Ive broken it again

[AUTO]

I had the engine out to renew a leaking crankshaft oil seal but when the engine
was back in again those little torque converter to flexi plate bolts got cross threaded
so i had them out again re-taped them and put them back in with locktite
i took it for a run lastnight and one came lose and fell out so today i tryed removing the
other bolts and one of the captive nuts is spining so im going to atempt to pull the
engine out with the torque converter still on,
the exhaust is off, is there enough room to pull it to clear the bell housing ?
i do have another flexy plate and converter any tips most welcome 
     

[68autobug]

Hi
I did exactly the same thing in My beetle...

Don't use locktite...  lol

You can take the engine out of a beetle with the flexplate attached to the torque converter
as many people don't know about the T/C bolts...
it just leaves a mess of ATF on the garage floor..

I thought about the problem for days...
trying to figure out How to undo that bolt and captive nut...
I never did find a way how to...

so it looks like you have to take the torque converter out with the engine..

best of Luck

Lee

[tmea]

Dremel with a cutting wheel and grinder might be able to fit through the slot in the housing. Tough problem. Let us know how it goes.

Tom

[Bookwus]

Hiya Phil,

We recently had another forum member remove the engine and transaxle together.

It wasn't easy, but he did get it done.  So, I imagine it is do-able as long as you curse and swear while doing it.  I'd strip anything off the engine (tin, etc) that might provide a problem with clearancing.  And have some helpers on this one.

FWIW, I have a flexplate in my collection that has heli-coil type inserts installed.  Works well, in fact this was the flexplate I had in my car for the past couple of years.

[AUTO]

Thanks for the advice  every one i will get some help with pulling the engine
and i will make sure to curse and swear while doing it 
i might have a go at welding the captive nut back on and i do have some helicoils
so it might do as a spare
would it be a good idea to remove some weight from the
flexi plate or the nut itself to allow for the weight of the weld ?
thanks again phil

[68autobug]

Hi Phil,

the flexplate needs to be balanced EXACTLY as it spins at some revs...

I have never fixed mine yet..

although I had to have the center piece of the flex plate welded on
as the rivets kept coming loose...
My Son welded all the way around it to make sure it was balanced...
also as the nuts are on the outer edge..

You may need to weld all the nuts..

and then get the plate balanced...  professionally..

I think the captive nuts are sweated on.. not welded...
so they are not really strongly attached...
Not strong enough for Loctite.   

an automatic auto repair shop may be able to repair it for you..

cheers

LEE

[eraser]

Mmm i pulled my motor out with the torque convert on. i tried everythign to get it out without needing to take the rear vallance off but after several hours i just couldnt get iti needed an extra 1CM and i just didnt have it. I ended up grinding the rear off and it came out sweet. Looking back i reckon if you undoo the 4 bolts pull her and actually jack her up so the bottum teeth of the torque converter comes out first then VERRY slowly lower her and pull.. but year i spent 3hrs on it and couldnt do it.


Yeah

[AUTO]

Hi ive done it  thanks eraser for the pic we removed the exhaust rear tinware and fan belt
and got it far enough back with the front engine seal between the bottom pully and the
top pully, the torque converter teeth were just catching on the bell housing but we just
managed to lever them over the edge with a crow bar 
its all back in now and working fine 
Thanks every one

[68autobug]

Hi
What is that tee piece for in the vacuum hose??

good to see you made the rear valance removeable...

You can bolt the original back on
or buy a fiberglass one from John Sherman in QLD

cheers

LEE