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1st post on vwar, need advise in buying 1st autostick

Started by herbug, 19 March 2013, 13:24

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herbug

This is my 1st post at vwar. I've been looking for a while to buy an autostick for my wife as she has always loved bugs and I've always liked something out of the norm to keep me busy. How much out of the norm and misunderstood VW as an autostick. Ive found one that seems to tick all the boxes, just want to get some honest advice if the asking price is OK. She is asking $6000 for an 1970 1500cc autostick with 7 months rego. Body is apparently rust free, looks good as minimal rust under hood and tiny spots around hood hinges.  Runs real nice shifts smoothly, engine standard, paints OK, currently a daily driver. Here are some images to get your opinions. I live in NSW Australia and these models are relatively hard to find. So what do you think should we jump or not? Were not loaded but happy to pay extra for a good one than for one that needs a complete rebuild.

volkenstein

Herbug,
            6k odd would mean I would be a. Running a magnet over panels looking for bog. b. Having a look at the front spare wheel well for creases (front end hit & repair). Since rust is NOT your friend I would poke 'n' prod everywhere.
Engine and running gear - A 1500 SP is meant to be that, unless the donk has gone west. 30 Pict 2 still on? End play OK?
Trans - grinding etc etc?

Anywaze - aussieveedubbers is the forum for ya...A few of us here are also on that board. 68Autobug is a mod over there & here.


Don't be shy...


Volkenstein
'71 RHD A-S Super - "Klaus"

herbug

We have decided to take the plunge and buy our 1st VW autostick.

She looks pretty good, shifts good, doesn't leak, oil (yet), rust free as far as I can see.

Hoping to find some parts like control servo (just in case) as a spare.

Needs some superficial items changed like door rubbers and door card clips but overall very happy, been driving it for 2 days. Reverse bangs a little getting into gear but not too rough, wife hasn't noticed yet.

Here are some images you may want to check oout, what do you think?

https://plus.google.com/photos/105140577530327983654/albums/5863966957853755825

68autobug

Hi
well, it certainly looks great in the photos..
and the price although seems high to many of us, this car looks to be worth it.
To Me anyway... lol.. looks like its been looked after.. and parts etc replaced..
what Miles is on the speedo?  Only thing I don't like are the pedestrian damaging headlamp
accessories..   When You say banging into reverse, is it a Loud banging noise??
or just crunching going into reverse? 
or just goes into reverse suddenly?
sounds like the clutch adjuster needs a small adjustment to fix reverse crunching..
I always used to crunch going into reverse, but My Wife never ever did... lol
She just felt Her way into reverse slowly... I must have been too fast for the clutch.. lol
but I have adjusted things and don't crunch in reverse now...
If You can get into reverse without crunching, means the clutch is adjusted correctly and You won't have problems with any other gears...
If Your car raises up when put into gear, maybe the engine is revving too high??
or You need new shock absorbers??
Only time I can remember My car doing this was when it was on axle stands [wheels off] when I was changing gearboxes or something..  as I really noticed it moving then... lol
I'll have to watch when My wife drives it again...

cheers

Lee in Scone NSW Australia

http://www.photobucket.com/68autobug




-- Helping keep Autostick beetles on the road --
   -1968 Silver metallic 1600 single port Beetle - with BOSCH  SVDA and new BROSOL H30/31 carburetor with GENIE Extractor exhaust system with a quiet thunderbird muffler

http://photobucket.com/68autobug

volkenstein

Herbug,
            Looks very schmick-o and unmolested to a great degree. 1 thing I don't like is the hose running to the CV. Looks flimsy to me/incorrect. You want re-inforced hose or stiff hydraulic hose.

I see by the plates you (maybe) are somewhere in NSW?

I have a lot of what you need (Lee may have as well), just access to it is limited.

PS. Love the chromy/alloy bling on your decklid vents.

HTH
Volkenstein
'71 RHD A-S Super - "Klaus"

68autobug

Hi Sean

Yes, the large vacuum hose going to the control valve from the inlet manifold, looks to Me like a standard oil Hose.  At least not heater hose which doesn;t last long at all before sucking in..  I did use a good brand of oil hose at one time for a short time without any problems. [that I know of}  lol
I now use air line brake hose as used on semi trailers in Australia and the USA..  Red colored made in USA Hose.

cheers

LEE
-- Helping keep Autostick beetles on the road --
   -1968 Silver metallic 1600 single port Beetle - with BOSCH  SVDA and new BROSOL H30/31 carburetor with GENIE Extractor exhaust system with a quiet thunderbird muffler

http://photobucket.com/68autobug

herbug

Hi guys,

Thanks for your replies and advise. I keep looking for something wrong with the body but still keep finding metal. I'm still getting to know her, especially the mechanical part of the autostick. The car came with 5 different service manuals (Chilton, Hayes, Gregory's, Complete Idiot series, Glenns) with heaps of info to read up on. The car has 190,000 miles. Previous owner spent $3k on repairs, servicing (have receipts) in past 8 months until she got pregnant and needs the money.

Lee, the reverse gear doesn't crunch but kind of thumps into gear and it does raise up slightly, so maybe the carby is reeving too high or the CV needs a slight turn, maybe just a 1/4 turn to start off with. Do you normally turn anti clockwise or clockwise?

Sean, thanks for picking up the CV vacuum hose, I can see it is a oil hose. I'll take your advise and get a reinforced one ASAP. I'll look into the semi trailer vacuum options. I live in Wollongong NSW.

Just one other question, I'm thinking of converting to an alternator as the generator is getting tired and the gen light on the dash is constantly on. Is there any difference to a regular conversion on an Autostick? Are the Chinese copy alts OK, or should I stick with a Bosch (rebuilt?)?

Thanks again guys, any advise is most welcome, I'm very green here but really keen to learn as much as I can and keep such a uniques car as an Autostick on the road.

Regards Guido.




volkenstein

Guido,
          Hmm..well armed with books, just they tend to skim over the semi-auto, particularly the Idiot's guide. Gregory's isn't too bad and the others will get you out of trouble.

The best complete one is the Bentley for your year of car. Blue for early, Orange for late.

A very light "thump" or squatting when put into reverse is common. A teeth rattling "thump" into your forward gears indicartes a problem somewhere. May be accompanied sometimes by a duck fart noise.

Idle should be between 900-950 rpm.

I've done an Alternator Conversion on an Auto-stick and you can read all about it on Aussieveedubbers. Too lazy at the moment to re-find the link. I will say that I would check "where" your Bosch rebuilt one comes from. Mine came from Brazil!
I would have a second car ready to go in case you need parts quickly, and at least a weekend worth of time.
Probably the best bet (although I can imagine the coin involved) is to get a original equipment alternator and use that as a starting point.


HTH
Volkenstein
'71 RHD A-S Super - "Klaus"

herbug

Hi all, Been a while since last post but here are some new images.

Since we've had our bug I have completed the alternator conversion, installed petronix electronic ignition, tidied up some hoses, clamps on fuel lines and had the car at Wayne Penrose for a general check and tune as the timing was out. He was pretty knowlegdable on autosticks with 5 regular customers to his name and a few spares if need be in his shop.
It's shifting a lot smoother now as Wayne adjusted the control valve and fixed a stuck mechanical advance on the dissy.

Overall very happy with it starts first time even on cold mornings, doesn't stall or anything that my wife has trouble wife.

Had some hot start issues by way of not starting after car was warm, driving for about 20 mins. When I would go to restart, there was nothing, no starter turning, clicking nothing. Fitted a hot start relay near starter, cleaned earth, checked and re soldered alternator conversion wiring splice, plus a larger guage b+ to starter wire to get those 90amps direct to the 550CCA battery. Finally starts good when hot or cold. I love a 1st turn start 43 year old car.

One question is it normal for the headlights to brighten when accelerating? I'm getting 12.2v when car idling and 14.3v when at 2000 rpm, Battery is getting a good charge, could it be the contacts a fuse end or earths??

Anyway, thanks again for your time. Here are some new images plus some shots from the Nationals, one of which was a fully auto type 3 light blue bug, very nice and inspiring.

https://plus.google.com/photos/105140577530327983654/albums/5863966957853755825