Early transmission wiring 1968-1969

[nlorntson]

I have an early 1969 (Built October 1968) I've been putting together.  This transmission has the two temperature switches and the two-wire control switch.  I understand the later transmissions went to one temperature sensor and deleted the control switch.  Here is a picture of the right side of the transmission where the two wire control switch is aft of the three pronged selector switch:



This switch has two black wires coming off it.  One goes to a fuse holder but I don't know where it heads after leaving the fuse holder, and the other has a spade connector and connects somewhere else.  I only found one side of the fuse holder when I got the car so I cannot tell how long the rest of the wire is.  The wire that does not go to the fuse holder seems long enough to make it into the engine compartment.

I've searched the wiring diagrams in my Blue Bentley, this site, and theSamba but have yet to figure out where these two wires go.

I think I could probably leave them unplugged, but I don't want to.  I want this to be brought back to stock so I'm wanting to know where these plug in?  Who knows where these wires attach?

[nlorntson]

Ug.  I removed the three wires from the plastic plugs to install a new boots and didn't realize the plug and wires have a specific orientation.

Does anyone have a closeup photo of the actual plug with the wires going into the back of it?  I guess I'll need both the front and back of the plug to know the orientation of the wires to the rectangular hole in the center.

Thanks again.

[CarlIseminger]

If I am not mistaken, what you are referring to is the reverse light switch.  The power came from the coil, went to the fuse, went to the transmission and then back to the lights.

[nlorntson]

Carl, you are exactly correct.  I had a closer look at the harness, did some testing with a multi meter and came to that conclusion.  Once I removed the crunchy, hacked up engine tar board, the wiring for the taillights confirmed it.  The engine compartment is now freshened up with new tar board and the transmission is back in.  All three plugs and the two temperature sensors are back in and installed with new boots.  It's a beautiful thing!

I hope to have the engine back in tonight.

One disappointing note, I have been unable to find a place to get new hoses made.  The one place I did find estimated it to be around $125 per hose!  $375 seems unreasonable.

I'm trying to find a second trashed set which I will cut apart and take just the ends in to see if that makes it less scary to the hose builders. 

I've taken dozens of pictures and will post them as soon as I can get them resized and hosted.

[volkenstein]

Nancy,
          125 US per hose??? Ludicrous...Are they selling you Aircraft Quality or what??? 100 psi pressure rating and heat resistance is all you need. I would take them even trashed hoses, so long as the original fittings are there and get them to
make new lines.

Spare me, unless prices have gone bananas lately I would expect Braided hose with serious alloy BLING for that money.

Hit TheSamba classifieds for the hoses/steel lines.


HTH
Volkenstein

[68autobug]

Hi
two wires from the neutral safety switch go from the ignition switch to the starter motor so, it will only start when in neutral..
The other wire comes from the shifter switch to the plug then goes to the control valve in the engine compartment.  its just like a piggy back terminal, many people connect the wire direct, but the wiring diagram shows its connected to ground, so when You are in neutral the control valve would be activated [clutch depressed] but My switch doesn't ground out and none of the other 68 gearbox switches do either,,??
I did read in a Chiltons manual today of the switch and the wire being connected to ground
when in neutral, so You can select gears?? but as soon as You move the gear lever the switch in the gear lever will ground out, putting power to the control valve, and depressing the clutch.  ??

cheers

Lee in Australia