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Sticking switch....

Started by ASBug, 14 February 2010, 19:54

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ASBug

OK usually I do not post, just observe.  I have had a reccuring problem over the past month - My electro vaccume switch is sticking. Yes, I have checked all the wires.  If I'll take a small screwdriver and thump it lightly it'll work just great.
This always happens when it is COLD and Damp.  It did it yesterday and I thumped it (lightly) and it worked all day long yesterday as well as today.  My theory is that dampness is getting into the electro piston and then freezing.  We are having a nasty Wet and Cold winter in the Deep south (7.5 inches of snow in 7 days... we usually get a dusting once or twice a year!)

Has anyone else had this problem?
Has anyone ever dissasembled the electro unit for repairs?

I have another out of a '69 AS but I have not tested it.

Just checking in and wanting to give a weather report from here in the great white south...
KC
-1972 AS Beetle - original AE 1600DP - Bone stock .
only mod: Empi 8 spokes and 195 60 15 Goodyear's
Hey, it'll do 82 mph - good enough for me and the family.
-1976 VW Automatic Type 2 Westfalia Deluxe - Sage green. 1.8 Type IV.

Bookwus

#1
Hiya KC,

Just a semantics check first.  By "electro vacuume switch" I'm guessing you are referring to the control valve solenoid.



This guy, right?

Before you do anything else check to make sure that the electrical contacts are nice and shiny.  Also check to make sure that the contact closest to the body lip is not touching said body lip.  It's a pretty close clearance there.

The solenoid can be removed from the control valve.  You'll need to remove the control valve assembly from the engine compartment wall.  The four screws (two top ones visible in the picture above) that hold the solenoid to the control valve are typically VERY tight. That's why you need to remove the entire assembly from the engine compartment rather than trying to get the solenoid with the control valve in position.  Further, you'll need to get the largest slotted screwdriver you can find that will fit these screws.  That's so you can apply some torque on the screwhead and not strip out the slot at the same time.

Unscrew each of the screws (once you have them broken loose) about 3 or 4 turns.  There is a spring located between the solenoid and the control valve body.  Easing all four screws off will prevent that spring from going flying.  Once you have the solenoid off check it for function by hotwiring it from your battery.  Observe the plunger action.  You might also want to take a peek inside the control valve and make sure that your main valve disc is in good operating shape.

Replacing the solenoid if it is not in satisfactory operating condition is the way to go.  These solenoids are actually pretty healthy little beasts.  I've only had one go bad in all the years I've messed with AutoSticks.  So pulling the solenoid out of your 69 sounds like the way to go to me. I'm not sure that the original unit can be repaired - economically.  But that's something you might want to check out.
Mike

1970 AS Bug

ASBug

Quote from: Bookwus on 14 February 2010, 21:00
Hiya KC,

Just a semantics check first.  By "electro vacuume switch" I'm guessing you are referring to the control valve solenoid.



This guy, right?


B-I-N-G-O
I had this little dandy appart when I pulled the engine about 2.5 yrs ago.  It was functional, but dirty so I cleaned it.
I have cleaned all the connectors from the shifter back and I have a good Ohms all the way back.  It litterally is just sticking.  I am thinking that the little jobbie has some moisture in it and that is freezing it.  Like I said, if it sits, then it freezes.  If I use it semi regularly then it stays freed up.

Thanks for the confirmation of my supicions.
More snow scheduled for tonight!!!
KC
-1972 AS Beetle - original AE 1600DP - Bone stock .
only mod: Empi 8 spokes and 195 60 15 Goodyear's
Hey, it'll do 82 mph - good enough for me and the family.
-1976 VW Automatic Type 2 Westfalia Deluxe - Sage green. 1.8 Type IV.

singlecab61

Quote from: ASBug on 14 February 2010, 19:54

Has anyone ever disassembled the electro-unit for repairs?


I have! I took off the original working one, thinking it was causing one of my original shifting issues (it wasn't), and installed a newer one with less miles on it. The new one didn't work at all! I ended up having to disassemble the new one to unstick the rubber "puck" inside that the solenoid pushes against. It is very simple, just make sure you don't lose the little screws!

Turned out my actual issue was a smoked 1st gear (mid range) syncronizer inside the tranny itself. Had to replace the tranny! >:(
1956 Rag Top Oval (Dad's)
1961 Single Cab (Mine)
1961 Single Cab (Lil Bro's)
1969 Auto-Stick Bug (Mine)

"If it has wheels or a motor, IT NEEDS MORE POWER!"-Tim Allen.

volkenstein

KC,
    If you mean the solenoid itself (not just the CV in total) then the answer is yes. Mike sent me one to try my luck with, and after a s**tload of careful surgery I managed to get it mostly apart.

Once you do, the news is all bad. These are a sealed unit and as such do not lend themselves to re-assembly.

What can you do?

As Mike and Evan have suggested you can take the solenoid off the CV. Once you've done that I reckon you could try to stand it upright (electrical terminals UP), use something to hold the actuating "pin" upright and try and drain any moisture. Alternatively, rig up a suction pipe via an air compressor (clear vinyl tubing strategically placed over a normal blow tip) and try and suck the moisture out.

One other thing to do is to run RTV or somesuch around the "cap" where the steel body tapers down to the part that the electrical connections are on.

Maybe some (teensy) Permatex aviation/Gasgacinch around the OUTER mounting face when you put it back together?

Or spring for a used CV/Solenoid unit ;D

Lastly interestingly enough, this problem was mentioned by a guy who had real issues with the A-S and this one was of them. He was a former VW Canada tech back in the day...

And in reply to your other post....damn hard trying to find a linear solenoid that is dimensionally correct. The thought crossed my mind a while ago and I searched (interweb only) and came up somewhat empty handed.


Enjoy
Volkenstein
'71 RHD A-S Super - "Klaus"

68autobug


Hi
Freezing weather

something We usually don't have to bother about...
down here in AUstralia....
at least not that cold....    YIKES...

I would think that after using the car , and the engine bay getting hot
it would work OK...

cheers

LEE Noonan   in  Hot summer time down here...





Quote from: ASBug on 15 February 2010, 01:13
Quote from: Bookwus on 14 February 2010, 21:00
Hiya KC,

Just a semantics check first.  By "electro vacuume switch" I'm guessing you are referring to the control valve solenoid.



This guy, right?


B-I-N-G-O
I had this little dandy appart when I pulled the engine about 2.5 yrs ago.  It was functional, but dirty so I cleaned it.
I have cleaned all the connectors from the shifter back and I have a good Ohms all the way back.  It litterally is just sticking.  I am thinking that the little jobbie has some moisture in it and that is freezing it.  Like I said, if it sits, then it freezes.  If I use it semi regularly then it stays freed up.

Thanks for the confirmation of my supicions.
More snow scheduled for tonight!!!
KC
-- Helping keep Autostick beetles on the road --
   -1968 Silver metallic 1600 single port Beetle - with BOSCH  SVDA and new BROSOL H30/31 carburetor with GENIE Extractor exhaust system with a quiet thunderbird muffler

http://photobucket.com/68autobug