of steel
screwed into the flexplate captivated nuts and the housing..

but maybe they all work....

I liked the flate piece of steel with pipe spacers etc...

but if anything is in the incorrect Spot...
the flexplate can bend...

Maybe One should collect old pulleys that can be used...

LEE

http://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug

[eraser]

Thought i would let you know that i built 2 of those brackets, put them on diagonally i tried using a super duper long ratchet with the 36mm socket on it but it didn't work, i actually went to bunnings (local major hardware store) and grabbed a cheap 1/2" air powered torque gun, Now i only have a fairly small 2.5hp ~110psi compressor, i put the compressor at 90psi and grave it a rattle... left it for a minute... gave it another rattle and off she came, real easy. I have a few pictures of the brackets and so on...

Believe it or not the hardest part i found was figuring how to get the flex plate off the bloody motor.. but after some wd40 and some careful pulling she popped off.

[68autobug]

Good news is great news...

Do You have any manuals on the autostick??

Luckily I've had no problems pulling pumps off and removing
flexplates... etc..

but You have to be lucky some times..lol

I've also had My share of bad luck too..

cheers

LEE