Control valve wiring

[68autobug]

I have had a small problem with selecting Drive 1 when driving fast in LOW gear..
it always crunches....  what it seems to be is the gearshifter base needs to be moved slightly
as the contacts aren't being closed properly when pushing the gearshifter forwards..

If I push the gearshifter slowly into Drive 1 from LOW it works correctly...
but a fast shift results in a small crunch...

so you may have the same problem...  Maybe the control valve is still too slow at changing...

which I think may be the problem... I've never tried to fix it as I normally change from LOW into Drive 2..

LEE

PS: speaker wire is a bit small - but shouldn't stop it from working..   Lee

[hercdriver]

Volk,

I think I'm starting figure this out. Power starts out in the fuse box ( fuse #11) / coil, travels to the neutral saftey switch (NSS), to the control valve, and back to the contact in the stick shift. When the stick is depressed it finds a ground and completes the cicuit.

On a side note. The schematics never mention the NSS. Is it possible the NSS is the same thing as the starter cut out switch on the diagram?

Here's what I have under the left rear passenger seat.

[Bookwus]

Hiya Dave,

......The schematics never mention the NSS. Is it possible the NSS is the same thing as the starter cut out switch on the diagram?.....

Same beast, different names.

[volkenstein]

Dave,
       

Power starts out in the fuse box ( fuse #11) / coil, travels to the neutral saftey switch (NSS), to the control valve, and back to the contact in the stick shift. When the stick is depressed it finds a ground and completes the cicuit.

Not really. The NSS disrupts the starter circuit from ign switch to starter if not in neutral. The only relationship to the CV circuit is the fact VW chose to run the gearstick wire to the piggy back fitting on the NSS.

So...Fuse 11/Coil -> CV -> NSS piggyback -> Underseat connector -> Gearstick.

Unfortunately I own a '71 which uses pretty much the same schematic as '68 on and VW changed things in '72. U.S. cars had more electrical gizmos than we got too. My best advice is to forget the rat's nest and find the circuit you wish to work on and fix that. I can't bang on enough about using a test light or a polarity checking light. One step for man, a giant leap blah blah.

One thing....don't leave your ign on. Rip out/find a spare battery, make up some connectors and feed power that way, bypassing the coil.

Have an Orange Bentley? In the electricals, pages F and I are what you want for the CV circuit. F for diagram with pictures, I for actual colours for your '73 but it's a current track diagram.


HTH
Volkenstein

[68autobug]

Now I know what a NSS  = Neutral Start switch
and Yes it makes working out the system a lot harder
with the piggy back wire going to it....

took Me a long time to figure out the extra wire on the neutral start switch.... lol

check that the neutral start switch  plug isn't loose...
that bugged Me for over a year....   lol

best of luck

LEE

PS: Only good thing is the answer is still there somewhere...

[hercdriver]

Lee,
Loose as in the wire was backing off or the NSS was backing out of the transmission?

[volkenstein]

Dave,
        Both! Best to make sure the NSS is done up and that the wiring male/female connectors aren't loose.

Regards
Sean

[68autobug]

I've never seen a loose switch..
but the plug looked like it was pushed on
but the connectors in the plug were just touching the terminals..
so it was itermittant for a long time..
because of the rubber protector around the plug I couldn't tell
whether it was on...

Lee