The AS Oil Pump

Started by Bookwus, 12 October 2008, 05:26

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Bookwus

Hiya All,

I'm getting set to convert a brand new AS ready engine into an engine for my Bus.  In the doing I will have to remove the AS oil pump and flexplate and replace them with a standard oil pump and flywheel.  I removed the AS oil pump from my old engine today and as long as I had it out, I snapped this picture......



An exploded view of the A suffix AS oil pump.  Components are:  Inner body at top, divider plate in center, and outer body at the bottom.  Gears and seals appear to the side of the pump component in which they live.

Mike

1970 AS Bug

68autobug



what color are you going to paint it Mike??

Yellow ones work great..

I think My green one worked OK too...lol ;D ;D

its amazing these things are still working 30-40 years after they were made....
with very little if any wear..

Lee

-- Helping keep Autostick beetles on the road --
   -1968 Silver metallic 1600 single port Beetle - with BOSCH  SVDA and new BROSOL H30/31 carburetor with GENIE Extractor exhaust system with a quiet thunderbird muffler

http://photobucket.com/68autobug

68autobug


Here is My nice and clean pump....lol

although the bolt holes in My pumps are the same as later pumps
the screws are very small in size, the threads being at the bottom of the larger
untapped holes... I use the early model gaskets with the small holes..
otherwise the gaskets drop down...
I use allen headed high tensile screws...
one of the originals snapped off when installing the pump.

LEE
-- Helping keep Autostick beetles on the road --
   -1968 Silver metallic 1600 single port Beetle - with BOSCH  SVDA and new BROSOL H30/31 carburetor with GENIE Extractor exhaust system with a quiet thunderbird muffler

http://photobucket.com/68autobug

nlorntson

For the Oil pump, it looks like the paper seals are available in the typical engine seal kit?  I can be the four sealing nuts separately, so what's left are the two black Seals?  Are these o-rings or oil seals or something else?

Hard to justify $25 for a pump rebuild kit for just the two black seals.  Anyone have a measurement of  these?

volkenstein

Nancy,
          I've rebuilt four pumps thus far, and getting "the kit" from EVWParts is much better than trawling aound looking. You get 4 sealing nuts, two seals, and two gaskets. The seals are an ODD size. If you buy them individually you'll either pay through the nose and still need gaskets...

PS. One oilpump kit will fit all, but don't attempt to swap a pump between engine years!!

HTH
Volkenstein
'71 RHD A-S Super - "Klaus"

68autobug

As Sean has said, these small seals are an odd size.
after I restored My beetle I tried to buy some more seals but NLA
I ended up tracing the company that made them and sent emails overseas
The company that made them only sold them on lots of 100...
I found they had a warehouse in the USA  that would sell in packs of 10
wholesale to registered businesses only..  I eventually found a nice VW enthusiast
in Canada who bought them thru the Business he worked for.
They did cost a packet back then plus air freight etc... and I bought two lots of 10
and sold them to autostick owners.. in a few countries..
From memory they cost about $20 a pair?? and that was about 15 years ago..
The gaskets are standard oil pump gaskets available everywhere..

cheers

LEE in Australia

  seals113115219.jpg image by 68autobug 
-- Helping keep Autostick beetles on the road --
   -1968 Silver metallic 1600 single port Beetle - with BOSCH  SVDA and new BROSOL H30/31 carburetor with GENIE Extractor exhaust system with a quiet thunderbird muffler

http://photobucket.com/68autobug

nlorntson

OK I guess I'll go for the kit. 

I have the pump out but the divider piece seems pressed onto the outer cover?  Do I need to remove the allen headed bolt to get the pieces apart or do they just come apart? OR?

Do I need to remove the inlet and output fittings and their sealing washers?

The pump was filthy so it could have been leaking somewhere.

68autobug

hI
the intermediate plate has two locating dowels and usually needs to be seperated with a screw driver.. You can do it near the corners so the sealing surface isn't damaged.
You will need to prize slightly at one corner and then the opposite corner evenly as possible..  so the two dowels just come out the holes fairly parallel ..

If the seals do leak, the sump is usally filled with ATF.. which isn't good for the engine.
As the ATF is under more pressure than the engine oil side of the  pump..

cheers

LEE in Australia



-- Helping keep Autostick beetles on the road --
   -1968 Silver metallic 1600 single port Beetle - with BOSCH  SVDA and new BROSOL H30/31 carburetor with GENIE Extractor exhaust system with a quiet thunderbird muffler

http://photobucket.com/68autobug