Replacing MY Distributor

Started by bowlingbrad, 25 June 2009, 14:30

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bowlingbrad

Does anyone have a good procedure to follow for replacing a distributor?  I am replacing and 009 with an SVDA from aircooled.net.  If you provide the text, I will gladly provide the pictures!

volkenstein

Brad,
      You're better off changing the title to "Replacing MY distibutor". Not being a git or anything, but if what I've read over the years holds true, your engine could well turn out to be like Forrest Gumps box of chocolates. E.g. The distributor drive gear may be "indexed" to suit your 009, or someone put the drive dog 180 Deg out and the plug wires have to run arse about. How about this...to start you off get your engine on TDC on No 1 firing BEFORE you rip anything off. Take pics "in situ" showing timing mark on the pulley. Note the plug wire positions. Then pull the distributor cap off and take a photie of the rotor position and try and include the timing mark on the distributor body.

The fun will start when you actually pull the distributor out. Take a photie of how your distributor drive is oriented in it's hole once the clamp is undone and your old one ripped out.

"Glenn" on Thesamba regularly posts a piccie of the differences between a 009 vs an SVDA/DVDA in respect of where the rotor lines up. Generally a 009 is 90 Deg clockwise for No 1. Meaning...plug wire swapping.

Dropping it in shouldn't be too hard. Sorting the plug wires, hooking it up to the coil (with POINTS, different with LeccyTronnik)then Static Timing to get you going. Warm up and then final adjustment mit der Strobe as per instructions. Actually IIRC AC.net would have fitting instructions? Mike?


Enjoy
Volkenstein
'71 RHD A-S Super - "Klaus"

Bookwus

Hiya Brad,

Sean's right on the money.

Replacing a distributor with another similar model is usually just a "pull it out - put it in" kinda affair.  But since most 009s have a bottom drive cog that is 90* out of line with OEM type distributors (and your aircooled SVDA fits in this category) you will wind up having to move your plug wires around 90* (one position on the distributor cap) to compensate.
Mike

1970 AS Bug

volkenstein

Brad,
       
Quote"Glenn" on Thesamba regularly posts a piccie of the differences between a 009 vs an SVDA/DVDA
.

Which, funnily enough, he's already posted in your thread on TheSamba!!!!

How about I take a hot and sticky photo of "how to" static timing over this W/E?

Regards
Volkenstein
'71 RHD A-S Super - "Klaus"

bowlingbrad

#4
Quote from: volkenstein on 26 June 2009, 09:28
How about I take a hot and sticky photo of "how to" static timing over this W/E?

Can I hold you to it???  ;)

And by the way, I'm getting loads of help from everyone here and the samba.  It is really nice to have a bunch of crazies I mean enthusiasts who are more than willing to assist.

Bookwus

Hiya Brad,

From what I have read so far, I'm thinking that you should....................

1.  Remove your 009, noting the cog/rotor position.
2.  Take the cap (with wires still attached) off the 009 and put it on the SVDA temporarily.
3.  Orient the bottom cog on your SVDA distributor shaft to mimic the position of the 009 bottom cog.  The SVDA rotor however will be 90* out.
3.  Install your SVDA as if it were a 009,  In other words, right back down the hole just like you took out the 009.
4.  Now move the wires one position to compensate for the difference in cog/rotor position.

At that point you should be able to get the engine to turn over and start up but it will not be in time.  You can now carefully switch out the old cap for a new one.  Pull off the wires one by one when you replace them.   You can then use Sean's static timing primer or find a shop with a timing light.
Mike

1970 AS Bug

68autobug

#6
Quote from: volkenstein on 25 June 2009, 15:31
Brad,
     You're better off changing the title to "Replacing MY distributor". The distributor drive gear may be "indexed" to suit your 009, or someone put the drive dog 180 Deg out and the plug wires have to run back to front. How about this...to start you off get your engine on TDC on No 1 firing BEFORE you rip anything off. Take pics "in situ" showing timing mark on the pulley. Note the plug wire positions. Then pull the distributor cap off and take a photie of the rotor position and try and include the timing mark on the distributor body.

The fun will start when you actually pull the distributor out. Take a photo of how your distributor drive is oriented in it's hole once the clamp is undone and your old one ripped out.

"Glenn" on Thesamba regularly posts a piccie of the differences between a 009 vs an SVDA/DVDA in respect of where the rotor lines up. Generally a 009 is 90 Deg clockwise for No 1. Meaning...plug wire swapping.

Dropping it in shouldn't be too hard. Sorting the plug wires, hooking it up to the coil (with POINTS, different with LeccyTronnik)then Static Timing to get you going. Warm up and then final adjustment mit der Strobe as per instructions. Actually IIRC AC.net would have fitting instructions? Mike?


Enjoy
Volkenstein


Just fitted My NEW BOSCH SVDA from aircooled.net in the uS...

took Me a while to get the engine going...

had to look at the instructions....   I thought I could use the old cap and leads....!!

but I had to do some homework on how the SVDA works compared to the 009.
and the ignition timing...
My engine is going the BEST it ever has gone...
Smooth as..  all the time....

LEE

-- Helping keep Autostick beetles on the road --
   -1968 Silver metallic 1600 single port Beetle - with BOSCH  SVDA and new BROSOL H30/31 carburetor with GENIE Extractor exhaust system with a quiet thunderbird muffler

http://photobucket.com/68autobug

68autobug

Hi Guys

I bought a used bosch SVDA dizzy a while back...
I replaced My 009 dizzy with the replacement SVDA dizzy
trying to use the cap the same as it was in the 009...

naturally lol   ??

the engine did not go at all....

I panicked.. lol   and took the SVDA and quickly replaced it for My 009
and the engine went OK....   YIKES...
I panicked...  why won't My engine go... the dizzy cap was the same in the same place...??

well, You do need to do what Sean has said and take notice of everything... lol


I just love My new SVDA from aircooled.net...

I just love driving My beetle... its so smooth....
I could NEVER go back to a 009...

cheers

LEE


-- Helping keep Autostick beetles on the road --
   -1968 Silver metallic 1600 single port Beetle - with BOSCH  SVDA and new BROSOL H30/31 carburetor with GENIE Extractor exhaust system with a quiet thunderbird muffler

http://photobucket.com/68autobug

68autobug


I fitted the Petronix kit to My SVDA a few days ago
and the SVDA doesn't advance like it did with points??

can only get Maximum around 26 degrees...
I have retuned and retuned.... lol

the plastic magnetic ring on the center post is OK...
the pickup is about 3-4mm from the ring instead of 30 thou..??

I'm thinking this the problem...??  its fitted at maximum adjustment ..
so I'm going to slot the slot a bit more...
and see what happens...

LEE


PS: Maybe it would have been worth the money to have the pertronix kit fitted and tested... lol




-- Helping keep Autostick beetles on the road --
   -1968 Silver metallic 1600 single port Beetle - with BOSCH  SVDA and new BROSOL H30/31 carburetor with GENIE Extractor exhaust system with a quiet thunderbird muffler

http://photobucket.com/68autobug

68autobug

Well, I am still using My SVDA distributor with vacuum advance that I bought back in 2011 approx.
from air cooled.net .  It came with points, and worked extremely well, with the vacuum advance cutting in just using one toe...
but the points eventually wore out, as I was adjusting them every few thousand kilometers as the rubbing block wore down.. I then fitted the PERTRONIX kit I bought with the distributor. As it didn't work as an SVDA more like a 009, I contacted the fellow from air cooled.net  He told Me to strip the distributor down in case I had dropped a screw or washer into it but I never found anything.
The vacuum advance didn't work, still doesn't work.... 2017.....   So, it works just like a 009 distributor. If I suck on the hose, with the cap off, I can see the plate advancing.... I probably need a vacuum gauge to see what the vacuum measures... ??
BRASILLIAN WEBER dfv-228
I am using a Brasillian WEBER dfv-228 carburetor which were a replacement carby used in Brasil on VWs plus many other cars. I have just fitted another one of these carburetors that I have been using for many years. This one does have an automatic choke whereas My other one didn't have the [/size]
auto choke.  I did buy a New Brosol "Brasillian made Solex" [ - H30-31  - 117511E] carburetor a few years ago but I couldn't get it to run right.  I never got around to checking the jets in it, as i have read where they can come with all the incorrect jets. They were made in a factory NOT a laboratory... so I've been told... 
One of the locals here actually soldered all the jets up on the twin carburetors He was using and re drilled them to the correct jet sizes for His engine..... I believe the drills were specially made for this purpose..

Lee in Australia... well the 40C degree days have all gone now time to drive My Volkswagen Autostick.
it seems to be going better with this new Brasillian WEBER than before.. I haven't checked anything since fitting this WEBER dfv-228.  Everything on the web I found about this WEBER is in portugese apart from exploded view drawings which did come in handy.  So it seems these Webers are not known about in English speaking countries???

   LEE in Australia



Lee
-- Helping keep Autostick beetles on the road --
   -1968 Silver metallic 1600 single port Beetle - with BOSCH  SVDA and new BROSOL H30/31 carburetor with GENIE Extractor exhaust system with a quiet thunderbird muffler

http://photobucket.com/68autobug