Author Topic: Transmission, Starter & Axles - removal, checkup and reinstall  (Read 21989 times)

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Offline jayson.devries

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Re: Transmission, Starter & Axles - removal, checkup and reinstall
« Reply #16 on: 31 January 2011, 02:45 »
My replacement torque converter seal is different than the original.  The original (orange, left) is marked with VW-Audi and part #001 301 083 B - the replacement is NAK and the same part number.  Besides the fact that they are made from different types of rubbers (I'm betting the VW one is neoprene and better quality), the structure of the rubber is slightly different.  It's a bit hard to tell in the pictures, but the shoulder on the NAK is all rubber where the outer shoulder on the VW is part of the metal ring.  This makes the NAK a bit more pliable.  I'm not sure if this is a good thing or not.  Also, the inner lip on the NAK is a bit wider.  All diameters measure the same so I'm sure the part will work, but whether it'll hold up like the original has yet to be seen.


http://picasaweb.google.com/jayson.devries/1973VolkswagenSuperBeetle#5568154428790352290


http://picasaweb.google.com/jayson.devries/1973VolkswagenSuperBeetle#5568154429257363010


http://picasaweb.google.com/jayson.devries/1973VolkswagenSuperBeetle#5568154431860349394


http://picasaweb.google.com/jayson.devries/1973VolkswagenSuperBeetle#5568154440057345282
1973 1303 Autostick
1984 930
1985 Iltis

Offline 68autobug

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Re: Transmission, Starter & Axles - removal, checkup and reinstall
« Reply #17 on: 31 January 2011, 11:42 »


Well Jayson,
You make colored/painted parts look bad after You have polished them...
and pulled the starter motor apart....!!   YIKES...
I have two spares I can work on....
I may polish them and paint them with clear paint...!!

Excellent photos too....
those axle parts look great too....
Your locking tabs look plastic where as mine are steel...

If I ever take My bottom plate off I will get a plug put into it...
as mine has NONE...
I may get it done to one of the spares...

Great work Jayson...

If You ever need a starter motor pinion....
a company in Australia usually has them on ebay all the time...
One of Mine is just about worn out....
I believe it was from a fully automatic type 2 -3 or 4...??

LEE


-- Helping keep Autostick beetles on the road --
   -1968 Silver metallic 1600 single port Beetle - with BOSCH  SVDA and new BROSOL H30/31 carburetor with GENIE Extractor exhaust system with a quiet thunderbird muffler

http://photobucket.com/68autobug

Offline 68autobug

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Re: Transmission, Starter & Axles - removal, checkup and reinstall
« Reply #18 on: 31 January 2011, 11:47 »

Hi
I forgot about the torque converter oil seals...
The 083B seal is a smidgen smaller id than the early 083 seals... [a smidgen is very small]
I took a newish red seal out of a spare gearbox and it was a slightly different shape to the originals...
same id and OD....
so long as the seals are lubricated with ATF when installed they should both last a long time...
The original VW ones were Red or black....

cheers

LEE



-- Helping keep Autostick beetles on the road --
   -1968 Silver metallic 1600 single port Beetle - with BOSCH  SVDA and new BROSOL H30/31 carburetor with GENIE Extractor exhaust system with a quiet thunderbird muffler

http://photobucket.com/68autobug

Offline jayson.devries

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Re: Transmission, Starter & Axles - removal, checkup and reinstall
« Reply #19 on: 02 February 2011, 01:11 »
Lee, here's a pic of the flip side of my pan.  You can see VW welded on a sturdy chunk to support the threads.  You could certainly do something similar by welding a nut to the inside.


http://picasaweb.google.com/jayson.devries/1973VolkswagenSuperBeetle#5568876960094104130

When I first saw the drain plug I was surprised at how large it was.  Maybe because they wanted to still keep it a 17mm hex.  To give you an idea of the size, the copper crush ring is about 24mm ID.

My OEM plug is non-magnetic (maybe it was magnetic at some point but it's not anymore).  I'm considering sticking a rare-earth magnet to the outside (up inside the 17mm hole).  I don't think it'll fall off and it should magnetize the whole plug (and likely part of the pan) and help to pick up any nasties in the oil.
1973 1303 Autostick
1984 930
1985 Iltis

Offline jayson.devries

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Re: Transmission, Starter & Axles - removal, checkup and reinstall
« Reply #20 on: 02 February 2011, 01:23 »
On the weekend I screwed out the neutral switch, peaked inside and didn't like what I saw - there was some kind of gritty crud on the shift lever.  I found myself once again muttering the phrase "while I'm at it I might as well..."  So I removed the shift lever housing to find a lot more gunk/grit puddled on the bottom.


http://picasaweb.google.com/jayson.devries/1973VolkswagenSuperBeetle#5568537506670329906


http://picasaweb.google.com/jayson.devries/1973VolkswagenSuperBeetle#5568537510363445778


http://picasaweb.google.com/jayson.devries/1973VolkswagenSuperBeetle#5568537508348663426


http://picasaweb.google.com/jayson.devries/1973VolkswagenSuperBeetle#5568537519116745250


http://picasaweb.google.com/jayson.devries/1973VolkswagenSuperBeetle#5568537522819634178


http://picasaweb.google.com/jayson.devries/1973VolkswagenSuperBeetle#5568537656450501762

Although the grit looks a bit like sand it's not as hard (which was a bit of a relief).  The grit won't stick to a magnet - in fact, it looks similar to the "shellac" buildup you'd find at the bottom of an old gas tank.  I guess it could be some kind of breakdown/buildup of the gear oil, or some kind of contamination, or maybe even something that found it's way down through the vent hole.  So I don't know what it is or where it came from but I do know I gotta get it outta there.

I didn't see any trace of this gunk around the differential but I'm guessing the gear cluster housing could be hiding some too.  So I've now gotta decide if I want to turn off the pinion retaining nut, press out the gear cluster and flush that housing too - I'm not to keen on going that far.  Hmmm, but that would make it easier for me to replace the main drive shaft seal.  I think I need to sleep on it.
1973 1303 Autostick
1984 930
1985 Iltis

Offline 68autobug

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Re: Transmission, Starter & Axles - removal, checkup and reinstall
« Reply #21 on: 02 February 2011, 05:50 »

Excellent pics again Jayson...
all the differentials I have looked at look were very clean...
I suppose they should be sloshing all that oil around...

well I haven't looked inside my neutral switch hole.... lol

but I have replaced the bush and seal on the shaft right at the end....

I don't know where I would get a 17mm nut and thread like that..???

I have the fan shroud off My engine at the moment... but its 42.8C degrees outside...
and 25C inside the house..... so, naturally I don't feel like going outside....  lol

cheers

LEE




-- Helping keep Autostick beetles on the road --
   -1968 Silver metallic 1600 single port Beetle - with BOSCH  SVDA and new BROSOL H30/31 carburetor with GENIE Extractor exhaust system with a quiet thunderbird muffler

http://photobucket.com/68autobug

Offline jayson.devries

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Re: Transmission, Starter & Axles - removal, checkup and reinstall
« Reply #22 on: 02 February 2011, 21:04 »
I think I'd take 40C right now - last night was -17C (-20C with windchill), actually one of the warmer days we've had this week.  Luckily I have a heated garage.

As followup on the "magnet in the drain plug" idea - it doesn't work.  I tried it with a very strong magnet (rare earth), filing it to 17mm hex to fit snugly in the hole.  Turns out that the plug acts as a shield and very little of the magnetic field actually gets through to the inside of the plug.  Kinda surprising but also kinda makes sense.  I had to break the magnet up in to little pieces in order to get it out.

Maybe I'll try to magnetize the whole plug.
« Last Edit: 02 February 2011, 21:12 by jayson.devries »
1973 1303 Autostick
1984 930
1985 Iltis

Offline jayson.devries

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Re: Transmission, Starter & Axles - removal, checkup and reinstall
« Reply #23 on: 02 February 2011, 21:10 »
I'm still unsure of the source of the crud in my shift lever housing but I think it's isolated to that area.  I removed the oil fill plug and peaked in the gear housing and it all looked pretty clean ... so I don't plan to open it up.

My shift lever (I guess I should call it a "hockey stick" 'cause I am from Canada eh) doesn't look so good though.  It's corroded and very worn where it contacts the neutral safety switch.  I guess I should have been tipped off by the fact that the previous owner had the wires shorted together, bypassing the switch.  So now I'm hunting for a replacement hockey stick.  By the looks of the corrosion I'd better replace the shaft seal while I'm at it.


http://picasaweb.google.com/jayson.devries/1973VolkswagenSuperBeetle#5569179525584833250


http://picasaweb.google.com/jayson.devries/1973VolkswagenSuperBeetle#5569179534035080802
1973 1303 Autostick
1984 930
1985 Iltis

Offline jayson.devries

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Re: Transmission, Starter & Axles - removal, checkup and reinstall
« Reply #24 on: 02 February 2011, 21:33 »
Some days I feel like I'm taking one step forward and two back on this transmission job... but I did make good progress on the starter. 

It's been cleaned, painted, greased, sealed and ready for install.


http://picasaweb.google.com/jayson.devries/1973VolkswagenSuperBeetle#5568537222524650322


http://picasaweb.google.com/jayson.devries/1973VolkswagenSuperBeetle#5568537227341463218
1973 1303 Autostick
1984 930
1985 Iltis

Offline 68autobug

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Re: Transmission, Starter & Axles - removal, checkup and reinstall
« Reply #25 on: 03 February 2011, 13:30 »

EXCELLENT WORK AS USUAL JAYSON....
great photographs too..

I haven't taken any of My starters apart as yet..
I have two spares so maybe I should pull one apart..
the one with the worn pinion....
I think its slightly longer than the other two,,,
and they are all painted black... maybe a nice metallic color would be better... lol

I like all My bits to be clean and painted...
I have noticed that many beetle owners don't bother with keeping their engine either clean
or clean with a lot of paint missing...  or both... lol

but I keep all MY engines [non VW] clean...  but don't paint them... lol

keep up the excellent work Jayson

Do You think the pitting on the hockey stick would stop the neutral switch from working???
The standard manual bushing and seal fit on the end... CIP1..

cheers

Lee in Australia...   40.5C today.... lol  [outside]


-- Helping keep Autostick beetles on the road --
   -1968 Silver metallic 1600 single port Beetle - with BOSCH  SVDA and new BROSOL H30/31 carburetor with GENIE Extractor exhaust system with a quiet thunderbird muffler

http://photobucket.com/68autobug

Offline Detroit68

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Jason - Great work love your pictures ... I just got into my Auto stick transmission its intalled but i dont know if i have all the external parts or if there hooked up correctly to work ( mine grinds and does not go in to gear ). Have you started to hooks your back up ? do you have pictures of it ? i really am looking for pictures on one that is wired and hooked up the correct way , Thanks.

Offline jayson.devries

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Hey Detroit68,

I haven't yet reinstalled my trans.  Been chasing other distractions.

From my limited experience I've seen a few different wiring configurations depending on the model/year and/or country.

The earlier models (late 60s) had two ATF temp senders and a temp switch to choose between the two.  Then they had later models (early 70s?) with only one temp sender (and of course no need for a switch).  And I know they also had some without any temp senders (like mine) where the hole is plugged, see pic below (so no wire and no ATF light on the speedo).


https://picasaweb.google.com/jayson.devries/1973VolkswagenSuperBeetle#5596588586944925746

I believe all had a neutral safety switch (??).  And I've heard some countries didn't have a reverse switch.

From your handle I'm guessing your autostick is a 1968 US model - so I bet it has ALL the switches: two temp senders, a temp switch, a neutral safety switch and a reverse switch.

I'll post in the Technical section all the electrical diagrams that I have - once I do I'll update this thread with a link.

Good luck!


======
Updated
A few electrical diagrams here: http://www.vwar.org/forum/index.php?topic=1214.0
« Last Edit: 17 April 2011, 22:04 by jayson.devries »
1973 1303 Autostick
1984 930
1985 Iltis

Offline jayson.devries

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So lately I've been somewhat negligent in making progress on my autostick.  I've been distracted by other tasks including redoing my rear suspension and brakes.  It was yet another one of those, while I've got thing apart I might as well...

So new bushings, brakes, bearings, seals, dampers, paint....


https://picasaweb.google.com/jayson.devries/1973VolkswagenSuperBeetle#5596562491385686626

I'm also building a new 1600cc.  My old engine was a 1300cc with double heat risers.  My new exhaust has single risers so I needed a different intake manifold.  I bought a new manual manifold and added the 13mm vacuum port (a piece of thin wall 1/2" brass tube).  I don't have welding equipment so I went with JB Weld - seems to have worked fine.


https://picasaweb.google.com/jayson.devries/1973VolkswagenSuperBeetle#5586559001527420322


https://picasaweb.google.com/jayson.devries/1973VolkswagenSuperBeetle#5586559001606236274


https://picasaweb.google.com/jayson.devries/1973VolkswagenSuperBeetle#5586559003842164306

1973 1303 Autostick
1984 930
1985 Iltis

Offline jayson.devries

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Back to the trans...

I sealed up and sandblasted the case with 00 media.  I didn't have a cabinet so I built one.  It retains the sand and keeps much of the dust down.  After using it for a bit I've got lots of ideas for improvements and plan to make a better one with vacuum dust collection.


https://picasaweb.google.com/jayson.devries/1973VolkswagenSuperBeetle#5572422858831316642

I replaced the old warn-out hockey stick with a used one that is slightly less warn:


https://picasaweb.google.com/jayson.devries/1973VolkswagenSuperBeetle#5596639246246416482

...and a used nose cone with new gasket, seal and bushing:


https://picasaweb.google.com/jayson.devries/1973VolkswagenSuperBeetle#5596602306620801778

With the replacement nose cone I had to cut a pin out from inside.

Discussion thread: http://www.vwar.org/forum/index.php?topic=1182.0


https://picasaweb.google.com/jayson.devries/1973VolkswagenSuperBeetle#5578544211275607570

I replaced the axle flange seals and reinstalled the flanges:


https://picasaweb.google.com/jayson.devries/1973VolkswagenSuperBeetle#5596602315823290754

I also had quite an adventure replacing the input shaft seal.

Discussion thread: http://www.vwar.org/forum/index.php?topic=1160.0


https://picasaweb.google.com/jayson.devries/1973VolkswagenSuperBeetle#5596562493040130946

Now finally installing a new clutch and throwout bearing:


https://picasaweb.google.com/jayson.devries/1973VolkswagenSuperBeetle#5596602312597608034

1973 1303 Autostick
1984 930
1985 Iltis

 

anything