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Help, help D:

Started by 71superAS, 05 March 2012, 22:04

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71superAS

I have the knob unthreaded from the car. I will take a picture of it and attach.

I see some broken wire inside the knob, that's what I don't know how to open up.

68autobug

#16
Quote from: 71superAS on 19 March 2012, 23:47
I have the knob unthreaded from the car. I will take a picture of it and attach.

I see some broken wire inside the knob, that's what I don't know how to open up.
[/quote




Hi
You place a spanner on the top long piece [has flats on either side]
while You place a spanner on the top nut  and loosen the top piece..
then unscrew the top piece..
there is a hole for the wire to go thru..

You can desolder the point part with the wire soldered to it..
and resolder a new wire to it...
use a wire at least the size of the original or slightly larger...
there is a ball bearing and spring in the long piece
the gearlever is only made to move forwards and backwards..
so the top piece has to have the flats on the sides

I have seen the autostick shifters in cars that are manual.
I believe these were autosticks and made into manuals, but instead of replacing
the gearlever they just tighten it up so it doesn't move..
and that makes the used gearshifters rare...

cheers

LEE





]
-- Helping keep Autostick beetles on the road --
   -1968 Silver metallic 1600 single port Beetle - with BOSCH  SVDA and new BROSOL H30/31 carburetor with GENIE Extractor exhaust system with a quiet thunderbird muffler

http://photobucket.com/68autobug

71superAS

Ahhh, this is exactly what I was looking for!! Which manual was this in?

71superAS

Well, I have the wire and contact replaced. Now it appears I can get it into gear. One curious thing is that I can't get it out of gear without shutting the car off. The shifter won't move into neutral with any reasonable amount of force. I am going to disassemble the whole shifter column to see if the bushing is shot.

Also, when I put it into reverse, it squeals. I will record it and upload it for people to hear if this makes no sense. Squeals until I shut the car off in reverse. If anyone is around and can give me guidance, I can work on this for the next 12 hours today, so any thoughts posted ASAP would be swell.

Thanks as always for all your help everyone! :D
Patrick

71superAS

Ok, just took it down off the stands and tested. I can get it into reverse instantly, no issues [just that horrible squealing]. Drives great! ...can't disengage the gear. I shut it down, disengage the gear while turned off. Start it up! Fires up great :D Put it into first! It's back to the car I know and love. ...can't disengage it again. :( Shut it off. Disengage while off.

Has anyone ever heard of this?

71superAS

Alrighty, I got the gear shifting solved. Runs like a top again. But that squealing happens if I put the car into reverse for a short bit of time. It also happened after I had parked the car and taken it out of gear. In neutral, when I clicked the key off, it squealed for the last couple cycles of the engine it seemed. Does not make this sound while in gear and driving.

Any ideas?   :o

volkenstein

'71,
     Sure it isn't coming from the CV? Mine admittedly never did this, but a "duck fart" sound is what some others have reported. Left over vacuum etc..Engine going,no probs.


Volkenstein
'71 RHD A-S Super - "Klaus"

68autobug

Quote from: 71superAS on 31 March 2012, 21:54
Alrighty, I got the gear shifting solved. Runs like a top again. But that squealing happens if I put the car into reverse for a short bit of time. It also happened after I had parked the car and taken it out of gear. In neutral, when I clicked the key off, it squealed for the last couple cycles of the engine it seemed. Does not make this sound while in gear and driving.

Any ideas?   :o

Hi Guys

well, My car used to make this sound when I let go of the gear lever, as I had too much vacuum from the carburetor
that caused the control valve to work VERY fast... clutch servo in or out Very fast--  hence the duck noise..
but everything still worked...  vacuum tank still held vacuum - could change gears etc...

so, I'm also guessing its the control valve not working correctly...
BUT why its releasing the vacuum when You turn the key off is very odd??
the control valve has power from the ignition, so there is power there all the time   [the ignition is ON]
but it should only work, when the gearshifter is moved forwards or backwards..
so there shouldn't be any -- negative power to the control valve -- unless You have pressure on the gear shifter lever knob
so, if You connected a test lamp to the two terminals of the control valve, the lamp would only light when You moved the gear stick.

But--  maybe You will  find Yours will light when the ignition is turned OFF..???

You should also be able to hear the clutch servo working when You change gears with the ignition ON..
Normally You can do this about 6-8 times..  [You are using vacuum from the vacuum tank..]
this will tell you if You have vacuum in the vacuum tank..
Mine never leaks out.. I can always do that..

the control valve or clutch servo should never make a noise when You turn the ignition OFF or ON.

Lee in Australia



-- Helping keep Autostick beetles on the road --
   -1968 Silver metallic 1600 single port Beetle - with BOSCH  SVDA and new BROSOL H30/31 carburetor with GENIE Extractor exhaust system with a quiet thunderbird muffler

http://photobucket.com/68autobug

71superAS

Oh, it is definitely not the duck noise. I get that every once in a while, the farty/quacky sound.

This is squealing cycling with the engine or transaxle. It stopped as soon as the engine stopped.

68autobug

Quote from: 71superAS on 01 April 2012, 14:33
Oh, it is definitely not the duck noise. I get that every once in a while, the farty/quacky sound.

This is squealing cycling with the engine or transaxle. It stopped as soon as the engine stopped.

Apologies
didn't read Your post properly... Re Squealing
I haven't had that one..?
so, it sounds like its either coming from the gearbox or engine
and in unisyn with the engine revolutions?
Your ATF , is it new?  and is it red?
just trying to think what would make a squealing sound..
there is a small needle roller bearing in the clutch part..
I remember because I did renew it and after considerable trouble getting it out...
found there was nothing wrong with it..  lol
but it has a dab of grease in it..   wondering whether it was clutch pilot bearing?
sounds like somthing is dry and it shouldn't be..  [should be lubricated]>>
also, does it make the noise when driving or ONLY in Neutral and reverse??
Have You had the ATF pump off?  was it scored??

cheers

LEE

-- Helping keep Autostick beetles on the road --
   -1968 Silver metallic 1600 single port Beetle - with BOSCH  SVDA and new BROSOL H30/31 carburetor with GENIE Extractor exhaust system with a quiet thunderbird muffler

http://photobucket.com/68autobug

71superAS

Makes noise when gassing the car in reverse, and it made it in neutral only when I shut the car down, during the time between when I clicked the key to 'off' and the engine stopped entirely.

I will record the sound and put it up on youtube for anyone to hear for themselves.

The ATF is red, no issues there. I did not have the ATF pump off

68autobug


Hi
Well, that is an odd one...
ONLY when You shut the engine down...
or accelerate in REVERSE...
I'm just thinking, I don't turn My engine off in neutral {I don't think]
I know I always have to select neutral to start it at home... lol
although I do turn it off in neutral at times [thinking]

only thing I can think of that squeals is a fan belt..??
so, something is happening at both those times??

LEE


-- Helping keep Autostick beetles on the road --
   -1968 Silver metallic 1600 single port Beetle - with BOSCH  SVDA and new BROSOL H30/31 carburetor with GENIE Extractor exhaust system with a quiet thunderbird muffler

http://photobucket.com/68autobug

martoke

hi,
ive just post re a reverse prob i havemy 71 starts and can get into reverse and all gears there after cant get back into reverese, any way gone through hole string of checks your sounds electrical, check the contact in teh gear stick the wire that leads into the side of the gear stick is soldered on to a contact this can break easy after a time if you first check the contact at the top part of the stick undo the top locking nut and the unscrew the contact shroud there is a spring inside, clean both ends of  the spring and the contact with emmery cloth, then re tightend completely tight and then slack of about half turn back this should give you the required clearance so that when you plac your hand on teh stick shift the micro switch is hit and  if you turn your car on with out starting the engine you should hear the control valve solenoid opening and shuting with clicking at the back, if not unscrew a little further, one thing teh slot that is the top of teh gear stick that the rod  sits in should sit with the length runing front to back
you could also clean the contact conectors on the control valve. im new to this but see how you get on with that.
cheers mart

68autobug

Hi Mart

I may have answered Your question on the other post

re- NO SHIFTING POSSIBLE FOR THE FIRST FEW MINUTES.....

I do believe Your clutch servo needs adjusting..
Once You have reverse sorted out all the other gears are OK..
I think Your clutch is still touching, wearing, when You are trying to get into or out of reverse..

also commented on the gearshifter gap etc..

I hope that helps

cheers

Lee Noonan in Australia..



-- Helping keep Autostick beetles on the road --
   -1968 Silver metallic 1600 single port Beetle - with BOSCH  SVDA and new BROSOL H30/31 carburetor with GENIE Extractor exhaust system with a quiet thunderbird muffler

http://photobucket.com/68autobug

71superAS

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tFEtiVZunIs

There's a recording I just took, sorry about the crummy phone quality. Let me know what you think?