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change in c lutch timing

Started by Jeff54Griffin, 01 April 2012, 23:31

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Jeff54Griffin

New issue-  Is it possible that when I started using the distributer vac port that it would effect the clutch timing.  Ever since I changed out my 009 for my 205p with vacuum the clutch release has been SSSSLLLLLLLLOOOOOOOOOOWWWWWWWWW.
10 TO 15 seconds.  would the two vacuum  ports being used at the same time slow down the controller??  In or out to shorten release time? Or should I be looking for something else. :o

Got the banjo leak fixed, installed a new backup electric fuel pump, and new mechanical pump.  So once I get the clutch timing right again I am going to see if the "tennis ball" works to provide more cooling air to the engine.
Jeff

71superAS

Check your servo adjuster screw. How many threads do you have exposed? You may need to adjust this.

68autobug

Hi Jeff
Did You change the control valve adjuster at all??
I had adjusted Mine trying to slow down the servo speed..
as I was using the incorrect vacuum port on My carburetor that had way too much vacuum
the clutch servo used to thump into gearll
so, when I fitted the correct port on mY carby,
I found the control valve was too slow..
I had to screw the adjuster screw anti-clockwise [screw it out]
this is usually done in 1/4 turn a time...

try this- take the small hose off the carby and control valve and check how long it takes to operate.
My Hose came off My carby port a couple of times and when You change gear
the clutch servo doesn't release the clutch for about 4-5 seconds
which seems a lot longer than that when You have just entered into traffic on a highway...lol
because the control valve isn't receiving any signal from the carburetor [vacuum]

so, 10 -15 seconds is a lifetime on a highway...
I'm thinking Your small hose is sucking in?? or blocked??
is it the thick vacuum hose??  and is it new?
I change mine about every year or so.. lol
I doubt that by adjusting the control valve adjuster You could never get to 12 seconds???

see how You go...  4-5 seconds is a long time to engage a gear so 12-15 seconds is really undriveable..

Lee in Australia




-- Helping keep Autostick beetles on the road --
   -1968 Silver metallic 1600 single port Beetle - with BOSCH  SVDA and new BROSOL H30/31 carburetor with GENIE Extractor exhaust system with a quiet thunderbird muffler

http://photobucket.com/68autobug

Jeff54Griffin

Update- 8 seconds and all I did is start using the vac port for vac advance distributer along with the control valve port.  Yes, they were the correct ports.  I replaced all of the rubber and no change.
Then I adjusted the control valve counterclockwise 1/2 turn and it went back to normal. 

Had NO idea that it could change that much by using both vac ports, dist. and control valve, instead of just using the control valve port with the distributer port blocked off!!!!  VERY TOUCHY!
thanks,
Jeff
I'm off to see if raising the decklid eliminates the overheating for a long run.

68autobug

HI
Great News Jeff

Some people use a a tennis ball under the engine lid bottom to give more air into the engine bay in early beetles.
this probably does help slightly , but I think its better than nothing,
many early beetles over here have vents welded into the original engine lid like convertibles
with either the early type vertical vents or the 1971 beetle horizontal vents..
this means cutting a hole in the engine lid, welding and re painting..
or using a later type of engine lid and having it painted...

or the popular modification in Australia in Summer is the hood jacks in which You can take Your lid off and open the top
about 2-3 inches and refit in 10-20 seconds .. many people use dipsticks as hinge pins.. as they can be pulled out and replaced in seconds..  I use bolts, but the dipsticks would be better..

or the alloy hood openers which are bolted to the car and opens the top portion again,
both these really pull in the air as it flows across the roof of the car.. like forced cooler air..

the last accessory is sold by many VW parts shops in the USA.. Not sure what they are called.. but they are alloy and go between the engine lid hinges...  the engine lid springs don;t work with either of these modifications..
I carry a piece of round dowel to hold the engine lid up.. lol
You can also stick screw drivers in the holes near the hinges to hold up the lid.. to check the oil etc....

but these really make a difference..  and either aren't expensive... the hood jacks are made here in Australia
I don't know if they are available in the USA now..  the idea came from over there...
My Son actually made His own hood jacks... but He's a welder and spray painter.. lol

be interesting to see how the tennis ball goes.. I always thought they were to give large carburetors more air...
as they are used on drag racing beetles in Australia..  and makes them look standard.. [no opening deck lids///lol]

cheers

LEE



-- Helping keep Autostick beetles on the road --
   -1968 Silver metallic 1600 single port Beetle - with BOSCH  SVDA and new BROSOL H30/31 carburetor with GENIE Extractor exhaust system with a quiet thunderbird muffler

http://photobucket.com/68autobug

Jeff54Griffin

Thanks Lee,
The hood jacks would be great for me but my wife (her car) hates them, says the car (decklid) looks broken in the pics I showed her.

What I would really like to find is a bonnet wide scoop to, as you suggest, really drive the air in.  I've seen them here before but haven't found a pic yet.

Jeff

CarlIseminger

I think these engine lids were only available for a short time on Beetles delivered to California to deal with the heat generated by the extra emission devices, but these bugs had an engine lid with a "hidden" vent.  It was behind the license plate.  It was thermostatically controlled and opened with the engine got hot.  This would allow more air in to cool the engine.  Maybe this might be a solution so as not to see the off set hinges.

Raymond73

Found an engine lid on The Samba that looks like it matches the description above.  http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1238231
'70 AS, 30 PICT-3

Jeff54Griffin

Thanks,
I ordered the same type decklid just now.  Thanks for the help!
My wife even likes it!!
Jeff

68autobug

Quote from: Jeff54Griffin on 04 April 2012, 15:48
Thanks Lee,
The hood jacks would be great for me but my wife (her car) hates them, says the car (decklid) looks broken in the pics I showed her.

What I would really like to find is a bonnet wide scoop to, as you suggest, really drive the air in.  I've seen them here before but haven't found a pic yet.

Jeff

Hi Jeff
Yes, people are always telling Me My engine lid is falling off..lol
and the fiberglass scoop.. Yes, I have a new one in My shed, fellow I bought if off many years ago wanted to give Me the moulds to make them..lol
There are still a few of those about over here mainly on older cars.. late 60s

and the engine lid with the extra vent was on Beetles sold in Australia in 1976-77 they were NOT supers..
not a lot were sold so they are rare..  I cannot see that they would make any difference considering the size of the 4 vents already there...  IMHO..  good buy though..  that was the first part I bought For My beetle long before it was on the road or painted..
it did not have any license plate holes.. so it was one of the hardest things to do.. drill the holes.. and straight..  lol
and no scratching the new paint..lol
I'm positive that will fix Your over heating..  in the UK they sell a black plastic piece that fits over the 4 vents to stop any water getting in as it rains all the time over there.. lol  but it would stop all the hot air getting out when You have parked and stopped..

cheers

LEE in Australia

-- Helping keep Autostick beetles on the road --
   -1968 Silver metallic 1600 single port Beetle - with BOSCH  SVDA and new BROSOL H30/31 carburetor with GENIE Extractor exhaust system with a quiet thunderbird muffler

http://photobucket.com/68autobug